urnesBeast

Refactory cement is pricey. Wanted to get it right this time. Kitty litter clay does not hold up as a fire pot. Maybe some clays from a pottery studio would

I find myself doing fold forming in steel a fair amount lately. That means I have sheet metal 8x8 that I would like to heat along a line fairly evenly. This seems much like the needs of a knife maker. I was thinking that my next forge could be oval to support this longer heating area. However, for general forging, I would only need a smaller pot. This got me to thinking that I could make an oval firepot with two or three air inlets. Each would have its own electric blower, that way I could make the fire as big or as small as needed for the job. I am likely going to be making the firepot out of refactory cement, so I can cast it in any shape I want. I think it is minimal trouble to add a second pipe and blower. Thoughts? Doug

Christopher, My father is a general contractor, when I told him of this idea he was very concerned that the concrete would get broken up pretty well after a while. "You hammer it to break it up when you are done with it, son." I think this would be a fine plan, but it is tough to argue with a dad... Anyone know how to answer his objection? I am not afraid to overbuild with rebar. This is looking more costly than I expected, I am thinking of just doing half the area, the hot area. That make sense because I would have to pour around the door anyways. It looks like going and buying quickcrete is the right way to purchase cheaply. -Doug

Here are the plans: This is the design I used for the smithy: Great Sheds - With Plans - Popular Mechanics Here are the plans: http://media.popularmechanics.com/do...505shed001.pdf So, I am no engineer (oh wait, I am) but I did this building "Overbuild" it style. The runners are 2x10, and the flooring is heavier duty, the beams are slightly bigger too. I suspect the weight will not be a big deal. -Doug

Christopher, I was thinking of doing this for the fireproofing aspects, it sounds like it will also help with the anvil bounce? I am guessing this provides such a large mass that it is similar to being truly grounded to the earth? I see there are premade wire meshes, is that acceptable, or is real rebar what is needed? I like the idea of the plastic being put down. I was going to do it incase I ever wanted to take the floor out, but this sounds like it would never come out anyways. What is the purpose of the plastic then? -Thanks, Doug

I have recently been playing with the idea of several strategically placed floor jacks. I can crawl under the smithy and install those without much issue. I figure a couple under the anvil will do wonders.

Mark, I have decided against bringing the pillar up all the way to be the anvil stand. I do like the idea of bringing a up some concrete to the floor level. With 16" on center, pressure treated supports under the floor, I think I am limited to that width for the concrete (I was warned against pouring the concrete around the supports for rotting). If I hear you right, you are saying I could take foundation blocks to build up a box, fill it with soil and compact it. Saving on concrete cost and making it bigger. I think that I could wrap the supports in plastic or air gap to make the support box bigger. Thanks! Doug

What do you all think of sinking a pillar in one of those round cardboard tubes through the floor, down below the frost line. This would be my anvil stand also, maybe with about an inch of wood on top of the pillar? Think rebar would be needed in this? Doug

Removing the floor is not an option. The floor of the shed is some 25-30 inches above ground level. The borax fire proofing seems easy enough, I will do that. If I got lucky in the placement of joists and anvil, I might be able to pour a concrete pillar in between them without any joist rotting contact. Thanks! Doug

This is the design I used for the smithy: Great Sheds - With Plans - Popular Mechanics Here are the plans: http://media.popularmechanics.com/documents/PMX0505shed001.pdf I modified the plans such that the 2x6 joists are now 2x10 6x6 timbers are now 4x10 (2 2x10 glued and bolted) Timbers are supported by ten cinderblocks, each on a pillar of cement sunk below frost line Porch is uncovered If I do build a pillar of cement to put the anvil on, I will likely need to pour it around at least one joist. I assume bigger is better. Will I need to sink this below the frost line also? For geographic reference, I am located in Boston. I am liking the idea of the pillar. Already my hanging lights bounce a bit when really going at it. If I understand the other suggestions right, I should cover the floor with cement backer board and put down a tile floor. What about just plain patio pavers with a bit of grout? The dirt floor idea? Thanks, Doug

So do people think pea gravel floor would have a similar problem? Something could get through a few inches of pea gravel. Maybe a real skim coat of cement for fireproofing would help there.

Oh, now I understand the earlier coment about cutting a hole in the floor. The idea is to make a concrete area all the way to the ground for under the anvil! Once I am really solid on where the anvil will live, I think this would be a good solution to a different problem!

How deep do you have the pea gravel? I assume this pretty much means you never need to sweep the smithy again. Does the anvil stand on rest on top of the gravel, or is it buried down to the floor under the gravel?

I built my smithy, 10 foot by 15 foot or so. Good thick plywood floor on top of 10" tall runners, 16" on center. I have plenty of burn marks on the floor already, but nothing caused imminent danger of anything other than smoldering. Someone was giving away a bunch of brick, so I thought about bricking the floor. Should I bother with a fireproof floor? I don't think brick would be ideal. I have been thinking of putting down a tarp, then covering the whole thing with soil that would eventually compact and harden. I will likely own this house and Smithy forever, so resale value is not a big deal. Strange ideas are welcome. Here is a picture of the Smithy mid construction. -Doug

I just called Henry A. Evers Corporation - Everstamp, Quality and detailed steel stamps for over 100 years. As of March 2009 The most basic stamp will run $100, mine saying "DougHull.com" with a little viking cap on it was going to be 1/4" by 1/2" in size and be about $180. This info from a three minute phone conversation. -Doug

I have a side draft to the same dimensions as Uri's. BP1048 Side Draft Chimney | Blueprints 1000 The 12 stack is 15 foot tall, all galvanized. I figure this is already outside where the draft is going up and out. The inside side draft over the fire is stainless and is cool enough to touch, so I doubt my galvinized stack 3 foot away through the wall is going to be a problem because it is significantly cooler, outside and drafting up and out. Do any of you think it will be a problem? -doug