Frozenforge

Those numbers are fork arm capacity, load center dimension (4220x24).The others are probably a Part Number and either a Serial Number or Date Code.

This will be an interesting build.

Mount it on a stand and start hitting hot metal on it. Looks like it is a Vulvan at best or it is just a cast iron anvil.

While those may not be ideal, when you consider humans were using stones as anvils to make spears, swords and arrow heads thousands of years ago when your skills surpass the ability of the anvil then you can upgrade.

I just do this as a hobby and my Anvil is way more skilled than I am!

Thanks for the info, I have to head into Anchorage today so Ill swing by there.

Frosty, where did you find the Fiskars at?  I haven’t had a chance to go look around yet so it would be nice to not waste gas and time running all over the place!

Rehandled, dressed both ends and stripped off the funky blue paint within a couple days after I picked it up at a garage sale couple years ago. Need to put a larger radius on the peen though.

Here you can see the color difference of the tool steel plate showings its actual thickness.

The date is under the heel. It looks like it was actually made in 192? from what i can see zooming in just can’t read the last number. 

It doesn’t look like it has the casting numbers to indicate the weight. If you dont want to take it off the stump to weight it just measure the width and length of the face and the total length including the horn. I’m sure Njanvilman will be able to give you the weight or we can look in AIA and get an approximate weight.

I wouldn’t risk messing it up for that little bit of damage. The steel face plates on Fishers are not as thick as the casting looks. This has been discussed as well as confirmed by the Fisher guru Josh.

Put a temporary wall in blocking the unused 3rd burner. You do not want exhaust gases going up the unused burner. You could also block it off shoving some kaowool up the inside of the burner.

Stuff made from rail spikes do seem to connect with alot of people. I’ve done both round and square drawn steak flippers. The round take a little more finese. This is a shorter one for the camper.

It does take alot of effort to draw that far out and maintain a consistant taper!

I dont know what is scarier, the lack of training to obtain manual skills so that someone can actually make something, or the common thought that watching it being done once or twice on you tube qualifies as having the skill and knowledge.

It is humorous watching the very rude awakening when the “self proclaimed expert” comes to the conclusion that they don’t know jack

I had shop classes all the way from junior high. When I went to the equivalent of high school in England we had a coal forge, anvils. Learned to make punches and chisels, hardening, tempering, case hardening. Wood working and even some composite work.

I usually offer a small piece of advice and see where that goes. I either continue talking or just I shutup and nod alot while waiting for their equipment to be up for sale after a couple months!

Just today someone asked me advice for their brother cause he was buying all the gear, forge, anvil, press, hammers and tongs make a damacus billet then forge a knife from the billet. All knowledge and experience based on FIF!

I just said learn how to forge first.

I wonder how many people are making hardened but untempered blades then breaking them cause they don’t show the tempering process on the show, correct me if I am mistaken but I have never seen it in any of the episodes. Not good tv just watching an oven!

Did not notice you were located in England. I would not have suggested it was a Hay Budden if I recognized that. I doubt that many were imported to England with so many anvil manufacturers locally.

The tapered hole by the horn looks about the size for pexto tooling.

I would take a fine, 180 or 240 grit flap sanding disk an carefully smooth out the welds on the face being sure to just take off the weld material. By where the s/n is located it is most likely a special order made by Hay Budden. If so that s/n would have been made in 1897.

The Hundred weight system 1x112lb + 1x28lb + 1lb. Thus 1*1*1.

A 250lb would be stamped 2*0*26

If you got it for $200 you did steal it!

I think they only had the multiple piece face on the anvils over 150lb.

Sometime between 1862 and 1910.  This was the longest period they made anvils with virtually no changes.

Should be 1906.

It is 2 full bricks on top and on bottom and 1/2 brick on each side but you can come up with different options. 

A quick google for Austin Texas turned up Armadillo Clay and supplies. They have bricks insulation, rigidizer and I’m sure alot more than whats on their website.

Look up refactory supplies.

Soft bricks. All thread to clamp it together, Infared reflective coating. Was palnning on a 1/2 “ burner but I’m using a turbo torch setup I picked up very cheap at a garage sale.

This setup will go from cold forge and a piece of 5/8 solid square to forging temp (orange) in about 3 minutes.

Need pictures of the whole anvil, the bottom and the edges of the base.

You can see the triangle with the C in it that Columbian used. The belief is the letter on the opposite side is a foundry or pattern indicator. There really is not a good way of knowing when it was made. The stopped making smiths anvils in 1922 so it was made sometime between 1902 and 1922.

Make a stand and get to hammering!