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I Forge Iron

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    Mountain Center, California

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    Idyllwild California

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  1. Chinobi, do you know where I can find a schedule of demonstrators? I probably can only attend for part since I have a good deal of horse trading to do that weekend. I did not see a schedule on the linked page above.
  2. Just brought them a sample section that I hit a few times with a texturing hammer, edge hammer beveled and left most of the scale on (hit it with the wire wheel). Got the big thumbs-up. Personally I like the scale removed but to each his own.
  3. That sounds like a cool idea. I think these guys are looking for a "rust pitted then cleaned up' look. They have modified their plans a few times and driven a couple of contractors out the door. Folks that are surviving are just Rollin with it. When they change plans they pay you for your work so far and kindly ask you to recycle it, so I'm trying to roll with it and leave my ego at the door. All that to say, yesterday the plan wasn't the hammered all over look, but tomorrow it might be!
  4. Roberto is his uncle? That would probably be the ultimate Thomas but unfortunately no press and my new compressor is in limbo, company I ordered it from has apparently dropped off the face of the earth- guess life is happening as we speak. I was in the shop this morning banging on a sample of my 1/4x7x4'. It's doable by hand in short heats. The metal supplier surprised me and sent a couple of large drops of the 7 inch so I'm using one to straighten on (on my cement floor). Primitive but workable since I only have 10 pieces of this bigger stuff. I added a small amount of internal texture with a home made texturing hammer, not enough for me but what they say they want. Only changes I can see making now are to use a material handler (Helper) while I strike. Also, I think I'll use a large flatter to straighten the material instead of my hand hammer. I'll brush the sample and hit it with my 50/50 beeswax and carnuba wax and see what they say.
  5. Never have used air tools in any of my work but I am waiting on a 7.5 horse compressor to run the new utility hammer. Could be worth a try
  6. LOL- That would be interesting. With the longer heats I'm actually concerned that I might end up looking like bacon...so maybe shorter segments are wise. I like "your assembly line" thoughts too, Frosty Jeremy, That is a pretty big rounding hammer, maybe I could modify a small sledge. I am currently setting up a 85lb power hammer (2.5"x4" flat dies) but, 1) I'm not 100% sure how I would use it with this job (ideas?), and 2) I think it will finally be together when this job needs to be out the door (though I may be able to delay the customer and speed up the hammer if it would be an advantage). Good input guys, I will try playing with shorter sections.
  7. Ok, a customer has ordered 8 panels approximately 3'x4'. Picture a fireplace screen that has 1/8" rusted material instead of screen. The corners will be lapped and the 1/8 inch will be riveted to the frame. The frame will be edge beveled with the hand hammer- heavy texture and the interior of the frames will be lightly textured with a hand hammer. Now here is the challenging part for me. The frame has 3 sides made of 4"x 1/4". The fourth side is one of the longer sides and is 7"x1/4". I hope to take longer heats (2') and have been advised by a smith that has made some pretty big fireplace screens out of 1/4 inch that my material will get pretty wavy and wangly if I don't hammer on a lot of support (like a giant I-Beam). I have done similar work with material half the length (the radiant heat was something that would make Lucifer proud) but I haven't worked with longer sections. Any ideas on hammer support? I would like to keep the material relatively straight as possible because correcting this thickness and width can be time consuming
  8. Thanks everyone! Sure appreciate the help. Nice to see y'all rushing to the aid of a smith that has beer belly problems! I will try out several methods and will definitely try out the stainless slack tub method mentioned by IronWolf for the fun of it too. Even if i don't use it on this job, I can see it being handy another time. Frosty's Trewax will definitely get a try too, due to it's simplicity. Touch up is very important, I don't want to have to go in and pull all the work at a later date. Love the photos notownkid! I've got a picture of a restored Concord stagecoach that I have been staring at. All in all, you folks have put my mind at ease. I have never dealt with beer on my iron work before. Of course, I have had beer on my anvil, but its always in some kind of container!
  9. I've got a customer that would like me to make some bracket plates for the edge of his brew pubs bar. He wants "forged black iron" to go with his western stagecoach theme. The two things that these brackets will encounter in their lifetimes are spilled beer, and customer bellies. Anybody out there want to weigh-in on finishes for this? The customer would really like something that looks like a traditional finish (like linseed oil and beeswax for example). I am concerned about finish durability (rust). I think that powder coating is out since I think that it would fill in desirable scale marks/details. Perhaps doing the work in stainless and then sending it out for blackening? Maybe forging it in bronze then doing a liver of sulfur patina and a clear coat if the customer is OK with bronze highlights showing up over time? Any thoughts?
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