MooseRidge

Had a copy for years.... I used to do SCA, (blacksmith, poetry, rapier, archery, calligraphy, weaving, etc.....) so I was looking for old manuscripts for ideas for various projects, it was an old woodcut..... hmm... maybe it'll come to me....

New house, rebuilding forge and shop......

Use them all the time, but still not expert in filing the blade edges.... guess I need more practice.... LOL!

If you think it might be questionable, it probably is.... If its not something you would show your grandmother, don't show it.... If its something that you would not discuss in "polite" company, don't dicuss it... Rules I've had beaten into my head for years.... Am glad though that there is a penalty box.... not permanent (though some may warrant that.... depends on the situation!).... Good site, good rules, good topics, good ideas.....

Taps are the four-sided drill looking things, used to take a drilled hole and cut threads into the walls.... You have to use corresponding drill bit sizes and taps to get the correct amount of thread.... You also have to ensure that the tap is vertical (or the same angle as your drilled hole!) and use lots of oil to lubricate the process.... go slowly... The dies are the doughnut shaped things that go on the outside of the metal you wish to add threads to.... each is made for a specific size stock.... same rules apply.... keep the die perpendicular to the stock, use oil, and go slowly.... Takes some practice, but is a very useful skill and tool to have.....

Difference between forged and cast is easy to see, but quality versions of each are available, it comes down to price and usage.... I've been using a 175lb Euroanvil for several years and found it to be good for my current usage and price was good as well.... At some point, I might upgrade to a larger anvil, and will revisit the forged vs. cast issue at that time.... Pretty much preference and pocketbook....

Been using the 175lb size for several years, found the double pritchel configuration handy for many items, as well as the upsetting foot..... Finish does leave a little to be desired but overall, well worth the money.... (some day, I'll get a larger one as well....)

I'm trying to remember where I saw a woodcarving of a variation of wood lathe setup.... one where a strong sapling was bent over with a rope and when you stepped on a board the sapling bend down.... normally, the rope would be wound around a beam which would turn, allowing the beam to be turning to shape.... In this case, the end of the sapling was encased in a metal sleeve with a large end (probably due to the accuracy!), allowing the smith to free his hands for holding the metal and tools.... Probably not good for large forgings, but should work for chasing and repousse work.... Just a thought....

Start with a larger piece of mild steel stock, split it halfway, and insert the HC steel.... Forge weld.... usually takes 2 or 3 times with lots of flux..... Flux, get to forging temp, 30 secs of hammer, reflux, reheat Repeat Gives a good strong weld and adds some interest to the blade itself.....

Try making a modified sandwich billet.... 3 sheets thick... Mild steel 1/2 HC Steel, 1/2 Mild steel Mild steel Same process as Damascus initially, but without the folding... Then grind the edge down to the HC steel for your edge....

One of the problems in using grinders for edges it keeping the angle constant. Usually results in a wavy bevel along the edge. The best thing is to use the grinders to get the blade close, then use a knive-sharpener vise and hones to get the blade set correctly.... a little pricey to buy, but you can make one.... just look at pictures of ones on-line, then make your own....

Probably the biggest thing to check out would be the local ordinances regarding "quiet times"..... Many areas have specific hours they REALLY enforce the laws.... At our current house, one of the neighbors does motorcycle repair/customization out of his garage (or runs a chop-shop, not sure which!), and ALWAYS shuts down by 10 PM.....

Shop is locked, both door and roll-up. Adding security system (building house - will be wired for electrical/security at the same time)... Good neighbors still best system!

No actual moose in Dunlap, but its the thought that counts! And yes, aren't they though? (Been years since I've tasted any and even more years since I've been chased and treed by one.... Loooonnnngggg story..... LOL!)

Beware of Attack Moose Sign on forge door.... :-)

The problem is different levels of protection.... I use didymium glasses with wings for forge welding, safety eyeglasses (my prescription) for normal smithing, and a full face palstic shield for grinding...... The didymium glasses are from a glass-blowing supply store (though some of the blacksmith supply groups now carry them)... My normal glasses are safety glass (have to have the type engraved into the lenses to REALLY be safety glass). Most prescriptions can be made using this type of lenses, but it does restrict the frame styles.... The plastic face shield can be found at some hardware stores or cleaning supply houses (actually.... mine was from when I was an embalmer... LOL!) Then, of course, there's welding masks/googles etc..... As far as I can tell, there is no one type of protection that is good in all cases.....

One thing to remember when you want to ensure a firm and soild fit... The tang should have 1 or 2 pairs of shoulders (flanges at 90 degrees to the blade) that will allow the metal to form around and "seize" onto.... Much less likely to slip free if a crack should ever occur.... In addition, the handle can be poured into a mold, and then the blade can be inserted. Much easier to pour into a small opening without the blade, no chance of the handle material getting on the blade, and lowers the time (a little) that the blade can absorb additional heat.... Just my 2 cents worth...

Using a torch into the eye works quite well for bringing up the heat for tempering the face and pein... especially for larger heads....

I've used A2/S7/O1/h13 for chisels, gouges, and such. They're harder to work but handle the impact and heat stress of making wizards and animal heads, chasing, and other applications. As knivemaking requires much more refinement over the entire piece (instead of just the ends), I would not recommend using them for knives... I am including a link to a link with suggested uses for different tool steels.... http://www.pvsteel.com/docs/Tsb-093.pdf Chuck

My copy is signed with his mark as well.... NOT giving it up! ;-)

Grew up in Windsor, Maine.....

I have one of the older model Taig lathes with lots of attachments and parts. Bought it at an auction, still haven't set it up. Most of the parts are still packed in the original grease.... Usually walk up the hill and "borrow" my friend's lathe if I need one.... Chuck

Now I have a 3 1/2' stump that I dug out below the level of the floor (and gravel), lined the whole with plastic, abd then dropped the stump in. With the cravel packed back in around the edges (plus the weight of the stump itself - 3.5' wide x 3' tall oak), it's my anvil base, swage block base, and post vise base..... Chuck

The biggest question is what is the base of your forge area? I've always been a fan of packed gravel (more forgiving on the old knees and back!). I drilled three holes into my old stump (about the same as the telephone pole you have) in the uneven end. I then hammered in rebar show leaving about 8 inches showing, then ground them to a point. Placed the points down in the location I wanted and jumped on the stump to get it started. I then put some old boards on top and used my sledge to hammer it flush. This left me with a nice flat top and it never moved in the 2 years I used it.... Chuck

The only time I use Anthracite is forge welding. I use local Bituminous (med ash, med sulfur, high BTU) that I used to get for free. I coke up a large supply at the end of each session so I have plenty to start the next one.... Once this batch runs out, I'll have to make some other arrangements....