chichi

Hofi, How did you form the bolster (thick part where tenon is formed) on the two tenoned chisels? Did you fuller a neck below the tenon shoulder and use a monkey tool while holding the chisel by the neck in a vise? Thanks, Bob

Thanks for the clarification. A more sophisticated tool than I thought. Is one heat for 1/4 in. stock attainable with todays mild steel vs the old wrought iron? Bob

I did punch from the bottom to get the hourglass shape but I did not get much of a countersink effect when I punched from the top. I will inspect the nails to see if I can tell where the problem is. Approx. 3/16 is a good reference. Thanks for the tips. Bob

Thanks Frank. I think I follow you. Lot of technique! Bob

I searched "nail making" and read a lot of threads but I did not find the answer to my question. I punched and drifted a sq. hole in my header . I started at the bottom and drove the plug from the top. I am going to use 1/4 stock, do I make the hole in the top a shade under 1/4 so the stock does not go thru when I head the nail. I saw a diagram which shows the hole should have an hourglass shape. Wont that cause the nail to jam which is the problem I am having. I need to file the edges of the hole but wonder about how close the hole size needs to be to the stock size. Sorry for raising a question on a topic so well covered. The nail maker in the video I attached in the "look into the past" thread has me inspired. Bob

Thanks for the tips. Bob

How is the raised vein made in a leaf? I assume a crease is made in a piece of flat stock and the leaf form is centered over it and then beat down so the vein section is just the part that is not flattened. How wide and deep must the crease in the die be? How is the leaf form kept steady so the edge of the vein is not eradicated by slight but inevitable movement? BTW, the leaf on Brian Brazeal's web site could make a guy cry it is so well done. Bob

I dont have a camera so it will take a while until I borrow one. I just forge a tenon on the 3/8 stock. I reheat and put into vise with the tenon and about 1/4 in of stock extending above the jaws. I then beat the monkey tool causing the shoulder to pinch down on the jaws and spreading enough for a good shoulder. Very simple. Not fancy looking but effective. Same with 1/2 in stock. Spread the working end like any other chisel. Really only takes one or two heats after you make the tenon. I make the tenon in a clapper die under the hammer. You could freehand by using a butcher to form a crease around the stock and carefully forge the tenon. Use the monkey tool to clean up the shoulder and then follow the procedure above for more of a shoulder/bolster.

I enjoy woodworking and make my own chisels. I either forge weld a high carbon steel to mild steel or just start with high carbon steel from say hay rake tines. For the handle, I forge a tenon and upset the shoulders using a monkey tool. This gives a better shoulder on which the end of the handle is supported. I just drill a hole in suitable handle material and pound on to the chisel tang. The Japanese style chisels have a tenon or split tenon forged on a cone shaped section which gives more shoulder for the handle to rest against. I assume a clapper type die is used to forge the cone shape from the parent stock which is probably a 3/4 or 1' rd stock. Could someone who has made made Japanes style chisels describe their technique or post a few pictures? I also make socketed chisels but electric weld the sockets onto a stub tenon. I have a question on this technique as well if anyone makes these. Thanks, Bob

Thanks for the info. I got a large crowbar for $2. so I thought it would be a cheap source of tough steel. Bob

Is crowbar steel useful for making punches,chisels, etc? Thanks, Bob

I just purchased a small hay budden anvil at a garage sale. I think it is about 90 lbs. The stamp showing "hay budden mfg. brooklyn" is stamped very sloppily on the side. It is not centered and may have been double stamped? Could this be a factory "second" due to some flaw and intentionally stamped this way? The edges are pretty nice and in good condition overall. The price was good so I dont really care, just curious. Thanks, Bob

The link below is for documentaries done in Sweden in the 1920's. These show craftsmen of old doing various types of handwork and other skills. nailmaker, wheelright making a hub, potter, furnituremaker, woodenshoe maker printing roll paper or cloth dying yard, textiles small lathe work in wood making a bucket and others I have not yet watched. They are really cool and show the skill and speed at which these guys could work. These are just great videos. Note the crude but very effective nailmakers anvil. Another vid shows two smiths making something for horses I believe. I dont know what they are but these guys were good at turning them out! Enjoy. Bob 1920's Träskomakeri, träskedstillverkning, stolmakeri (utan ljud) 1923 -

Simple sucker rod and flat bottom? Seems too good to be true. I will give it a try. I did not have time tonight to view Peter Ross but I will take a look tomorrow. Thanks for all of the comments. Chichi

I would like to make as narrow of a slit in a 1/2 bar as possible. If I forge a chisel so that it is very thin, it cannot take the heat or force needed. I would like to make a 1/8 wide slit about 1/2 or 3/8" wide. Is this possible? Thanks, chichi

To learn about the color of the steel and its surface appearance (wet)at welding heat, practice doing an easier weld. Take 1" by 3/16 or 1/4 and fold an inch back on itslef, flux, heat and weld (faggot weld). You can take 1/4 round, forge a taper to a very fine point and use that to touch the metal when you think it is ready to weld. Let it touch the piece for a few seconds and it should stick. That is when you know it is ready to weld. Also, try to keep the piece level and covered. If you place the work toward the bottom of the fire, too much oxidation. Drop the tongs is too difficult starting out. Keep trying and good luck. chichi

Curly, I just tried to send finnr a pm. I will wait for a response but I am not sure I posted it properly. Thanks.

Thanks for the welcome. The hinge I am intereted in is too small for chiseling out the branch. I saw a picture of a hinge that was done by a demonstrator and a picture in which he showed the various parts that were welded. I saw this in a newsletter and did not actually see the demo. I was wondeering if a special type of scarf was needed. Thanks, ChiChi

I saw a large strap hinge that had several scroll shaped branches welded to the strap. I was wondering if the branches are scarfed to create a thin edge that will blend into the strap. I assume the section of the strap where the branch will be welded to the strap is pulled out and thinned. Both pieces are brought up to heat and the branch is "flat welded" to the strap? Or, is there a less obvious but better way to scarf and weld? Thanks, Chichi