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I Forge Iron

markb

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Posts posted by markb

  1. I followed this tutorial. http://beknivessite2.homestead.com/nssheath.html
    Used copper .040 thick because I didn't have nickle silver.
    Used hard silver solder and made the ball from two dapped half sphears.
    Let me know what you think. Still needs felt and clip. I learned a lot on this. Thanks for looking.
    knifephotobox001-1.jpg
    knifephotobox002.jpg
    knifephotobox005.jpg
    knifephotobox008.jpg

  2. As an electrician I have to meet an electrical code (NEC, state ,local).
    That's the minimum standard. That's good enough.

    Nec110.12 Mechanical Execution of Work.
    Electrical equipment shall be installed in a neat and workmanlike manner.

    Beyond that is: Better, Best, Excelent etc.

    With knives, It's my standard, and that would be the very best I am capable of, if it were to leave my shop.

    Good enough, on practice projects.

    Nothing's left the shop yet.:o:D:mad::(

  3. I have noticed a pattern in a 1084 knife I made and it didn't polish out.

    Here's a possable solution Quote Kevin R. Cashen:
    I often get phone calls from makers wondering what they did wrong with a hypereutectoid steel that has extra carbide forming elements. They get an odd damascus like pattern all over the blade. I tell them to soak longer or raise the temperature before the quench to dissolve those extra carbides and alloy banding and the problem will go away.

    The quote is in the text here:
    Heat treating 1084 Steel

    Hpe this is helpful

  4. I've been doing a little digging on nickel silver. Also known as german silver.

    I could be wrong so correct if so.

    German silver had or has 20% nickel. The spec. sheet on C752 lists 16.5 to 19.5 for nickel.

    C752 65% cu 18% N 17% ZN
    C770 55% cu 18% N 27% ZN

    Many alloys of NS, c752 being a common one for art uses, forming jewelry etc.
    http://www.olinbrass.com/companies/fineweld/Literature/Documents/Alloy%20C752%20Data%20Sheet.pdf

    Some people have commented that the german silver is more silvery colored and the 18% is more yellow.

    I'm wondering if the C770 is more silvery colored than C752 because of the added Zn and less copper?

    I will probably buy some of each and try it out.

    Please correct any information you find inaccurate here and add any you might have.

    Thanks MBehnke

  5. Hi Matt
    Have you used a straight edge to check your work? Hold it on the bevel and hold up to light to check.

    Use a felt pen to cover the blade in ink, then check to see where your file is cutting.

    I found that I could keep things flatter when using the file in the conventional way.

    Crisp grind lines on shallow angles are hard to maintain with file and sand paper get it as flat as you can with the file.

    Hope this is of help.
    Mark

  6. Hi Mike
    I used to design as I went and sometimes I was pleased and some not.

    Rich Hale encouraged me to work to a plan, picture drawing etc. This helped me very much. Instead of following the steel it forces you to develop control and pre plan. I draw a knife now and think it to death, study and build in my mind before starting.

    I learn more and faster i believe.

    Mark

  7. WOW! number 6 and your already playing with demascus?!?


    Mike
    That's one good looking knife. You've combined a lot of difficult process into one knife. I really like your "Gator skin" not to mention your handle combination.
    Keep up the good work.:D

    Mark
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