Mikey98118

So, why would a larger funnel create more spin than a smaller one? Becuase of the laws of vortical flow. The greater the difference between the large diameter of the funnel entrance and the small diameter of the funnel exit the greater the velocity of spin in the air/gas mixture.

I recommend Frosty's "T" burners in this kind of forge, because it is the only really hot flame that is also soft; as in SHORT. So read everything you can about his burners, and listen to what he tells you about how to mount them and tune them.

If you simply must use furnace cement, then try hard to come up with some grog to mix into it.

Maximum Spin I used to think that the primary concern with air openings was to make them large enough; that turns out to be ridiculously easy. Instead, the primary thing about them is that they provide enough spin. Lately, I have warned people about holding the diameter of funnels at three times the inside diameter of a burner's mixing tube. But what about funnels on regular linear burners, without impeller fans mounted on them? Then three to one should be considered a minimum; not a maximum ratio; why? To create greater spin. Jet-ejector burners also create spin through their side air opening or openings, which is why I now advise people to use three air openings on Mikey burners, rather than going for a greater number. Three openings will give the maximum spin. Maximum spin gives maximum mixing of the fuel gas and incoming air; and that has much to do with how good its flames are.

Schedule #40 Pipe (standard water pipe) is generally cheaper and more accessible than steel tubing. If you use "seamless" grade pipe, one pipe will fit within another with some power sanding. If you want to cut down on sanding, choose zinc coated pipe, and burn it in a fire, or soak it overnight in vinegar to leach the coating away; the part will get thinner so that it should slide over a smaller pipe with little or no sanding. Tubing must commonly be mail ordered, but comes in such a wide variety of wall thickness that power sanding can usually be avoided; once again, be sure to use "seamless" grade.

Ya got me.

I first choose Kast-O-lite 30 becuase of its insulative value, which is quite good for a high temperature refractory. But, I kept on using it because of all the hidden pluses that don't appear in its advertising.

When I write to you, it is with all our "silent partners" in mind; so now it will be visa versa

To begin with, Burners 101 and Forges 101 are written with the expectation that you will go your own way; This is why there is so much written about the why of things, rather than just the how-to of things How well will your flame nozzles work? Light them up and send us a photo. BUT, you should know that the cost of stainless tubing parts from metalsonline.com depend on size; the larger the costlier the smaller the cheaper; a 1/2" burner will have cheap parts. Stainless steel pipe is cheaper than stainless steel tube. Use a 1/2" schedual#40 pipe from your hardware store for the burner's mixing tube, a 3/4" pipe for the spacer tube, and you can then buy a 1" stainless steel pipe dirt cheap for the flame nozzle. All three parts will fit together with minor power sanding. You may decide to slit the spacer tube for convenient fit-up. Furthermore, most of their supplies can be cut to size, saving a lot of money on both parts and shipping.

Yes, I think you are.

I can also add, that when put together properly, this burner makes a very short flame for its size. What has always stopped my interest in it is the internal strainer needed in its flame nozzle; I figure that to be a very short-term part. If someone came up with a more acceptable alternative, this could be a good burner.

The exact sizes of hip flask funnels can only be measured once a particular funnel comes, but in general, they are about 1-5/16" inside diameter in the large opening to 5/16" outside diameter on their small tubes. Odbiouslythis is over the strongly recommended 3:1 difference. What to do? nothing forces you to match its large opening with the fan mounting plate; that and the parallel portion of the funnel will protect any burner made with these flask funnels from over high back pressure. The real limit for these parts is that they are only a practical part for 1/8" burners, but for this size, they save a lot of work. For other miniature burners, cake tips may be indicated.

So far, I've read one guy who seems to get good results with this design; he insist that the right angle turn before the flame nozzle must be made with hard cut angles; not pipefittings.

Kitchen utensils, including funnels, come in either 18: 8 or 18: 10 series stainless steel; the second number denotes the amount of chromium present. The lower chromium content of 18: 8 is better for silver brazing, so choose the “cheaper” 18: 8 material whenever you can. Cake decorating tips are the best general source for long funnel shapes on very small burners (all sizes up to 1/2”); they require brazing to coupling tubes, and to flat washers (as flanges) but are a superior shape to almost any other funnel source in these sizes, with the possible exception of the long cone side of Japanese style double jiggers, which only come in sizes for use on 3/8”, and 1/2” burners (see. Cake decorating tips (AKA tubes) are elongated metal cones; stainless steel air funnels from this source come in several sizes according to their small openings; the smallest hole is a #0, at 5/32”; a #1 is 3/16”; a #2 is 1/4”; a #3 is 5/16”; a #4 is 3/8”; a #5 is 7/16”; a #6 is 1/2”; a #7 is 9/16”; a #8 is 5/8”; and #9 is 11/16”. Base diameters (large openings) vary according to small hole size; rims are minimal, complicating fit-up a bit, but decorating tips are able to exactly line up with a variety of desired burner sizes.

Well it looks like the usual deal; his dog (burner design) may be loaded with fleas, but to him, It looks "just wonderful." I have seen this over and over again. I don't think these guys are deliberately lying; its just easy to be self-deluded when you don't have a clue about the subject to begin with. So, what do I see? A heavily reducing primary flame, and the beginning of a large secondary flame.

Use a set of torch tip cleaners to chick the jet for junk left over from the burner's construction.

Standard 1-3/8” diameter stainless steel (long) hip flask funnels have limited ease for mounting on small burners (1/4” or less); they are available through Amazon.com (refer to alternate sellers at the bottom of their page for better prices and shipping costs). Hip flasks have all the mechanical features, flanges, parallel sections, and exit tubes that make an SST very handy for use on larger burners; you can also find them for sale through eBay. The limits of their utility comes not from any mechanical lack of features, but simply from the problems involved in working with small parts. The "long" in the part description refers to the parallel section between its flange and the beginning of the cone section on this part, which is twice as wide as the distance on a standard flask. This added distance between the cone's backpressure will end in a safer burner.

The Aozitafunnel comes with a handle, as many kitchen funnels do; you don't want to cut it away. Your burner will end up with a length of copper fuel gas tube, some 12V wires, and a speed control, all of which will benefit from something to mount them to. So there you have the Formula One path, and the jalopy path; which is better? That's a personal question; you must answer that one for yourself.

The Aozita 18/8 Stainless Steel Spice Funnel Is a cheap and serviceable funnel choice on 3/4" Vortex burners, which can be pushed into a 3/4" pipe, and has just enough of a flange to serve; it has a 1" wide parallel portion before the angle portion of the tunnel begins to help safety by keeping back pressure some distance away from the fan, to add to the thickness of the fan plate. The funnel's large opening is 3-5/8" diameter, which is too large for safety, but nothing prevents you from cutting a smaller hole in the fan plate. But you will need to mount a fan with the most powerful motor you can find to keep all that ease and safety from weakening the burner's performance; nothing's for nothing And of course, the larger funnel only helps the performance of the burner for as long as you use it as a simple linear burner...for those who don't want to make the journey all the way to Vortex burner in on long go.

I think before you sand the guy off, all fat dumb and happy, to waste a few years pursuing coal forges, you could at least, mention Ron Reils forge pages, where the average newbie, who has been watching youtube has a chance to get himself turned around enough to ask sane questions here?

So, Mikey will cut to the chase, and save you a lot of needless reading. You have made a small box forge. Such a forge is simplest to heat with a single top-down facing burner. Without going into a long list of reasons why, Frosty's "T" burner will work best in any such forge, so forget the Burners 101 thread, and go state to his thread. Good luck. And, PLEASE position the burner toward the back of the forge--not the front! Now I'll be good and shut up.

The Rabbit wine funnel The Rabbit wine funnel finally came from Amazon.com today. I was right; it is an updated version of the old Metrokane wine funnel, with the one change that it has a standard opening, changing out the biased cut of its lip. This will force me to change sections of my 3/4" burner chapter; it has gone from a very good part option to a perfect part choice. I rarely get to feel so pleased with a new part. Also, the large opening is now 2-3/4" inside diameter; also just perfect for a 3/4" pipe Burner size

You can get K26 brick at reasonable prices and reasonable shipping from eBay. You don't always have to find stuff locally to do okay.

Actually, I think hot forging, or even cold hammering, on a stainless steel reducer fitting is well within the capabilities of even most newbies for up to 1/8" increased diameter without complications; stainless steel is just as much work to cold work as mild steel, but less effort; it moves so much better.

There is no doubt that 3D printing could do a fantastic job, as could conventional casting, and even lathe work. When I wrote my instructions it was plain that those who could pull off those techniques would also understand this. Basically, I write for beginners, whose dreams far exceed their reach This doesn't mean that I and others here won't greatly enjoy seeing what you make with advanced methods. So for the slow reply; there is something very nasty going around; took the wife and me down for three days. That should have read "Sorry..."