Steve Sells

you hardened it with the water. it shattered because of stress from the hardening.

It takes a min. of 30 points carbon to harden, even tho we recommend more carbon for a knife, 1045 is good for a sword, and it can harden when quenched in water quite well.

16oz IS one pound,

5160H won't rust too fast, and I could do you one for $350 in this, plus shipping to where ever you are, Assuming its legal to send it to you there. You did not state where you are.

I won't bother with the holes as they will only add places to hold moisture and cause rust, I do warranty my work.

I don't do Stainless, Making this out of stainless isn't the real trouble, as much as heat treat for stainless that will hold an edge will add a hundred or more to the cost, plus the cost of good blade quality SS would make this a very high dollar blade.

Most of the time I thread and use Lock-Tite.

I just built a new forge, a brick side draft. I used my normal chop saw, and bought a brick rated blade (about $15 vs the $20 I pay for a package of the 14 inch diameter metal blades.) to cut them. while I did all the cuts dry, I kept a 5 gal bucket of water at my side to dunk them and keep the brick cool, as the heat build up will crack or chatter them.

Worked well. I cut 80 fire brick and a small percentage of the 1000 regular brick with it, I wore out about 3/4 the blade, its till usable. PLus I had the stability and safety of the chop saw that I would not have had with a hand saw.

just a side note, the Old files mentioned were made from F-1 a tool steel that is sadly no longer being made. Which is too bad because it was a wonderful metal for the dark layers in pattern welding. Only got to use it once time.

Just wanted opinions from the welding world, about the bad cables on the cheap buzz box I got. They are small and have bad contacts for ground and the rod's stinger.

I just picked up new cables ($20) for the $20 buzz box I got a few days ago. they are from a Lincoln 200 amp arc welder, very good condition, because the box it plugged into was stolen from the back of the truck.

anyway the question is should I hard wire these into the Buzz box I have, and the existing wires (very thin wire and Insulation even for the 100 amp box) or spend more money and get the female jacks from Lincoln, and install them in the box?

P.S My day job is as a Union Electrician, so I have experience in doing both operations safe and legally. just wondering if I should stop spending money on this and just weld with it :)

How do you get thosehorses to pee in the bucket.:confused: I have the horses.

Just like anyone else, potty training takes time, also note that the Males have it easier getting to the bucket than the females, Aiming troubles with the ladies dont ya know.

My brother raises Morgans, IF ya place a bucket near where they usually "go" you will get some, or you can collect it in the stalls. Use your imagination.

while many acids will remove it, the very nature of what make it stainless causes more chromium oxide to form upon contact with air.

What do you want it for may help to advise you...

maybe the axle was a harpoon for a whaler ?

And for the record, I forge, cant do total stock removal when I make the pattern welded steel in the first place :)

No one responded in the less than 4 hours of your posting? Sorry we all took so long. (according to the time/date stamp on the postings)

Nothing wrong with swordforum, I am a member there as well, its just funny to send a guy away to other places before giving us a chance to try to help.

It suggests a lack of faith in IFI.

I agree that John and Chris (M-Brothers and Hammerkid) are the most active here, but since M-Brothers goes back and forth between smithing and selling everything off, I have to place Hammerkid at the lead.

HK has been very serious, and active for a while now. HK is always asking how to be better, built some of his own tools, including a forge, and even goes to the trouble of setting up demo's, (making his teacher Uncle Spike work to keep up ) and drives me nuts with his zeal, (but thats a good thing and its a short trip anyway :cool: )

I would check with these guys:

swordforum.com

Is there a reason you sent him there rather than give him a real answer, or is it you think none of us here know? :(

I agree, its great you got your father interested in smithing, I hope you 2 can have a lot of time in the forge together.

Castable Refractory
Ellis Knife works

Dont temper that high, Use 350 to 380F max

Here is the link to my ren-fair setup.

Fenris Forge Events

lawn mower blade, most likely 10XX series, my bet 1080.
band saw blade, most likely 15N20, It appears you have very few layers, but the ability for contrast is already there. The problem is the acid you used, or the time. I don't know as you stated neither. try a different acid, or same for longer soak.

can't beat 5160

in Honor of the Olympics, I give it a 9.9 ( I will make it a solid 10.0 IF ya give it to me )

so many kids, so few manners these days.

may as well add my 2 cents worth, As a practitioner and instructor of Jujitsu, we start with basic weapons at white belt, a 6 inch stick, aka taebo or Kobuton just basics to be aware of them, as we cover 13 weapons before the first black belt exam, Mainly for an understadning of how they can be used against you. The real weapons training for kata and combat doesn't start until brown belt level, and no blades until Nidan (2nd degree blackbelt) We teach that most weapons are an extension of the body, so first learn to use your body.

Also please don't waste time trying to reinvent the wheel. Rather than ask invisable/unknown persons on the internet, ask your sensei.

Steve Sells, Shihan-dai
No Tora Ryu Jujitsu

one trick when I screw up a blade (pun was intended) is straighten while its hot, IE an interrupted quench. You allow it to quench as normal BUT remove and straighten before it cools below 400 to 500F, then temper.

Oh demented great one,

Where did this idea come from??? cool but ummm very ummm unique ? Cant imagine how that idea grew.

Keep it up tho, because I cant wait to see what you come up with next

hehe Hay polishing

cool idea. try it/. but not with one of my blades.. :p

either a fuller tool to allow the raising, OR Iforge them thick them with a contact wheel I grind them out.