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You could do a collar weld if you want to build up a large rivet head, it's one of the easiest forge welds. Then just forge it to shape with...hammer and vise, hammer and bolt heading plate, swage block and monkey tool....
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Go to a bigger forge and get a couple of strikers, THAT"S a good time!
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If you were gonna buy a new anvil...
Macsen replied to space hammer's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Happy with my Peddinghaus 75 Kg anvil (160#) that I bought for portability. Very hard face, nice shape, really like the double horn design. Rings like a bell l l l l l l l l l. -
John Wilkinson (?) Anvil Picked Up Today
Macsen replied to fordmustangbrad's topic in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
I have a 230 pound Wilkinson. says Queens Cross on the side. It's in a little better shape. Bought it from an old fellow for $35 but he said to buy it I had to take it right then. From his basement, and no, I couldn't go and get help or a hand truck, right now or never, I did it, one step at a time, and slid it down his front hall on an upside down car floor mat. -
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Sixth Annual Fort Klock Blacksmiths’ Gathering and Hammer-in June 7th and 8th, 2014 10 AM to 4 PM each day 7214 St. Hwy. 5 St. Johnsville, New York 13452 Come one and all to the sixth annual Fort Klock Blacksmiths’ Gathering and Hammer-in! This weekend event will be held in the 1811 Blacksmith Shop on the grounds of Historic Fort Klock on Saturday the 7th and Sunday the 8th of June. Attend for an hour, or make it a weekend. Admission is FREE The Fort Klock Blacksmith Shop is part of historic Fort Klock, a revolutionary war historic site. The Blacksmith Shop is an early 1800’s sto
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What do you wish you knew before using a Gas Forge?
Macsen replied to SpankySmith's topic in Gas Forges
40# or larger with a 20# backup -
What do you wish you knew before using a Gas Forge?
Macsen replied to SpankySmith's topic in Gas Forges
I added an "enonomizer" from the tank I have a regulator, a 1/4 turn ball valve (#1) , then a tee. one leg of the tee has a needle valve set for lighting and "idle" the other leg has a 1/4 turn ball valve (#2). both legs tie back together and feed into the burner manifold. This lets me open the first ball valve (#1)and light the burner without too much FUN. The the other ball valve (#2) is then opened to heat the stock. Just before I pull it out, I close the #2 ball valve, and the forge goes to "idle" using less fuel and making it easier to manipulate the stock in and out of the forge -
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