Backwoods Blacksmith

The problem with Chinese quality is that they will take a contract to manufacture a product to a certain standard with specified material and then cut corners in manufacturing, substitute with inferier material, and not be to spec. This applies to baby food, ball bearings, high pressure valves, toys, etc. I would certainly think twice about spending $1500.00 or more for a anvil or $5,000.00 + for a power hammer. Especially when you can get a gaurenteed product made in the USA. If you buy from Harbor Frieght then you get HF quality and don't expect more. I have to aploigize for hijacking the thread but this subject really gets my goat

OOYAH: MADE IN THE USA

I have been many places in the USA working in heavy metal industries. I am a machinist and a welder/fabricator. I have been blacksmithing on and off for twenty years. And I admit I am still learning. Mostly from the people on this forum. I admire Mr. Hofi and his great knowledge and his willingness to pass this knowledge on. And I like the anvil that is being talked about on this forum. But why is anyone even thinking about buying stuff made in China? I mentioned working all over the USA. While doing so, I have had the misfortune of have to repair many items made in China. Most of which ended up being replaced at great cost. The Germen distrebuter is having production problems because the Chinese cannot or will not live up to manufacturing agreements. Not two Chinese products are alike. Especially heavy metal. Too many corners cut and no production controls. I find it hard to believe that these anvils cannot be made in Germany or the US. Nimba Forge makes great anvils, here in the US and at affordable prices. I am sure that there are other producers of which I don't know. I am NOT knocking Mr. Hofi's anvil. Just the idea of buying from the Chinese. Just MY 2 cents

Aljeter, Thread break Why do you want a metal stand for you anvil? If you cannot get a stump get a RR tie and bolt a stand together. They are about 12.00 each and work pretty good. You would have a solid stand that transfers the force directly back to the anvil face. I have used metal stands and prefer a good wooden one. Unless the metal is directly under the anvil to the floor. By the way, your fire pot looks great.

When you prep the weld are the edges pretty thin? If not, then the mass of the edge will crease the main beam and this is what you may be seeing. All outer edges on faggot welds need to be pretty thin.

I remember this one

I don't see how you are getting enough air without using a tremendous blast. I would try to find a cast iron floor drain at Lows or Tru Value. Your blast will not be restricted and the cast iron will not burn up as fast. Your clinker comes from the coke you are using. Coke made for smelting iron or for making steam will have more inorganic contents ie. dirt, rocks and sand. Personally, I prefer good soft bitumas coal over coke. The fire can be controled easier and won't go out. But you have to use what you can get. The more open the grate is the more control you have over the heat. Volume is prefered over pressure.

I have use them to make rustic overhead lights. Use a big one hanging over a smaller one. Add 4 to 6 candle holders or light sconces. Use forged chain or dog bones for hanging and seperation. Forge ivy leaves and vines or grapes and grape leaves. Oak leaves and acorns work also.

Good on you, buddy. Grandkids are great. Mine is 3 now and has his own tongs and hammer

I agree with the 1st post. Very nice work.

Thank you all for your kind words. i never know what to do when I make something like this. Up to now all of my effort has been in useful items

Some things I have been working on and finally finished

If you use chain saw bar oil it will stick to the gears and bearings and not drip off as badly as regular lubrecating oil

Years ago I used a hair drier, and while it got the job done I didn't really care for it. Since then I have used a heater blower and a forced draft blower. Both with dampers. I think I had a better blast with the hair drier. By better I mean softer. By far. for me is a good double plate bellows and second best is any of the hand crank forge blowers. You can control the blast much better if you are doing it by hand because it makes you concentrate on the heat especially if you are forge welding. As far as using the air mattres pump I don't think that the volume you need will be there. Look at the difference in outlet size

I have just tried Guilders paste on some chilie peppers. After cleaning with a rotery scotch brite in the drill press and washing with mineral spirits, I let them soak in the sun until the ms evaporated. Using just a dap of a coral red and a few drops of mineral spirts to thin, I applied it to the metal. It spreads evenly and quickly. A little goes a long way. It does not seem to like smooth metal. I did not pickle, but should have to rough up the surface. I did go back and apply a second coat, which did "stick" better to the slick steel. It left a very light red translucent finish after polishing with a clean cotten cloth by hand. It has a hard finish that does not rub off and stays in the low areas with good high lites. I then did the stems with a green copper. The stems had been wire brushed and had a rough finish. The thined paste "stuck" better on the rough finish. Tomorrow I will finish some lilies that I acid cleaned. After washing in clear water I left them in the sun to dry. They will rust slightly over night. I will see if the pickle finsh will take the color better. Pictures tomorrow

Tried Johns blog. could not make comment. got fatial error. Need contact in formation, specs, prices on 75 to 100lb hammer. Thanks Gene Bland bland2879@yahoo.com www.backwoodsblacksmith

T1 is tough stuff. It is not armour plate but is an alloy steel used in the heavy equipment industry. It is commonly used in dozer frames and arms. Lots of chrome and molylibdumium[?] Can be cut with a torch and is machinable. Pre heat and post heat aftre welding

I have just gotten around to reading the old posts. Hurt my hammer hand and can't work at the forge. As a machinist in real life, I have to tell you what a great job you did designing your dies. Nice work. As for the application, I see the potential for more than just snake tails. I have just started using dies in my work and it sure beats doing it one hammer blow at a time. I have found that dies designed for one thing may oftern be used for another. The time saved and the skill level needed to accomplish the deed go hand in hand. Great idea and great job

Now that is what i am talking about. Has anyone one used gilders paste? That also looks intresting. Thank you mcbruce

Check out the Nimba Forge line of anvils. Plus made in America

Over the yearsI have finished all of my work either with paint[black] or linseed oil. I have just gotten into the art side and am unhappy with 'paint'. My garden art is painted with bright colors which I don't mind but cannot decied on a satisfactory finish for art work and sculpture. I want to show that the work is metal but needs some type of shading for high lites. Any ideas would be apprecited.

Way too hot. use magnate to check for critical temp

Please explain your heat treat method. Is this an old rasp or fairly new? I heard that newer rasps and files were surface hardened with little carbon in the steel. Reguardless, very nice blade.

I have used the AK- 47 bayonet several times. I have made 3 sword canes using them and a socket bayonet for a Brown Bess musket. The long 1903 or the Enfield bayonet make good sword type bayonets.

Thanks for the information