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Welcome to the group

Welcome to the group

A lot of knifemakers say to buy new steel of a certain type so you know what you have and how to heat treat it. BUT I like a lot of others are cheap and like to use what ever comes my way. I would agree if you are making a high dollar knife for sale new stee is the way to go but if you are experimenting or trying to learn the trade and are using the knives yourself or giving them to friends try different steels. As for heat treating to see what you have pound out a thing piece. Heat it about 100 degrees above nonmagnetic and quench in oil wearing safety glasses and other safety equipment place this quenched piece in a vise with just a little sticking out. With a hammer tap the piece sticking out to see if it breaks If not hit it harder until it breaks or bends over. If it bends and not breaks heat another piece and quench in water then do steps 2 and up. Hardest quench is salt water Good luck and remember safety glasses as un tempered pieces can shatter sending very sharp shrapnel everywere.

Welcome to the forum

Welcome to the group

Welcome to the group

Welcome to the group Click on user CP at the top in the green and add your location to the posts

Robb Gunter at a recent demo stated he has been using a bronze powder coat he has bee very happy with lately. Not sure if it would hold up to the heat of a fireplace screen

Blacksmithing is a lot harder to do correctly than it looks Watching a master work it looks like you hardly do anything and it is a perfect what every they are making but then you try it and realize how good that smith realy is. As they say it is a craft that takes a lifetime to learn Good luck in what ever you do after your tour

IVBA has classes in IL not sure where Sun foundation but again not sure where Check out the home page here then groups for IVBA

Damsacus or Mokume

Welcome to the group Check out the home page then groups to see about joining a local group They can help with getting tools and hand on training.

Welcome to the group

welcome to the group

welcome to the group

The main difference as I see them between old traps and new ones are how the jaws mount to the base plate. New traps the frame is bent up on each side with two holes in each. The jaws have a tenon on each end of the jaw that is bent at an angle and they go through the holes Older traps especially bear traps have cast jaws with teeth the base plate was flat and had a post on each side that the jaws were pinned to. This post was bolted through the base plate Some early jaws were bar stock and had individual teeth riveted to the jaw. They were made like a tenon Most Modern traps are cut out of sheet with a punch press If making just a wall hanger mild steel springs would work but if you want the trap to function problaly spring steel 5160 and heat treat. Not sure if the eye of the spring was drawn out and forge welded or punched annd drifted to enlare the hole.

Very beautifull work

welcome to the group go to the home page and check out groups for a blacksmith club near you. Then see when there is a meet sometimes there are nice tools for sale on a tailgate.

I agree Sid is the source for parts and info but if it is in good condition now and is 80 years old or so you should not wear it out too much more. Keep it well oiled. If it needs new babbit you can pour that yourself. If pins are warn they need replaced with a size larger which requires drilling Fred Craylor always suggested getting a new spring no matter what hammer you buy

Welcome to the group

Very nice work How about some technical info on how you drew the beard that wide.

Welcome to the group California was a very active group that holds lots of clases to imporve you abilitiy. Most Johnsons forges I have seen in action are great for making piles of heavy scale

A Duke #15 which is smaller than a #6 I think closed outside jaw dimensiion 11" bottom of trap to top of curced jaw 8" pan slightly larger than 4" This has cast jaws which are 1 1/2" at the widest The 2 posts which hold the jaws are 1 1/2: tall above the base plate springs 13 1/2" all are approximate

I have seen several hammers with a chain from the top At Saltfork conference Robb Gunter used an adjustable round pipe clamp. This was mounted behind the anvil. The pipe had a rubber bumper on the end and was adjusted up and down so the bumper stopped the lower arm from coming down further. He used the hammer to chase designs cold in 3/16th plate. I would have footage of this clamp some where but not easily accesed.

Have you tried calling Sid or Carrie at Little giant, Nebraska City< NE and ask them