MLMartin

hey sam do you forge the beveled edge any or simply grind the entire thing to shape

look around the site, there is a lot of information on here about this topic, no need for a new post

have seen that good pictures, i think ill just buy a big sack of corn and try it

ive seen how people use corn, will some one elaborate on this. im assuming that it is simply dried corn from a feed store?

140-150# unnamed London
70# Vulcan
250# cast steel gear

hope this is not a repost, seen all the other show me your, but i dont think there is a treadle hammer one

wow, how did you raise the cross so high, i would have torn the metal, vary good, im impressed

hey guys I am wondering where everyone buys powdered steel and stainless, i have spent a little while on the internet looking and cant find anything any for sale, just info on it, i will be trying some forge welding with it, love the stainless steel damascus knives and rings

Sweet!, so your making that one for me right?

yes im hoping to find a used one but no luck so far, only one ive found was in FL for 3000

i was wondering if anyone could tell me the pitch of some of the larger fly presses, or if theres some formula for the wight of the head vs screw diameter vs thread pitch. i am looking into the possibility of making a fly press, welding up a base, arm, and ram guide are no problem. but i have not clue what type of screw to use, i imagine i would have to have it turned out on a lathe, along with the receive for the arm. i know that is quight steep. could the screw be perched from McMaster ccarr?

when you cut and shape the steel your more than likely to loose the temper any way, if you cut it with a torch then the temper is gone, use a plasma the temper is gone, cut it with a cutting wheel and it will heat up, unless you cut really really slow, then yo would have to grind the edge, and unless you ground really slow you would loose the temper, and since you said that you have already been beating it with a hammer there is probably micro fractures in the steel,(most springs don't like hard impact) springs do make great knives , but not at a spring temper(blue), they have to be re temped to a straw color at the edge

yes you can run a cut with only oxy after the cut is started, on 1/2" i have cut 4 or 5" but thats about it, vary hard to hold my hand that steady, if you jerk at all you loose the cut, good practice, also some times when im forging and i need to remove a little metal i grab my torch and just jet out OXY since my steel is already red hot

i have made a few hammers out of old wagon axle, have no clue what there made of, show a fair amount of carbon sparks when grond

so hows your anvil holding, i have a poor old 70lb volcen, that some one did alot of cutting on, only one little chip that goes down deep enough to reach the cast iron, about 3/8 deep 1/2 long on a edge, but all over the anvil theres little cuts no deeper than 3/32 but a lot of them and they drive me nuts, i tig a lot at work, and hope to pic one up for my own shop soon, plan to try what you did to work on my anvil

hey i have a propane forge ive been using it for about 3 years, and the burners on it stink, i mean pretty bad, did not know what i was doing when i made them, i have lurned alot about them since then, i plan on making some new ones now and want to build something similar to the T rex burners, i can see that it has a 3/4 neck, about 9 - 10 in long, also that it its lathed at the air intake, the bell that reduces to the neck, then welded to a larger pipe that has fore slotted holes, it has a sliding air cover, that back cap it just welded on, but how dose the back intake tighten to the little gas jet, its some kind of fitting that shrinks as it scrues in, and what type of tip is in the burner, a mig tip, what size, dose anyone have the blue prints to this burner?, i would like to just buy one for the man that makes it but an pretty hard on money

so how many people out there use hammers without handles?
haha, rather strange, considering they put handles on all there garden tools, but not on hammers

i use 4 springs on my hammer, they are 15 doller grade door springs from home depot, 140 lb pull, 2 springs actually, but they are cut in half so 4

ive herd that you can weld aluminum with OA but have never seen it, ill have to try it, any tips, ive brazed and welded thin stuff like 3/32 but thats it

thank you to everyone that makes this site great, the man who makes the site and the people who give answers and ideas!

ok ive tempered a hand full of chisels and fullers and knives, all of them i would anneal in sand, then harden in oil, then heat up again and run the colors until i got the color i wanted and then quench in oil, well i am now making a anvil tool for my treadle hammer, 1" by 4" by 6" block with a hardy shank attached, to drop in the tool post, what im wondering is how to temper it, i annealed it in my forge for a few hours to real the stress it had for welding on the shank, then i hardened it in water, some kinda of low tool steel not quight sure what but some carbon, it hardened alright, a file would only cut into it a little bit, well with how large it is i was going to do the last temper by putting it into the oven at about 540 for a hour or two, i will monater the temp with a good thermometer, my question is sence i will not be bringing the already hardened tool above 540 is there any reason to quench it when its sat at that temp for a long time, sould i just let it cool down in the oven, or do i still need to quench it?

good to see your hammer sam, i made mine about 3 weeks ago

this is a good idea, i hope some one looks into it more, i just beveled a horn all the way to a point and stick welded it on to a anvil, and let me tell you, that took allot of time and stick rods!

i wish i had not forget about that one, im only 10 miles away

pleaseeeeeeeeeeeee, haha i just about have my tredal hammer all done