joshua.M

So a little while ago i posted a thread here: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/25285-power-hammer/page__fromsearch__1 and i got lots of nice feedback, so now i am working out what i am going to need to pay for a power hamer (very general i know )... so let me narrow it down.. i am looking for prices on 25-50lb LGs in ontario so that i know how much i need to save... so what should i expect to pay???
thanks
Josh

did you throw the hammer at him???

what happpened??? i dont understand how it got chisle marks???

how old??? could be wrought iron

dan i cant handle not having a list! it helps me plan and see what i am going to do before i do it

im happy with what i have, but a 3cwt would sure look good in my shop!

Revised list:
1. Clean shop (working on it)
2. Make tools
3. Frame and tin (getting quote)
4. Power hammer (mechanical) + foundation
5. Tooling
6. Insulate + plywood
7. Brick and sand floor
8. Hydraulic press
9. Air hammer
10. FUN! uhhh nooo i mean work ;)

There are a couple of OABA members very close to you Joshua. Les Fairhust is in Campbellford and I beleive he has built one of David Robertson's hammers. Do what you can to make it to Milton this February.

gonna try that! thanks curly

thanks curly, i like the idea, do you think a hair dryer would work? nice shop! i wish i had walls lol

I have a ontario forge co. hand cranked blower and the original forge to go with it, but i use coke so if i am not there to crank it the forge will go out in 10 minutes. I wat thinking about taking the crank handle out and fitting it with a v-belt then attatchhing a small electric motor to the leg of the foge that has a tension-releas spring so that i stand on a pedal attached to the motorthen when i walk away the belt goes slack so the blower idles? let me know what you think please!

Imounted my 200lb peter wright today, the log has been drying for a year and a half, i sunk it two and a half feet deep and fastened the anvil down with 4 rr spikes (1 on each corner) I got to use it and wow! It makes a hughr differance I have used it befor but I have never mounted an anvil on a buried stump and i dont think i will ever mount 1 out of the ground if i can swing it.

what if you atached one end to a chain and the other end to a tree, and chucked it in a stone bottomed creek?
Josh

here is my first try, i just tried it like 5 mins ago
Josh

i have never tryed to upset rebar but (if i am wrong please give me a virtual slap to the face) could the texture not complicate the upsetting prosess? and make sure you are starting with a peice that is cut at 90^o or else it will just bend and become more frustrating the more you work with it

Hi Joshua. I would suggest that you look at all of your options when it comes to power hammers. My first hammer was a little giant 50. After several years of blacksmithing, I purchased an Anyang 33 used from a blacksmith in Houston. Over the years, I became a real fan of the hammer and eventually, became the North America distributor for Anyang. The following link gives an overview of how the hammer works and at the end, shows a 55 lb in action. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZP8Bhv8rcY Before you buy, if possible, I would run the hammers. If you ever get close to Texas, you are welcome to visit my shop where you can test run the 33, 55, 88, and 165 lb Anyangs. Also, coming soon, I will be stocking 120 lb Anyang hammers.

Joshua, are you an OABA member yet? You should try and get out to some meetings. I had been blacksmithing about 6-7 years before joining and I learned a lot the first meeting I went to, You may find someone local to you who will help you out. If you can make it to a couple of meetings you may find someone near you who you may be able to carpool with to meetings. Post on the OABA forum here a week before the next meeting and you may find a drive that way. Offer to help with gas or at least buy your driver a coffee. Several of the members who host meetings have power hammers and you can see for yourself the differences.
There is talk of Brian Brazeel coming up here next summer, you may find working with a striker is more your speed.

wow that is so cool, on my bucket list, im in the great white north (usa's hat) so i couldnt help ya lol

if i was anywhere near you i would help just to say "i once got to quench an anvil" so how heavy is it???

"A" plan is better than no plan...cost aside, an air hammer is likely better than a mechanical hammer. However, unless you are in a position to benefit sales wise from production forging, until you have enough money saved to start throwing it away, you don't "need" a power hammer. It is a luxury as all you can do as a blacksmith you can do by hand. Build your shop (50% larger than you thought) then make your tools and stuff.....at the end of that then look for a power hammer.

what are the specs? looks nice and handy i have never heard of that type of steel, is it high carbon? are you planning on hardening and HT/tempering it?
josh

After some long talks with my parents and LOTS of reading, I have decided to sit down and plan for my shop and what I need/want to buy, when i want to buy it, and how nuch i should expect to pay. I have been recearching pros and cons of differant types of power hammers, and I have think settled on an air hammer. I would like to get an anyang 33, because the power requirements are easy, it is versitile, controllable, and not too big, because i currently am in a space saving mode. i would like to hear arguments of air vs mechanical hammers to make sure i have chosen the righ hammer.

so far, the plan is:
#1. clean up the shop and get rid of things that i dont need
#2. make tools (fullers swages cutoffs that kind of thing)
#3. Save money to put walls up (frame walls and put tin on)
#4. save money to insulate and put plywood (or somthing else) on the inside
#5. pour concrete floor
#5. power hammer
#6. more tooling

what do you think? of my plan? the hammers? what should i expect to pay for an anyang? i will most likley be looking for used as my first

you are doing very well for your first knives! have you tried to mae a distal taper in any of them?

dont worry about the upsetting it can be difficult to get the hang of... try making some rebar s-hooks and j-hooks

I've been in the On The Edge store Any full tang blades and supplies came from Jantz He does have some nice scandi hidden tang blades, but prices on everything are high. You could easily order what you want from the USA and still be ahead. I like knifekits.com