MLMartin

Im glad to see ya have your hammer running, I hope i can come by and see it some time over the holidays when im home!

Mackenzie

and after that we need to ride the bikes back up to the Mts

never herd of this brand, maker. how about posting a link to them if ya have one

looks like a sawyers anvil to me, but a recently made one, yes youll see many of the older ones that well taller with much more mass, this is because they were used to not only tune the saw blades, but to forge them as well, so you needed lots of mass for forging.

recent sawyers anvils are normally only used to tune or straighten saw blades, no forging because the saw is already cut out of thin sheet metal. so no need for all that mass, just a nice big flat and hard surface

but this is just my guess as i can not check how hard the thing is or look at it up close to see the sines of use

with the sad lack of common seance out there theses days i would be vary scared to sell anything thing that shoots. have no idea about price, but i hope you have some type of insurance and will be selling it as a "non functional historic replica"
it dose look really cool though, i hope to see pictures when your done! just make sure your not responsible after it leaves your hands

what i have done thats super simple on chucks for old drill presses is just get a new chuck thats femail threaded, put a grade 8 bolt in it, cut the head off then just "chuck" the new chuck in the old chuck, the old chuck was simpy a half inch hole with a set screw, so this was pretty easy, i did grind a little receving notch in the bolt for the set screw of the bolt

im thrilled to here he will be back up and running in less than a year! wouldent be the same here without him

More Pictures

Last night my Friend & I spend some time repairing a vice I picket up for her over the summer, unlike so many ive seen before where the leg has been cut off with oxy act torch this one actuality looks like it broke at a old forge weld. I had already forged a new leg out of some Wrought Iron under a power hammer just to save time. so we started with a vice with about 6in of leg reaming and a new leg. First we split about 1 3/4in of the old leg then forged a chisel point on the new leg. Then we aligned them together in the fire and took the first welding heat right in the forge. ( sorry no pictures of the welding, there was only two of us, so we both had out hands full ) This was done by me bracing the vice in the forge while she held on to the new leg & hammered it into the slit of the old leg, after the first few blows with a hand hammer she used a light sledge, the vice body & me acted like the anvil for the weld to work against. After we had it stuck I removed the vice from the fire & we worked the forge weld down over the anvil, I worked the vice and swung a hand hammer while she swung a sledge. after working it down we forged it in top and bottom dies to help round the leg. lastly a quick hot filing to clean up. When we finished I gave the vice to her, its her first!

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well it dident acutely follow me home, its found my home all on its own!!!



my new FREE welding helmet from Miller

won the thing from Built It Didn't Buy It contest, for all of yall that get the miller power click news letter i was the entry of the stainless steel fish scalier. hope yall voted for me so i can win the grand prize of the new welder! the helmet was just for me coming in the top 5

i bet that vice is made that way, ive seen a hand full of them come from over seas like that. seems to be a somewhat common thing lately

the line in the middle does not look like a weld to me, from the pictures i would surly say its cast iron, i do see the line from the top "plate" whether it is acutely a steel plate or just a clever line from casting i cant tell. with a simple spark test you'll know if its a steel face or not.

i use them often when striking, but when working a piece alone i have never used one.

just use any part of it you can, definitely don't scrap it or anything, if you never find anything good for it at least you will have a vary heave door stop. so just do anything you can, or set it in the corner of the shop, your libel to need it for something completely random in a year or so and will be happy its "just out back"
pretty ruff but i have seen a few anvils that were worse, still has some of the hardy and a horn, one fellow offered to sell me one that was hornless and healess and only had 1/4 the face. hahaha i had to decline.
but for free ill take most any anvil. maybe one day you and some friends will toss it into the forge and re weld a new face and some cunks to the back

at least it was free

i would not go with sand if you can, i think the best would be casting lead into the thing, lots heaver and it will not settle at the bottom like sand will

why dont you post a picture of your anvil and cut. many people get worried about smooth flat faces and horns and go through alot of trouble to "fix" them but normally only end up damaging the anvil instead. a few little cuts from a stray chisel with not likely show in your work. grinding or welding on the anvil is probably a really bad idea

well if it is a modern cast anvil there is a good chance that its cast tools steel, so you would not need to do any welding. why dont you post some pictures of your anvil, many folks can tell you alot about it just by looking at it

looks like a good anvil but dont buy it, looks pretty obvious that its a collector selling is, i think a fellow on this site acualy, all the collectors i see buy at super cheep and just jack the price up ridiculously high, wait till you find some one with one out in the barn or geradge, they will sell for a much more reasonable price, just showing pictures on this site ive had collectors send me e mails and bug me about trying to buy them from me when i still say not for sale, they just buy um up and sell um to folks desperate for an anvil. just as bad as most used car salesmen

ive just bought a old south bend lathe 13" swing 6' bed
the numbers
9508 TKX 14
CL 145 C
were stamped in it, so i see its something around 70 years old, from the site information. just wondering if anyone knew a good guess of weight of this size lathe, and if there are any good books or manuals on it. most of the plates that tell of the thread cutting or power feed on it are gone. also any recommendations for a good beginner book on lathe work.

my experience gos little farther than boring holes and shaving down the sides to thin the work

thanks for any tips


PS there seems to be 4 speed settings, any idea about what speeds these will be?

South Bend Lathe, bought it for 500$ 13" swing 6' bed

I would guess at Peter Wright as well, kinda just looks like it it covered with grease, wich would be a good thing as it would help to prevent move rust, but definitely looks like a great anvil to me, if it is 240lb like they say 500 would be little over 2 a pound, not a bad price, edges look pretty good to, but personally i will not buy an anvil with out getting to see it in person first, i always bring a little half pound hammer with me and give it good little hits all over the face, you can tell realy quickly when the face it broken or no good, and most people laugh at my little hammer and dont mind me hittin the anvil with it because its so small.

the price is a little high, they should be going down some in the past year but dont seem to be

good luck

there is a big difference between Hard and Tough, let me try and explain. a steel that will hold a vary sharp edge has to be rather hard, so that the fine thin blade edge will not where away to quickly, this blade that is super sharp and holds a good edge is brittle on the blade and still some what brittle throughout the whole blade, if you hit it with a hammer it will surly snap, something that is though would be a good hammer, this can take a great amount of shock stress. like hitting a hard anvil all day, but this is not vary hard, if it was it would crack and break after hitting, but its vary tough. so something vary hard will take a good edge and resist any deformation, but is brittle, something that is vary tough will take a great amount of shock stress, like hammering. im sure this fellows knife could take alot of abuse but even if sharpened greatly the edge would dull quickly to a blunt end. TI was made to take great loads and stresses that would normally bend and deform other metals, and to have great corrosion resistance, also pretty light

sooo to say all this i have started seeing many divers knifes made out of TI but most divers use there knife to dig in the sand and to break coral and shells, so more of a pry bar than a knife. but in the end im sure ya can make one out of TI, just dont plan on it holding a great edge, but im sure it will look offal pretty, and I like many others would like to see it if ya make it

Good Luck

i would like to see the items posted here on I Forge Iron

people that have been there before, This will be my first time. I mailed in the money for my family, though the sine up form was terribly confusing, the thing was written horribly, but i talked with some fellow on the phone and finally sent in all the right amount of money. but my question for yall is should i be expecting my tickets in the mail or will my name simply be on a list at the gate, i have received nothing at all in the mail from them and the conference it pretty soon.

sounds great!!!