MLMartin

ive herd of haming metal hot to, but when i herd the story it had 2 strikers wailing on a bar, i dont think i could heat a bar to the point of burning paper by myself

there is a few post about rust removal in Blueprints, that would help greatly in working the vice, but if you want to go about it kinda cheep just soke the movible parts of the vice in Penetration oil and let them sit overnight, then move it just a little bit at a time, quarter turn one way then back, if you force a rusted part fully open in one go you could brake something, just work it back and forth moving a little at a time

sorry guys none of yall need to buy tickets for the raffle, i already bought the winning ticket when i was taking class's a few months ago, hahaha

im just Joking, yes everyone make sure to buy some ticket's, i love going to cambell and cant wate for the new shop!

i have a handful of bought hammers, my mane smithing hammer if a sweedish cross peen from Kane and Son, great hammer, but recently I've started making my own hammers, when you make your own hammers they come out the right shape and size ya want, haha because you make them of course, but when i make hammers they don't come with fiberglass handles, so woods pretty much the only choice for me, but I'm kinda cheep all my handles are made from old handles of things like sledges and axes, now and then i miss a chisel strike and it takes a good chunk of wood handle out, but woods easy to replace, fiberglass it hard to replace,

there are ceramic tiles that will take the heat, they use tiles to sheald heat from the spaceship intering orbit, but i have no idea what kind of tile that would be, or if it could take coal dust and clinker, haha i had another idea, even crazyer, some welders use watercooled tables, you could wrap copper pipe around the firepot and pump water though, haha there is a million ways to ceep cool, being a welder myself i tend to come across alot of Good ones, and even more Bad ones, good luck

thats on fancy clinker breaker you made, looks like a great forge, im in the middle of making a second forge for a family member, i think ill try that clinker breaker you made, i though that having a thin walled forge would be a problom when i made mine, most forges i had used had inch thick cast iron pots, mines 1/2 inch plate and 3/8's. round clinker breaker, after some work ive seen that this is a good thickness, and 1/4 sould be fine to, if it dose seem to get to hot you could put a thin lining of clay in it, or strap on some aluminum plates to the outside of the pot to sink heat too, or if you realy want to go all out you might try welding fins onto the outside of the firepot and running some kind of air flow(fan) across it, just like a good old air cooled motorcycle. sadly i havent fired mine up yet, still no hood or legs for the table, workin on the hood right now, need to buy steel for legs
been running my gas forge for about 3 years

haha that was the Idea!

i bet if i picked it up and run off with it no one would stop me!

must be some torch, cuting 4 inch that smooth, im sure that pice of equipment cost a doller or two!

not quight sure, i can tell it was cut with a robitic plasma arm, but it just looks like the left over cutting from some kind of wheel

its a federal offence, dont get caught

but i know a hand full of people that have called into local railyards and gotten scraps for free

thanks guys, I have considerd making the new yoke and kinda want to, but will try to fix the original, its a friends bell and has sintamintal value (sorry i cant spell). so im hoping to repair it, but if my weld fails ill forge a new yoke

ok so whos ever welded cast iron, i have a yoke for a bell to fix, the brake is a flat space about 4 inches wide, i know i will need to heat it up slowly to about 600, then weld with cast iron rods, then slowly cool, im just asking if theres any little tips, or maybe even brass braze it up, have lots of welding time under my belt, but have never brazed or welded cast iron, the yokes large about 18 - 24 inch's across, havent seen the bell but with the large yoke i am asuming its big

yes i belong to Alex bealer, been going for a few years, also belong to ocmulgee, don't always make it to those ones, kinda far away. and your right I'm more likely to get a job at a fabrication shop that also dose some blacksmithing, i love working metal and have no problem welding or repairing items. i always talk with the guys in my gilds, I'm just simply putting my name out some where else, always looking for new opportunities

jake2431 wair in GA are you?

can you post a picture of them

if you use a butcher to cut into your stock, lets say 1.5" square, cut in from all four sides curve facing down, only cut in .25" per side, then you can forge down the curved butcher side till its the same size as the butcherd down area. this will give you a nice 1" shank and since you butcherd it you will have a flat lip that sits on the anvil face, then its just to forging what ever kind of top you want on it

im in Gwinnett, just North East of atlanta,
and even if its not a job its alwase good to have friends, i prefer to work in a shop with other people, blacksmithing can get pretty hard without a extra hand or two. yes apprenticesships are hard to find, its more likely ill find a job in a shop with a few other guys all workin under a Professional smith.

i am just about to start selling some of my work, its still pretty hard for me to make money with how slow my work is, lacking some of the tools to speed up my work

Hello
Mack Martin, ive been forging for about 3 years, been workin in shops for longer. I strive to become a professional smith one day. In the last year I have been learning to weld at a local college. I take classes up at Campbell when ever I can, only 6 under my belt so far. I have my own small shop at home and forge often. I belong to the two gilds in GA (my home state). I

so i just about have my first coal forge done, small table, only 20" by 30", and im sorta wundering what kinda hood/chimny i sould use. ive been to campbell a hand full of times so have used the side drafts, i know they work well. but i have a little fuss with how close it needs to be to the fire and have that makes a wall right next to the forge so limits space a little. i want to go with a hood but not realy sure just how i want to make it, just thought i would ask everyone how theres is done, any good ideas that worked well, or any "good ideas" that failed miserably. would love to see pictures

you dont need electricity to get a finger or shirt caught in a flywheel of a crank forge, drill press, or flypress. and let my tell you, those little gears on the old drill presses hert!