the iron dwarf

buy it nows on ebay from 900 uk pounds, can deliver, auctions for less for a 20 foot long one

here in the uk they are more likely to be rusty than warped, they often have a few dents but that is all

they are made of corten steel that is not too bad for rust but check what it is like before buying as the floors sometimes rot out. hot in summer and cold in winter and noisy all the time. you should be able to get them for less than 2 grand, fix the forge on the outside under a roof if you can, the anvil is more of a problem but I would not fix it to the door

hi Vampire Archer and welcome, yes it is me here and thank you for all the hard work you did. you will also find Dave Budd on here sometimes. have a read and see what you can learn here, ask questions and maybe you will get a sensible answer and learn a lot more. look out for events in your area and meet a few more people from here

thanks monst, just trying to think of things in advance whilst we wait

further looking at high temp sleeving I have seen a product called cool blue that it is claimed in one place will be ok at 3000 degrees F but on the same site the maximum temp is also quoted as 2000 degrees F. though this is not needed on the coil it could help prevent shorting out which I seen here on a picture of several windings on a coil glowing white hot or accidentally touching the coil with the work, I also thought of possibly using a ceramic tube with the coil wound around it. I do a lot of small stuff about 1/2" round and square where I just need to heat the 3" at the end and at the moment use a coke forge which works fine but is slower and heats a lot more up than just the work ( not so good on a really hot day ) and takes a while to get going. if a sleeve or tube can keep a lot of the radiated heat from the work away from the coil I think coils may last longer ( dont know how long they last if using them a lot or how much work the cooling system has to do but if you were heating for 5 seconds out of every 30 with several people thats a lot of heat, done fast work before with 3 people a power hammer and an anvil before when a lot of things had to be made fast ).

on insulating sleeving you might want to look into using Kevlar, that withstands great temperatures I think, does anyone know what it will take or if it is available in a sleeve form

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was not sure if this project had gone the way of the monty python parrot after the long break, glad to see some hope of light at the end of the tunnel. I would like to know how easy it would be to run on other supplies like here in the uk we have 240v single phase ( most domestic sockets are 13a but in industry we use bigger ) and 3 phase is 440v ( mine is 32a per phase ), all of them at 50 Hz. europe has similar to us I think but at slightly lower voltages, maybe 220v

was good, i learnt a few things and got a few new ideas, met Dave ( who is knowledgeable and helpful ).

I will seek him out and mention your name

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in a well ventilated shop it would be possible to get a breeze of CO2 or similar, should not need a great deal and could be done through a solenoid valve like on a mig welder so it only operates when the heat is on and then only if wanted. you could use an old mig torch just connected to the gas line in order to direct the gas where wanted and have a relay on your foot switch or whatever you are using to turn the heat on to operate the solenoid valve at the same time. dont know if it is needed

I have ball bearings up to 4" diameter and make them into tools but am the other side of the pond

I will give you $5 for the bridge if you can deliver it

asking local businesses for help was not the best way, asking here would have got you a solution easily and quickly and probably much cheaper. a few years ago I was after something, ball bearings and big ones at that, I wanted to place an order worth about 1000 uk pounds ( about 1500 Us$ ) and spent 6 months searching. no one wanted to deal with such a small order and after checking all around the UK, europe and then going further afield I found the nearest place that wanted to consider it was in Prague,

will try that, thank you john maybe there are others in my area who would also like to know about events without travelling 250 miles, maybe even arrange something.

nothing within 50 miles or maybe further from NN14 1QF ?

call em Renvils if you want, and a few people have laughed at them but for something you can pick up with one hand they work, and when I take them to an event I dont often bring them home again. I hope M G gets his anvil and posts some pictures of his work

I have made anvils from wear parts of ploughs and a section of fork lift tine, they are not very heavy but they work well and are popular the table on them is about 8" long 4" wide and 2" thick and is fork lift tine, the horn and body is the working park of a 'mole plough' or 'subsoiler' and is very hard, the socket in the back end takes the 20mm square stake tools I make.

im not a member ( yet, but will join at the years end ), was wondering if any events were in my area as it seems most are in the south west. im only a beginner and self taught, OK I share a workshop with a blacksmith so have picked up a few things and mainly make things useful to reenactors. anyone have an suggestions? Dave

whilst i wait for more news here I am going to try a few things myself with a 2kw single hotplate I just bought on ebay

have just bought a single induction hob, will open up the case and see if I can disconnect the thermostat in it and / or replace the coil to try a few things whilst awaiting developments on other things. its a 2kw

I would be very interested in one of these, I do make coke forges and sometimes use them, most things I make are the same 2 items out of 12mm round and square ( 1/2" to you americans ) and need only to heat the end 75mm ( 3" ), it would save a lot of time lighting up the forge if I suddenly need to make a couple. here in the UK we have 240v 50Hz mains power and I also have 3 phase 415v

got this recently 22.5" long 112lbs has the following on both sides KL 40 X is cast with hardened table at work we have a much larger one that looks the same and with KL on it but no numbers. anyone know who the maker could be or any other info?