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I Forge Iron

Frozenforge

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Posts posted by Frozenforge

  1. As said before a Trenton anvil labeled ACME, (custom order by Mr Wile E. Coyote), made 1911. Appears to be in good condition and at .25 per lb when the usual going rate is around $3 to $4 per lb or higher, depending on your location, you got one heck of a deal!

  2. Appears to be a Vulcan. Appears to be in descent shape. Research a rebound test to see if it is structurally sound. Depending on price if you live in an anvil rich area you can probably find a better quality anvil. Here in Alaska it would probably sell pretty quick if reasonably priced as not many anvils pop up for sale.

    Probably be able to find a much better anvil at $4/lb in New England.

  3. A large roll of the mig tip size is the velocity of the propane as it is injected. While you could just change the pressure to inject the same amount of propane with a .035 vs .023 tip the larger tip will not induce as much air due to the lower velocity and it runs rich.

    Addition of the mig tip helps create laminar flow which keeps the velocity more stable. Small burrs or even scratches left by a drill bit cause turbulence in the propane stream too early and reduce the overall airflow of the burner. This applies to all of the NA burner designs.

  4. The rosebud tips will melt.

    A naturally aspirated or blown propane burner would be way less complicated and the NA burner requires no power. You would probably only need 1  3/4 inch burner for a properly insulated freon tank forge.

  5. On my Dewalt the 1-2-3 slide controls the gear reduction ratio with 1 being the slowest chuck rpm with the trigger fully depressed. The manual says to only change the speed setting when the drill is off and it has a mechanical feel to it when you change speeds so I assume it is a planetary transmission.

    The clutch setting is separate and it also changes depending upon the speed you select. For example a clutch setting of 10 is very tight on speed 1 and gets looser as you select higher speed

  6. The only part of the burner that gets to high temps is the flare providing it is running properly AND when you shut off the forge you either remove the burner or block it off so it doesn’t act like a chimney for all the heat in the forge. 

    The flare will slowly degrade over time.

  7. The soft bricks crack very easily just from the thermal cycling. Hopefully you made it easy to replace the bricks!  A thermally reflective coating applied to the inside will help. The only one that immediatly comes to mind is ITC-100. I know there are cheaper options but I cant think of their name

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