chichi

Very nice work. Can you describe the priocess for pouring the pewter. Years ago, I watched a guy wrap aluminum from a pop can around the bolster area, melt pewter and pour it into the bolster area. Is that the process? What is a cheap source of pewter. Thanks.

I was in a nice junk shop and noticed a blacksmith type vise but it had no post. It had a bracket and the shop owner said it was originally made that way and the only one like it that he had ever seen. I remember seing some wagon tongue vises in an old thread on this site .Is there any particular value to this style vise versus a post vise of similar size. I assume I can get it for $50 or so. Thanks

Can you describe how the socketed handles are formed. Is the socket a separate piece that is later brazed on or? How is the ball shape at the base of the socket formed. Very nice. Thanks.

I think the fit and finish are excellent. Just curious, what % of the total time did forge work take? I prefer knifemaking to handlemaking but admire your great craftmanship.

The scraper is called a Sen. I made one but dont believe i have the correct bevel. Should the scraper be pretty blunt as opposed to an acute knife like angle?

Thanks. The tailgate rules dont allow a post unless the item is owned by a member. My friend with the hammer could join the forum and post but he is Amish and has poor computer skills.I will list in craigslist. B

A friend has a hammer for sale. Is it appropriate to post here? Thanks, B

Thanks for all of the good comments. I like the rough look, but years ago finished at a bright shine. I have a square wheel grinder so that is no big deal. But , grinding and the dust caused me to lose interest in shiny so I now prefer rough.

Most knives are finished to a smooth, bright shine. This is usually done by using proressively finer grits of abrasives. A finely finished knife is considered a mark of good workmanship. A minority of makers just grind and shine the bevel and leave the hammer marks and even forge scale on the blade.I believe Japanese blades are sometimes left in an "unfinished " state. A lot of people seem to like this rough look. I am wondering if there is a large difference in the soundness of these two types of blades. Putting appearance aside, does a totally smooth 400+grit polished blade perform substantially different from a blade with a well ground bevel and honed edge that has hammer dings or some forge scale remaining? Has anyone actually tested for differences? Thanks for your comments.

I have watched several of Murray Carter's videos on You Tube and really enjoy them. I think his philosophy on sharpening technique in which he says skill trumps equipment is very good. He also forges a nice blade Japanese style. He keeps the blades thin so they will do their job which is to cut. He has one video in which he fails a viewers's challenge to sharpen a knife so it will cut toilet paper by only pushing the blade (no sawing motion). He must be confident to admit failure. The knife used in the challenge could be used to shave so it was still impressive. Just curious what others think of Murray. Has anyone bought his videos or knives?

Great work and pictures. How was the outer ring of the trivet finished. I did not see a forge weld. Was it mig welded or somehow fastened by one of the collars? Thanks , Bob

Do yourself and your mother a favor. Hide the old tool and dont make a new one. Maybe she will forget about it. Such tools are the work of the devil. Buy her a potted plant.

Heat some iron to red and taper a point. Reheat and burn some holes in softwood. Kids will love it and remember more than any historical talk. I sometimes demonstrate at a historical site. Nobody pays a lot of attention altho hooks are popular. Another demonstrator with no skills did the burning holes thing and the people thought it was the second coming??

All of the examples above look great.E and k are a challenge. Using the German method,I believe all of the letters can be made from narrow flat stock with little or no waste and no rivets or welds. Just clever chisel and forge work.

I have always liked the appearance of forged letters and numbers that I have seen in several B/S books (German smithing books but I dont recall the titles).I have done a few myself(poor penmanship) but have never seen any others in real life. Does anyone have pictures of forged letters or done this type of forging? The methods used to conserve material were quite clever. Most letters cut from flatstock approx 3/4" wide. Thanks

Thanks Dan. It looks promising. Chichi

Nice job. Look up Peter Ross calipers which have a different function but a real nice project to improve forging skills. Start with the simple 3 leaf and work up to 5 leaf with the tightening screw. chichi

I called and left a message. It was late aft. so I did not get a return call, yet. Thanks for the info. ChiChi

I googled Bruce Lepage and it appears he is not listed. I saw many references to him as a master engraver but no web site. I suspect he has more work than time and does not need more accessability to the public. Thanks, ChiChi

I have spoken to Clay Smith but he is not set up to take on any teaching. Plus, I am in Wi.and he is in VA. Brad Emig is a fulltime maker and teaches classes but none on forging gun parts.I was hoping to find a library resource or someone who teaches the skill that I could tap without taking away their professional time, and I believe Brad is pretty busy. He is also a long distance away. I have made a few locks. I am reasonably adept at forging the cock, frizzen, bridle,sear and the springs for the frizzen,sear and main spring. I also forge the pan but forge braze it to the plate along with a piece of bolster material. The only part I dont make the traditional way is the tumbler. I just turn that on a lathe. It has taken several months of making waste and study of the Gunsmith tape with Wallace G. and the JHAT article. I know how to get the job done. I would like to be more efficient and improve aesthetics. I am to the point I dont know what I dont know (to quote our former Sec. of Defense). Thanks for your suggestions. Unfortunately, I have already been down most of these roads. (I did order the book Frank Turley suggested above). ChiChi

Thanks for the recommendations. I have read Foxfire, Art of Blacksmithing and have books from TOW. There is a small section on lockmaking in the art of Blacksmithing book. I have found no other references re smithing parts. Most cover assembly of a gun. I believe the Herschel House video may cover butt plate forging but not the more difficult lockmaking process. I posted a similar question on Muzzleblasts (one is posted now) .No one seems to be involved in forging parts.A few replies from people who once forged a lock years ago. I was hoping the blacksmith organiztions have library material, demonstrations on video, or contacts to people currently involved. No luck so far. I will try Frank Turleys suggestion and look for the book he recommended. Thanks, chichi

1)I have forged a flintlock lock from scratch based on information in the Journal of Historical Arms Technology (JHAT). I would like to discuss same with others who have knowledge on the process as I am pretty rough and slow. I appreciate any referrals. 2) I was browsing blacksmith organization web sites several nights ago and one had gun smithing articles authored by members of the organiztion in their library. It was late so I put off contacting the organization until the next day. I thought it was the BAM (Blacsmiths of Mo.) website but could not get in to their library the next day. I contacted their librarian and she insists they have no gunsmithing info in their library. I must be confused about where I saw the refernces the previous night . I have searched other sites and have not located the material. Do any of you belong to a smithing org that has gunsmithing info available to members. Alternatively, do you know of any books or articles on forging flintlock parts other than the JHAT ? Thanks for your help.

Nice job. Clean and simple and perfect for it's intended purpose which is cutting. Bob