markb

John
I like that idea, using the available heat, I'll try it.
Mark

Bob .....Murphy's Law

Thanks for the tip on the convection oven Bruce.

Went today 7am -10:30... micro wave, micro wave, micro wave, geo. forman

Good score Pete

Oxygen/acetalyn gas welding outfit would be most versatle IMO you can braze with it.

But at your skill level maybe not the most practical.

I,d say mig is easiest to learn, and I use mine to attach a 2' handle for forging my knives, then cut it off after forging.

Most here would like to help you learn, what tools do you have now?

Mark

I don't know why he sold it, had a lot of sentimental value to him...He and the guy he bought it from both lived in Buffalo , his dad worked at Buffalo foundry.

Blower runs smooth as silk.

I told him I'd take good care of it.

We don't have a grill, so this one may see a steak or two:)

Thanks Steve

Frosty
The guy says to me when I got it... Be careful you can burn-up all your charcoal if you crank to much. LOL

Another related ?
Can I temper at say 400 once, and I think it's to hard, temper again at 450 to soften a little?
Can I go back the opposite direction.

This has prolly been covered but I start spinning looking for these asnswers.

I just got back from my garage sale search. No t/oven

But I found this cool BarBQ:D


Thanks again Bob for that explanation.

Still need a t/oven:o

Cheers
Mark

Thanks Bob

Garage sales this weekend. I'll get a t/oven.

Also I was wondering if there are any rapid transformations going on immediately after Quench that need to be addressed by the temper, other than the unstable state of the steel.

Mark

Hey Jake...HEY JAKE!!!!

Noticed it's your birthday today.

HAPPY B'DAY.

Hope all's OK.
Cheers Mark

I googled , blockand tackle images


Thats not what you asked for, i know, I have a wooden block, I'll take a pic, I think it has metal wheels, I have a metal body wooden wheel also. I'll post this evening.

Heat treating 1084 in an electric oven, I went to 1475 degrees, quenched in ATF at 150 degrees and checked w/file for hardness.

Now to temper it takes the oven an hour to cool to 400-, my temper target.

In the sticky it mentions the stress at the martensite state, after quench (could crack blade)

Any other dangers waiting an hour to temper.

I'm using the oven (PID control) for its accuracy and fear of burning point in forge.

I'm taking notes and doing #d samples, but don't want to continue down the wrong road.

Thanks Mark

I've been trying to turn my shop space from a shop- tool, materials storage area into a shop.

I started by removing everything (almost) not needed for the task of forging and finishing knives. No small task.

So in the process I found the barrel, the bottom of a vacuum I dumped, and a real neat round thing (would make a nice hammer rack)
Anyway no biggee, just though I'd share and I love to post pics.

Looks very good, kind of an oriental look.
Cheers
Mark

I was looking through some old blade magazines from '90, '91 or so and found an artical on this maker. Does all file work except rough grind and showed carburundrom stone grinder and hundreds of files in his shop.
Great Lakes Custom Knives - Knives by Wolfgang Loerchner

The rough "grind"- file went real well ,I could keep nice flat bevels and work up to the lie, real crisp, flat and straight. Used the body file(magi-cut) first then the big mill bastard.

Then I went to the small mill bastard and started to draw file. I didn't draw file with the large file.

Drawing with the small file parrallel to the grind lines was too hard to keep the angle and I found out i needed some sort of magnification at this point to see the scratches and lines, had to slow way down. In the prosses I filed a dip in the top flat and there went a nice straight line.

So I think a Opti-visor is in order, the magnifier doesn't allow you to move to see at another angle which is essential.

I filed w/small bastard then sanded w/120 grit one bevel to see how it'd look, may have to go back to file.

I think the dark line in the bevel is a high spot, you can see it from any angle.

Anyway just thought I'd share my learning experience.

How big-small is that, not familiar w/masonry nails .
I like It!

I've yet to work micarta but i had a piece of canvas micarta that I left laying in the dirt for a year rain snow 100+ degrees for days , 90+ for weeks and it didn't seem to change, although I didn't measure or test in any way

That's a serious knife, looks good, and I like your description of the handle build, very helpful.
Mark

I just love ivory, I've collected a lot over the years but don't know if I will ever make a knife worthy of it.

Just don't know if I can cut it up.
I'd never cut up the Bilikin.

Nuthin' worse than a lingering scratch in the middle of the lid of a 9 foot, mirror polished black lacquer Steinway

I have a book, "Bethlehem Tool Steels" copy right 1948, listing HW8 -Hot Work 8 tool steel

Typical Analysis
C 0.60
Chromium 3.60
Moly 8.50
Vanadium 1.75

They list heat treatment,uses, instructions for working, tempering tables etc. a couple of pages on this steel.

Also listed "Solid Drill Steel"
C .75, Manganese .20 Silicon .15
Uses- chisels, concrete-buster points, crow bars, blacksmithing tools, etc.

I don't have a scanner, but if you'd like specific info I can relay it.
Mark

I'm going to reference a page I posted and re read it.
Seems I may have the answer to my own Question.

I've been reading about knife making for so long and not actually practicing that the info is familiar but not really learned. It takes a combo or info and action, so I'm going to do as Steve suggested.

Please continue to post on the subject.

Is thinner faster?
Does faster= harder?

I traded electrical work for the use of a Bob Cat and the owner said it needed some hydraulic fluid so pick up a quart or 2.

Well, they sell it in 21/2 Gal. jugs and it took a half a quart.

I think it is about a twenty weight oil. (Good stuff, $40.00)

Would this be suitable for quench or should I send it back w/Bob.

Thanks Mark

I took the idea from a picture of a knife with this basic shape, and then changed small things. I should have made a note of the maker and given credit. I'm not sure when you should give credit for a design, there's so many styles and variations.

It had a guard about 1/8" thick in an oval shape, but I don't know how to do that.
Well I know one way... but skill level is beyond mine.

This could be the subject for another thread.

Thanks for your consideration, I was drawn to the exaggerated profile too.

Heres a spear type profile I never finished.





















It had a guard about 1/8" thick in an oval shape, but I don't know how to do that.
Well I know one way... but skill level is beyond mine.