Frozenforge

All you need is a pressure guage and figure the area of the rams cylinder. As an example if the ram has a 2" diameter that would be an area of 3.141 square inches (pi x diameter squared). At 2000 psi hydraulic pressure that would be 2000 x 3.141= 6282 lbs of force

Laws of Physics. If conditions remain constant more heat requires more fuel. Without knowing more details thats about all I can conclude. I will hve to look at his burners

We use it at work for shrink fit landing gear components. A couple gallons in a dewar disappears in about 48 to 72 hours. We get it from our local compressed gases supplier. 

Drive rivets are not made with a die. If i was to make a guess it would be somewhere around .5 to 1 twist per inch. The closest way to make might be to forge round stock to a hex or octagon, twist it then form the head. 

Mcmaster Carr sells them extremely cheap. 100ea 1/8" for like $2

If your gonna be stupid you better be tough!

I have a minion, I just never see it but I know it's there cause my tools are in the wrong place, garage is way more messy than when I left it and I find myself saying "I know I had one of those the other day" way too often! 

I have minions at work but it seems the more I get the less I get done.

Thoughts and prayers

With a 90% rebound thats pretty much all you need to know if you are planning on using it. It actually just looks like the mold maker just made a mistake when incorporating the logo. I would be pretty confident that it is a Columbian.

Wow!  What an extremely generous donor.

There has been a CL ad running up here for 2 hardies for $150.00 and a 90 lb multi products anvil for $800.00!

With that style feet 1830 to 1852. You got a really good deal. Value? Whatever someone is willing to pay but it seems that around $3 per pound is the going rate down south. 

I think since PW anvils were one of the predominant anvils in the 1800s and early 1900s and they did not adopt the 2 piece anvil with no faceplate till around the 30s its just a statistical numbers thing.

Just a wire brush, either by hand or with an electric grinder with a wire brush. Then a coat of oil, wax to keep rust from forming.

There appears to be plenty of workable area and edges other than the small damaged area.

Close enough on the math. I have no idea / experience on the ribbon burner part.

If anyone plans to weld on the rim this can be very dangerous with the tire inflated. As the steel heats up it can raise the internal air temperature to a point where the rubber begins to give off flammable gases. The pressure then begins to rise quickly in an exothermic reaction or continued welding can ignite the flammable gas in the tire. 

This is all happening unseen until there is a catastrophic explosion. While it may be rare it has happened. There is a safety video from Michelin and it is well worth watching and it is an OSHA (yes I did say a 4 letter word) voilation to apply heat or weld on a rim with an inflated tire.

I would think that deflating the tire and removing the valve core and welding small portions at a time with a cool down period would reduce risk or actually removing the tire from the rim, perform welding then reinstall tire to be 100%. 

Sorry if this has already covered previously, I didn't search the forum to see if it had.

A nice example of the logo where the N is more of an X.

Thoughts are with you and your family. Sounds like you are on the mend!

A fine example of adults having a conversation, blood pressures are low, moderators didnt have to get involved and none of those words that are all Xs!

I would prefer the tapered bearing setup due to ease of adjustment, ability to easily  maintain lubrication and when and if they do wear out they can be easily obtained.

Frosty, I would love to try your power hammer out sometime although my only worry is the envy that would follow! I'm sure I would seriously look into building a tire hammer after that.

I am planning on coming to the next meeting at Jims. Anything I need to bring?

The 88 below the logo should be the weight and s/n puts its mfg date at around 1897. A little unusual the the 8s are spread apart that far apart.

Early ones like this have a wrought iron body with the tool steel face plate forge welded to the body.

There is an anvil listed on Craigs list in the Big Lake area! Since these don't show up very often up here just thought I'd mention it. Good luck!

You usually only see birnelling when a bearing has seen direct impact. Seeing as the ram is suspended by the linkage and spring, that would probably isolate the bearing enough maybe? I'm not sure how much of the impact force would be transfered thru the frame though. Probably depends how the assembly is mounted to the floor.

I'm way out on a limb here with having zero power hammer experience! Just relying on mechanical, automotive and aeronautical and life experience.

With numerous tire power hammers being used if it was a serious issue I would have thought we would hear about it. If the bearing is making some noise due to the birnelling it probably won't be heard anyway!

Maybe he is the tin man!

Looks to be in the 130lb range and in good condition. Check the rebound and structural integrity and at that price hope you are quick enough!  If you do a little research on the Vulcan brand andyou shouldn't have any future issues.

I personally would not form any opinions on any participants unless I actually met them in person.

I work for the company that the Flying Wild Alaska show was based on there was very little reality other than the scenery and the remoteness of some of the locations. All the extreme dangers and drama were fabricated or exagerated greatly. 

The episode where a birthday cake was destroyed by severe turbulence was one of the pilots ideas. They put the cake in the box and he went for a flight with no passengers, a couple of aggressive changes in altitude later you get a smashed up birthday cake!

I did appreciate this episode more for the fact that they had some difficulties and the final projects represented the difficulty and the level of expertise required to accomplish in 5 days! 

Smoothbore has it. Camshafts are cast and then nitrided. Thats why when a camshaft goes bad it does it really quick. The surface hardness goes away then the lifter just grinds the lobe off. Roller lifters and rockers are one of the reasons engines regularly go beyond 250,000 miles now by eliminating the sliding friction.

If you throw a camshaft on the pavement it usually will just snap in pieces.