Steve Sells

the SORI is the amount of curve to the blade, When you lay the blade on a flat surface, its the measurement of the "gap" when the point and the back of the blade at the cross guard are on the table.

notes: its strange, a few months ago I started with almost 15 pounds of 1095 and L6 and I ended up with a katana. the Tsuba is only 60 layers.

I am honored people like It, I hope my client does, he had the curve and and length, and ladder pattern requested, the rest was up to me. I really wondered about doing a silver Habaki, and about using pure nickel rather than the a203e then hot bluing the tsuba.... so many ideas.... so little time.

also what temps and are you normalizing before the hardening? is it new or used steel?

The files will be great. BUT 5160 is very hard to forge weld, to anything. I have so much trouble with it, that even after 15 years of welding, I wont use it unless I have to, and since I call the shots in my forge. I dont have to very often. It is your call, but I suggest another material to mix with the files.

I posted a section of this blade when I first etched it, now its ready for delivery.

Here is a 460 layer pattern welded katana I made for an Iaido practitioner
for light cutting, 29 inch blade, 1/2 inch sori, 0.3 inch thick at tsuba,
0.2 1 inch from tip, Habaki is copper, Tsuba is 1095 and A203E in a radial
ladder pattern. 1/4 thick.

Differentially ( clay) hardened, then tempered 4 hours at 440F. Very sharp,
the Client will make the rest of the mounts, saya etc.

is there any reason not to work ? try it and post it here!

then there are wacko's like me that use high carbon on the outside to cover the tool steel's like L6 on the inside.

Starting with mild IS a good idea, after you get that, the other stuff IS easier. and the mild is more forgiving of mistakes.

Ohio is right next door to Fort Wayne Indiana. I usually have time on weekends.

Shanana na naaa lol Thread Hijack :o

Sometimes I call my blades names, if you want examples you will have to Email me, as Glenn and the Mod's wont allow those words to be posted here. :D

it stands to logic to get it working BEFORE you modify it with heat exchangers, turbo lifts. and transporters.

Add things later after you get the hang of welding temps. don't frustrate yourself, before you learn to have fun.

If you done have, can't borrow or steal the mandrel , then use a chunk of round stock sized close as you have to the same diameter of the handle you plan to use to hold the hole open as you weld. It doesn't need to be anything special unless you need to re-use it over and over again, even mild steel pipe can work to make a few.

you had us worried Phillip, I am glad you are safe:cool:

I have been welding in coal for years, what is the problem you are having, details please?

both your talents are top level, photography and blade are very professional.

I salute your sir.

deal? I am not sure I understand your question.

Carbon knives have been around since the beginnings of steel making. A fact of steels, is that in general a rougher surface will rust faster than a smooth one, example just after grinding with 50 grit, a blade can rust while you are changing the belts on your machine! where as a 400 grit can sit in the cooling water for a while with no problem.

make it look nice, do NOT use the dish washer on good blades, wash them by hand and you are fine.

It wont pollute the food either if that is what you were asking,

Welcome to IFI

an alternate option is to go the route i was forced to and use a scrubber i have used mine for about a year and have had no problems


scrubber

One problem with using a scrubber: Fed. Law requires ALL scrubbers be inspected (not cheap) on a regular basis, and the waste water from your scrubber is Legally controlled for HAZ MAT disposal by the EPA, and that is also a HIGH fee.

The cost for those two issues tells me let the smoke go, there was a very long thread about this a while back. You seriously could be looking at jail time if not in compliance with these EPA regs. .

No Joke

Its not only the bid's time limit, its the time from bid, to delivery can be 6 months or more under normal manufacturing conditions for pattern welded blades, due to the Que of other orders ahead.

Even with time limits on bids, some makers have a waiting list of 2 years out! So I Don't think my 6 month wait is hurting me as bad as them. But the cost rise from the time I got the assignment until I get it paid for is eating what little profit I had.

Sprry to hear it Pete, he is on my list as well,

P.S. knee mail, I Like that thanx Ted.

To clarify I do not use the bad sections, I cut them out, hence my reference to smaller sections, and so on. I agree if its bad then its only good for smelting.

nice job and good colors . in the future try to take photos with out the shadows across the blade. it will show it off better.

hmm THAT may explain a few things Jr :D

Crucible steel sells these in several configurations, They are in Indianapolis, Indiana. There are several steel companies in Louisville. I would start by checking there. Hope this helps.

A correction for Alan, I found out when I ordered more steel last month that the Indy office is now closed. I found out when I called to see why my Email orders were un answered. the people didn't forward the Indy Email to the new office . Our area is now served by their Ohio office. but the same 800 number, same fast service.

I use bladesmith technology. does that answer your question?

Technology doesn't do any work, the tools, used by a person yes, I sure hope this IS a salesmen, I haven't seen Glenn sic the german shepards on a salesmen in a long while :D

Inclusions have nothing to do with temperature, its not getting the scale off the billet when folding, coal residue getting caught in between the layers when folding, nasties like this getting in the way... I only forge when its above 40f, because I am a wimp and its too cold for me below that. :cool: Hey I am outside too, but I hope to relieve that this summer.

Having said that, Larger sections I will use for my Compound twist, inserting mono steel shims between the pattern welded sections, then welding them up into something usable. Smaller sections I use for bolsters or guards, and don't over look pins, few if anyone else, uses damascus pins and its a shame because they add to the blade. also you can charge more :rolleyes:

there are a few smith's here younger than you, if Anyone gives you a hard time Becaue of your age, let Glenn know, He knows how to deal with idiots, as we were all young once, its because someone older took the time to teach us, that we are smithing today.

Now... remember that giving you a hard time for not listening or being dangerous is allowed and should be expected

OK back to the real issue, 17, meaning you don't own or have any real control over th garage. To address some of the issues with sound sound, USe Egg crates ( left over from the eggs you ate for breakfast ) have been used for years as cheap sound defusers, just tape/glue/staple them together in strips, mounting them on a old sheet is a good idea too. Hang them on the walls like a curtain when you need them, they only adsorb high pitched sounds, BUT they cut down on the sound reflections, making it quieter outside the room, and inside the house too. carpet does not have to cover all the surfaces, even a small piece here and there will help deaden the room too.

The low frequency can only be delt with by Mass, meaning sand filled, very thick walls, and true sound proofing is NOT cost effective for most people.

Work with what you can, Hook up with local smiths is always a help, many have open forge times for you to go and use the groups equipment too.

Welcome to the insanity of Metal working.