Steve Sells

I like that Charlotte, Great tip for when a steel splint is too large to fit in the given area !

OK Mess, your daughter is IN That looks first class, she did good.

What does my age have to do with anything.
Matt

Maybe this should have been in the prayer list!

Please don't give up. First get or make yourself tongs and a pair of gloves (at least for one hand) Never use bare hands to remove swarf or scale. You don't have to crank up the air so fast, it will take just a little longer to heat the steel, but use a lot less charcoal with a gentile air flow.

Welcome to I Forge Iron

A very thin section will do that, as mass is needed to retain the heat. Try to harden the blade anyway and see if it works out, Else you may have to restart and try again.

You only need that for heat treating as a normal fire pot is what I use for swords until I need to HT.

Welcome to I Forge Iron,. Every Friday at 10pm Eastern we have a live knife chat for about a hour, love to have ya join us.

actually the safest order is to try AIR first, then Oil, the water, There are many air hardening steels that may not react well to a oil quench

I am dyslexic so I may be a bit off in the numbers, but IIRC the space needed for water as a liquid expands about 1600 times when converted into steam. That much heat does it very fast.

there is advanced heat treating info in the knife sticky's

Welcome to I Forge Iron, in "User CP" you can tag your location so other know you are local to them , easier to learn when you have some 1-1 forge time . Glad to have you here

when I was watching this I thought of a member from here

Language alert
Molten Aluminum + Lab Techs = Fail
Language alert

Very good first effort. Mine were barely useable

all the wheels have their own thing as to feel, but most work the same way. I only have a few contact wheels: 5/8" 2" 5" 8" and looking for a 1" and a 14"

I have both, use the Horz. band saw most for detail and smaller stock, but chop saw for pattern welded Billets of tool steels.

I want to get a larger horz band saw, with 1 inch blades for my tool steels and such.

People taking the tools you made is a good sign. Thieves usually do not steal junk. they want the best!

Welcome to I Forge Iron, we have "Sticky's" these are posts that stick to the top of the list for easy referral. plenty of heat treat for general amithing, as well as knife making in the knife section.

There is a lot to learn, and a lot of people willing to teach from among the membership here. Make yourself at home.

Welcome to I Forge Iron, have fun.

ooo you ignored the warning about unknown and Found wood! how will you heat treat that?

LOL I had to have fun, great first try! While that wood could be anything as a photo can't tell me hardness, or color shifting from staining, it could be mahogany, and it could be a lot of things since you are in OZ, but either way it looks good keep it up.

then why do bladesmith's fold steel bars?

Newsroom
Published: June 23, 2009

The following is a news release from the Bishop Gadsden Retirement Community.

It is with deep sorrow that we announce that Philip Simmons, America

I agree. Sorry if I sounded harsh, but we have had too many posts like yours and most end badly. Disregard for safety, or any sense with the tools or fire. You have a good teacher who will get you going properly.

Having read your profile, IF you are making Japanese style Armour:

Use the 0.75 or 1 inch wide bar stock. hammer it to about 1/16 inch thick, cut into about a 1.25 to 1. 75 inch lengths. Use a template to align the pieces and drill the cording holes. IF you try this free hand your cording will look like crap, (Personal experience and you do not want to have to re make these) I cant remember how many I used for the full set I made for SCA combat, but when it was finished it looked great, But I could not feel the blows. People used to joke about how much abuse that could take.

Remember that as you are when lacing this, most will end up being a double layer, so 1/16 is 1/8 of protection, some will be 3/16 where the corners and sides overlap. A little extra thickness for the scales, will add a lot to your total weight. Welcome to the Forum.

[markb] practice, practice
[steve sells] easy tpo over grind there
[Finnr] LOTS of good light is a must! Sucks to find scrtches when you are buffing. Don't ask How I know that!!:weird:
[Rich Hale] When I am done with a A16..I spend about three or four minutes on a buff with green matchless compound the a few minutes with pink no scratch,,,,done.......
[fat pete]because that scratch will still shpow
[Rich Hale] A shiny sceratch is still a scratch
[Finnr] 1And NOT what you want out of your shop
[markb]like a bad memory
[Rich Hale] Lets take a question break then we will get back to Jimmy and sticky pap0ers
[rthibeau] I didn't understand what a plunge cut is
[jimmy seale] well rh if i can finish better then i have to forge better and such.....
[Rich Hale] The start of the grind in front of the guard RT
[Finnr] Where the edge meets teh ricasso
[rthibeau] ok...thanks
[Rich Hale] This is method for ss I do the same for carbon but if 220 works best then that is a great plan let me tell you how easy this all really is--- I can do it
[jimmy seale] you use different set of belts for steel and ss correct?
[Rich Hale] I was not able to do any of this well for a long time had to learn to use the machines and the right stuff to use with it. No all the same Jimmy
[brucegodlesky] not really Jimmy
[Rich Hale] But let me make a guess. If you get ten feet of mild stell and cut it into ten inch pieces with a knfe prifile on each end byt the time you have ruined that bar of steel you will have learned a lot Ask JJ in as few days here he waws hollow grinding really well on a grizzy grinder I did not let him use the hard core as he has a grizzley Sticky papers
[lobodag] I start my grinds with strip of C2 carbide on each side at the start of the edge , glued on makes perfect edge stops and allows exact match to the grinde
[markb] I ground a piece of mild and liked it somuch i tried to heat treat it, forgot it was mild LOL
[Rich Hale] I am not sure the brand that I use..i call K and G and by some sticky backed 120 and 220 grit purple abrasive discs. They speak that language They are a few bucks apiece. After heat treat i use a flat grinding disc on a motoer and stick a disc on and grint the mill finish off the sides of the blaze,,120 then 220
[jimmy seale] i can gett 80,220 but wanted to get say 400/800 maybe a auto paint store?
[brucegodlesky] yep all the way to 2000
[Rich Hale] 1 The I use wet or dry sandpaper. I spray a disc adhesive on,,i get it from NAPA store ot a dure spray adhesive from ACEhardware.
[markb] do use vari speed Rich
[Rich Hale] And I start with a 400 then 800 then 1000 then 1500
[brucegodlesky] Rich you ever hollow grind on a disc?
[Rich Hale] MY disc is reversible but single speed No Bruce
[markb] what does rev. do for you
[Rich Hale] Buy good paper. I work the each side of the blade so the top of the disc is turning away from me..
[markb] OK what spd
[Rich Hale] After the wheel gets a bit gunky from spray I use acetone to clean it and start over Mark I see and use that alsmost every day and don't remember
[Finnr] 3M trim adhesive is good for sticking paper
[Rich Hale]I think 1750
[markb] kinda slow?
[Rich Hale] It was an old motor that lost the magic smoke I had them rebuild it and add a switch for the notther way
[markb] I've been liking slow on my belt but may change with experience
[Rich Hale] WE have some time for questions..I have covered alot...
[trying-it] Rich......... fastest way to obtain a nice usable belly? Lots of good cookies and ice cream, often?
[jimmy seale] do you know if them belts come in 4 x 36?
[Rich Hale] Mark my Hard core has a speed control I sun it almost alwasy in about the middle of the dial
[Finnr] Not much selection in that size Jimmy
[Rich Hale] Dont think they do Jimmy
[trying-it] Nope Jimmy, been there and done that
[Finnr] selection in one inch is just as bad
[trying-it] about 320 is best you will find for that size
[jimmy seale] well all i have seen is at lowe's and they ok but not so fine of grit
[Rich Hale] mark did wwe answer the plunge cut q?
[markb] My first grinder was FAST turned me off grinding, love the vari spd
[Rich Hale] They are the edge
[markb] Yes need practice thanks
[steve sells] 2 options buy a 2x2 machine, OPR glue and cut your own belts sorry
[Rich Hale] Which reminds me Ppete asked about the edge...After the knife is done handle is right blade guard everything is done and I have tried everything to fix anything needed. I sharpen the edge
[lobodag] most belt companies will make any size belt you need ,all good full line rewinders have several choices in brands
[Finnr] I eyeball my edges to about the thickness of a dime when I grind before HT. That too thick?
[Rich Hale] The edge is about .030 or soa s by now I have crowded the lines a bit.
[fat pete] how close id your edge till you finish
[Rich Hale] The with the blade edge facing the floor and about a 120 grit belt I gend the edge a little on each side..makeing sure to have the grind line up the side of the bvlade the slame on each side
[fat pete] so about a 32nd Watch the edge close and not burn it. When I develop both sides and get a wire edge...you will know it when you are there
[Finnr] Done that!
[Rich Hale] I switch to a 220 grint being carefull to remove 120 scratches. Slow speed here is better Then onto A45 And them A16 Then inspect in good light to see all scratches are gone
[rthibeau] does all that grinding, etc, work good on metals other than the ones you specified ??
[Rich Hale] Then to the buffer edge down and witha two hand solid grip...stay below center line of the buffer and lshine the edge up green first then pink on different wheel Mostly yes RT Now look at edge agin and lines go back to belt then buff
[rthibeau] ummmm.............rebar ???????...............................:evil:
[markb] Now that buffer is scary
[Rich Hale] If the edge will not shavev now look it closely and see if it has any flat spots on the very edge,,if so belts again
[Finnr] Most dangerous piece of equipment in the shopin my opinion
[lobodag]yup
[markb] Whats a cork belt do
[Rich Hale] If it shaves you are done if you want a sharper edge use a micron belt either a 9 or 15 9 is finer,,and just take a little on the edge.
[markb] do you use rouge
[brucegodlesky] things can get exciting real quick if you aren't careful
[Finnr] NEVER buff if you are tired or distracted. Accident waiting to happen
[Rich Hale]I haev a friend that swwears by them for handles Mark I have not tried one
[Rich Hale] My three buffers are the second most dangerous things in the shop
[Finnr] User the most?
[Rich Hale] I am the worst Thoughts I live by
[brucegodlesky] I was just hinking that Rich
[Rich Hale] Excellence is a decision.
[Finnr] Perfect is almost good enough
[Rich Hale] you do not have to have talent to make that decision persistence is also a decision. Good is the enemy of excellence
[markb] I struggle with that
[rthibeau] crawls into his hole.
[Rich Hale] Basically what i feel is that it is your choice,,what is the very worst thing that you will let out of your shp with yoour name on it........
[Finnr] If you aren't proud enough of it to sign it don't sell it
[Rich Hale] And if you do not sign it everyone will still know where it came from
[markb] you bet
[Rich Hale] I have once again run out of time and into the other spaces...any questions?
[Finnr] I have a box of "seconds" that ain't no one ever gonna get
[trying-it] I need a bigger belly
[Finnr]Don't look at ME Stan! LOL
[rthibeau] I'll feel better when I get to see Rich's personal collection
[Rich Hale] Me also Finnr and it drives my wife nusts..she usually pulls them out when i am getting ready to go to a show
[steve sells] last questions or comments before we colse up?
[Rich Hale] even the ones with ivory,,,,,gulp:cry:
[fat pete] Thanks rich ....really good job
[trying-it] thanks again Rich and Steve