JimG

check out http://www.iforgeiron.com/Blueprints01/BP0133_55forge/BP0133.shtml for plans on how to build a forge from a 45 gallon barrel. The smoke a forge creates is more dependant on the fuel and fire control skill of the operator than forge design. Now the hood that carries said smoke away is a different story. And NEVER EVER EVER call your shop a "garage" the next thing you know after calling it that someone will want to park a car in it! What part of Canada you in?

Way to go Archie! One more little thing. Before you fire the forge for the first time, (or any other time for that matter) go and look in the mirror. And the person you see looking back at you is the person responsible for keeping you safe. Then look at your set up and figure out every thing that you can think of that could go wrong, and then plan for it. When I started doing buggy and wagon restoration my Dad told me to over build, when things go wrong you can't shut a horse off with the flip of a switch. A forge is the same way. I'm not saying this to discourage you, I do want you to go out and play with fire, just don't want you getting burned, hurt someother way, or worse. So keep at it!

You can't turn an eye without a round horn? I guess I've never turned an eye then. Nor have the shipships in the video clip when they were forging the eyebolts for Bluenose II. Scarf Using the edge of the anvil make a 45

What sort of charcol are you using? If it's the pressed briquet type for BBQ's it's not the best for forgework. Although I have used it.

Done, The loss of a young one is so hard.

I'm actualy suprised he mentioned the grinder.........

Strine, I think he has one of those new Harbour Freight (or the like) anvils. The horn on them isn't cone shaped but sort of flat and wide looking like duck bill

Make a bick to fit in the hardy hole, Use a U in either the hardy hole or the vise, Use ratnose tongs, (rat nose tongs with the jaws bent at 90

Dave Manzer does a demo on feathers in his latest power hammer video. He starts with angle iron that he opens up/flattens I think he uses a bottom swedgeso he doesn't totaly flatten the spine. Hope this helps.

What's the timeline on this Glenn?

"anything we can do to help?" The first words I remember of Pawp's to me in the pub. We had chatted before on different things so he wasn't a stranger. When it came to asking for advice on different things when my Dad was nolonger around to ask it took four men to fill his shoes. Pawp, was one of those four. There was NOTHING I ever had second thoughts asking him about. What else can I say? Grant unto him eternal rest, May the perpetual light shine upon him May he rest in peace, Amen

Good idea Glenn, Sounds like it would be a nice project for a young smith who has some guidance nearby to tackle. Think your lad would be interested it it?

My sledge and hammer lie reclined, My bellows too have lost their wind; My fires extinghished, my forge decayed, And in the dust my vise is laid. My iron's spent, my coals are gone, THe last nail's drove, my work is done.

What do you mean "April Fool" Ed? That obviously is a TARDIS (Time And Relative Dimentions In Space) :lol:

At 1800hrs or 6 pm what ever your local time is Chuck. Lets keep it going daily at that time until Paw-paw is back. My appoligies to everyonelse I didn't mean to exclude you. Just from what he's mentioned on the Rosary in his story "The Revolutionary Blacksmith" and from stuff we've talked about I know Paw-paw has a special place in his heart for it.

For those of you who are Catholic please join me in saying a Rosary for Paw-Paw, his family etc. at 1800 hours, Thursday May12th, your local time. Jim Gerlinsky

Bruce, Check out http://www.blacksmithforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=138 for forge plans made from a 45 gallon barrel

When cutting mulitples of different lengths, cut the longest ones first, and then process them, so that if you hoop one you can salvage it for a shorter peice. If you hoop one of the shorter peices......... It's just to bad for you! :wink:

Not sure where else to post it so I figured here would be good. I've been flattening 1/2"round for scroll ends (91 times). I like them to flare about an inch wide. My power hammer just has plough dies in it. It takes me 3 heats to get the end like I want. 2 under the PH and one on the anvil with the hand hammer. I can do it in one under the PH but I get a more consitant result taking my time and the extra heat. To get the shape I want I first flatten from one side, and the flipside on the second heat. Finaly we're getting to my quick tip. So I know instantly with out trying to remember I make a mark on the rod with a peice of soapstone And then every time, the mark is up when the rod is in the fire, I do the mark up first time, and do this the same way EVERY time.

A side draft is the easiest thing to build. One of the simplest is just an opening cut in the side of a piece of pipe and then reinforced with some flat iron. And your fire is out in front of the hood so you have open space on top and 3 sides. The couple times I've worked under a full bell hood it has been in the way for anything big. There also are plans for a more elaborate side draft hood on line someplace. Someone here will know where they are.

Give serious look at a side drawing hood elkdoc. I've never seen an over head hood on a coalforge that actualy works unless it has power assist on the venting. There are those here who will explain it better, but it's my understanding that a big hood has too much of an opening and takes too much cold air with it to draw correct.

Thanks for the update Sheri, Tell Jim we're pulling for him, you, and the doctors and techs.

Do you guys have any ideas on forging under canvas? I'm setting up a portable SCA smithy for camping event's and trying to figure out a sun/wind shade. I have a couple 19 foot long by 42 inch wide swather canvas I was thinking of using as walls to shelter the forge from wind. And I have a 5'7" x 11'6" canvas tarp I was thinking of making a roof from. Space as in the foot print, and in packing is at a bit of a premium, but reasonable. It usualy is way too bright and hot during the day to safely forge outside during camping season. My forge is a rivet forge with short legs so it's just up off the ground and I work in a sitting position. I will probaly be burning coal, not charcol. I'd love to set up a forge with just a bit of rock and a hole in the ground, but most of the sites I camp at frown on fires directly on the ground. I never light the forge until I have at least a five gallon pail of water handy, and I usualy keep a rag in the tub to batt out any grass fires.

All works as normal (well what passes for nomal here) for me. Try a power down power bar turned off, unplugged from the wall shut down. Power off to the modem as well if your running DSL or the like.

Chokecherry forge is named after the chokecherrybushes that hold the back wall of the shop in place. Well, that's the story I tell them who don't know me well enough. :wink: