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Posts posted by joshua.M
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I have considered charcoal but the problem is i cannot make it because of a burn ban, and it is $15/4kg and 1 bag lasts me an hour $$$$$$$$$$, i am 14 so no beer lol
kevin i have considered that, then i looked at the prices OUCH.
mark, its not the farm i need to worry about,its the school :/
glenn i will be sure to post the pics as soon as i can get them.
-Josh -
So, i run a coal forge and have been having a hard time getting coal, I am wondering, when you are low/out of fuel (if you ever are) what kind if work do you do to keep busy. I already have cleaned my small shop, organized my tools, painted my tongs to identify them, organized my stock, cleaned the floor and done any and all repairs. What else can i do to stay busy in my shop without fuel?
Josh -
it is a peter wright made after 1910, the ledges on the feet means peteer wright, and the holes in the ledges means after 1910.
josh -
the coal from home hardwear is $59/70lb bag and most home hardwears dont want to order it because its not worth their while
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How do you 'change' from coal when you have told us in the chat, that you dont have a forge yet?
i never said that? i have a coal forge but no coal -
i am thinking of changing to a gasser because coal here in canada is scarce and expensive i just need to find burner plans
josh -
there is some very nice knives in that collection I once tried to make one and realized how hard it really is, lots of skill go into making these
-josh -
i use coke and it was sooooooooooo good
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So th story starts that i was hungry out in the shop and didn't want to have to put out the forge then go cook and eat and come back to the shop and light up the coal again, so i went to the cupboard and i had peanut butter honey and rye bread so i made a peanut buter and honey sammich and heated by putting it on a cleaned scroll and heated it over the fire so i want to hear your storys of cooking in or on the forge gas or coal dosnt matter
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What do you put on your hammer handles?
I have been putting my linseed oil mix and it seems to seal, smooth, and add extra grip.
I would like something darker though. Not that it should matter, but I like to look at a dark hammer handle. It just feels more used. Maybe it makes me feel like I have actually been using them.
LOL try ebony handles -
Ya i quess i'll just leave it , thought it would be nice to bring it back to new condition.it is handy for straightening stuff.
lol i told you so! that is a nice anvil cant tell what it is but it may be a columbian
-josh -
i learned a trick from work that you put some water in (5:1 medium to water) and it will keep dust down and helps polish it too
-josh -
Well i have no pics of it but mine is a square 2x4 construction like a log house filled with sand a litle taller than needed so as i grow i can add sand and raise the anvil its 2x4s are horizontal and screwed together each level and on each side there is 2 vertical borads that i screwed flay bar across to hold hammers and tongs it weighs about 300lbs full annd my 186lb peter wright barley rings with how it deadens the ring, I have a question; would spruce make good anvil stands? because we cut down 4 BIG spruce trees (100' tall and 4' diameter) so i have tons on big logs i just need to cut them up if they will work that is. :blink:
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wow i love your shop when i get rich and fmus im gonna own a huge shop and huge anvil and play around in it lol
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Yes I did see them. His damascus spurs on his web site are amazing enough. I spoke with another blacksmith last night regarding making a monkey tool for the tenon/mortice joint for building the californio style like the Garcia spurs are/were made. I haven't tried that yet. I am like you, I do it on the weekends, as well as rawhide braiding, horseshoeing, and way too many extracarriculars that my wife complains about. I met a spur maker in a couple weeks ago that puts over 200 hours into one pair, lots of carved silver work. The most time I've taken on a pair is about 8 hours. I think rules for this contest should be established regarding tools used. This is a blacksmithing forum, therefore limit the tools, just my not so humble opinion. Meaning, eilinate the water and plasma cutters.
plasma and watercutters are not alllows but O/A torches are -
Just out of curiosity, would cast buttons or rowels be okay, or do they have to be completely by hammer, chisel, and tong?
they must be forged, they are not hard to make, rowel is round stock cisled, buttons are made like rivets -
the first one is a farrier's anvil it is in nicer shape obviously but it will only do lighter work, the second one will be nicer in the long run
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We have an idea that we need some kinnks that need to be worked out, but we are hoping to have some of the spurd donated to a silent auction to raise funds for this amazing site. Donating your spurs will not be required but if you can it would be greatly appreciated, this is still just an idea.
-Josh -
they must be fully functional and have straps rowels and buttons, the rowels must br humaine and may be baught, made is perfered, same with buttons, straps must be made, hardwear for straps ma be baught
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i like them but i have 1 suggestion, from my dad (25yr horse trainer) you may wand to smothe the inside or they will eat the boots
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that is part of the reason there is practise time, by saying "use what you have" we meant "dont stress about the fact that they are you need 10million tools to do it" cold cut and torch idea was removed and is now allowed, these are more guidelines than hard set rules, they are to fit the boot, the style must be humaine and functional, design is up to you, folks will judje by voting using the number posted with the picture, these will be taqllyed and a winner will be selected and tallyed the winner will be given bragging rights, pics are an issue that needs to be dicussed publicly
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So some of the guys in the chat have been talking about making spurs, so we had an idea. We are hoping to have the first international "spur off" the rules are simple power hammer, fly press are ok, all forge work no casting, use the tools you have, any stock you want to use, any technique, anyone can give suggestions to help as long as you do the forge work,picks will be sent to admin, and uploaded to the thread with a number, you write the number you want to vote for, there will be some hold backs until it will start so do your research and practise. Please let us know if you are interested, so we can figure numbers, the entry and submission is FREE so just make them on your dime there is no charge for the contest
-Josh -
Josh -
Unless the gears are really messed up, you should be able to fix it. In the solid fuel forges section, there's a thread I posted about a Canedy-otto I fixed up. I had to replace all the bearings, and one gear - but it was really easier than I thought it would be. Most of the work was just getting all the old grime out.
Checking the fan is also a very good idea; there could be something in there, or perhaps the fan is making contact with the blower shell.
Update on the blower i got it all taken apart and cleaned and there is what looks to be an Al cog gear that is almost completly stripped so i called the guy i got it from he thinks he may have a spare part so as i'm waiting for the part it is sitting in deisle fuel to clen all the old grime out of it
-josh
Keeping Busy
in Everything Else
Posted
Well i found a place for coal, its $881 per ton or $26/70lbs and a 5 hour round trip for me, OR my grandfather foundd a 2 burner propand forge with a front and back door, for $550 I dont know what to pick because, propane is easyer to get but i have no experience with it, and i already have a coal forge and canedy otto blower so if i could get some advice on this that would be amazing
-Josh