2Tim215

The tire will be at the bottom driven by a motor. There will be a drive pully attached to the tire shaft that turns the top pully etc. Have built one before using this system and found it to have excellent control. Adjustments will be made on the shaft at the spring. Drawing not complete - started seeing dbl at two this morning.

Thanks, appreciat the comments. these are specifically designed for biltong (jerky) and make excellent gifts.

This is the hammer I am planning to build over the next three months. I have about 80% of the materials allready - swapped a Knife for most of it with a scrap yard owner I know. The spring was ordered today at the local springsmiths. All that I need now is the guide plates cut, the fly wheel cut and machined and other bits and pieces. Drawing is too scale. If you see anything that should be changed please give me a heads up before I go and spend any money LOL

I had a 250kg anvil when I started and then later swapped for my 77kg brooks as I also couldn't move the thing arround. Best swap I ever did - the 77kg brooks is the perfect size for my needs as an amature artist blacksmith. Am getting another 200 plus kg anvil soon just for display purposes. Did never understand this rebound thing with forging though. How does a hammer "rebound" off hot malleble steel? Does not make mechanical sense to me.

Using 52100 as a first time forged knife is brave. I have made many and have had lots of failures. The trick with 52100 is never to allow it to get too hot and always stop hammering before it gets too cold. There is a very short forging time with this steel in my experience. If the steel goes above critical it will devolope hair line cracks and the same with forging too cold. Normalising properly is of utmost importance with 52100 and i'm sure some steel guru will come and explain mor technically shortly. Otherwise if done properly this makes one excellent knife steel for small to med knives. And again as above, make sure it is 52100 as a lot of them are not and are case hardened.

Thanks. I wanted to keep all the edges sharp though and the angel of the photo dosen't do it justice. will post a better pic when finished.

Love it. Looks like he's playing handball and winning LOL

It is a shame, but it's only been out for 3 weeks and will be moving back in soon. Every two weeks or so I go and remind him that I still want it.

This hammer is at the springsmiths in my town. It's been sitting there for about 30 -40 yrs and hasn't been used in at least 10. I have begged the owner to sell but he just laughs and says maybe one day. I am quite sure that it's not a common one. "Blower and Forge cc" "Lancaster PA" Couldn't make out the rest

Very nice.

I second that. Seen some unusual forges in South Africa but never one like that. If you come across anything else like that let me know - I am looking for one for demos, preferably with a hand blower. Really nice find.

You jumped right in the deep end and swam. Well done, for a wall hanger that is excelent and I think that if you had been able to HT it it would of made a more than just functional sword. If this is what you are doing now in a few years you could be up there with the big names if you keep at it.

Love it!

Well, this is my first forging in 11 months. Good to be back at the hammer again. Forged from 20mm square bar by hand. Thanks to all who assisted with the slit punch - worked first time. All that I need to do now is forge out the trays for the candles and rivet everything. Crits welcome Amd my forge assistant. Try and put her to sleep and its let loose the dogs of war, but light up the oil forge and start forging and she sleeps right through.

My favorite scrap dealer is giving me this for a Damascus camp axe and knife set he wants. I sadly had to give up my 250 KG anvil three years ago when I moved so this is a welcome addition to the family - weighs in at just over 200 kg's It's been a really good month for scoring!! One small 40 KG, a small post vice and now this.

Thanks again to all of you and thanks Frank for that detailed explanation. Will be bookmarking this for further reference.

Thanks all. Appreciate the help. Being self taught in a country with very few balcksmiths it helps to have you guys around. I learnt more in the last few hours watching Brian's vids on some of the more technical aspects than I have in 5 yrs of figuring it out on my own. Should have asked earlier. Thanks to Brian Brazeal especially for taking the time to share his knowledge so simply for guys like me in the slow lane. Concerning the slit punch and the slit chisel - I assume that the slit punch is flat compared the chisel that has an angled point?

Thanks Paul - Excellent vid and best explantion I have so far seen.

thanks yves - that's what I thought - mind you that's also what I used to do until someone said try the drill method. Couldn't figure out why it wasn't working like it used to LOL. Just me being stupid and lazy.

Having trouble spliting and drifting 16mm square bar. I drill a 6mm hole, heat and start with a tapered round drift then open up with a 16mm square drift made from the same stock. My walls end up too thin and keep on tearing when I work the piece. I thought that maybe I should use a thin hot cut chisel to split and then only open up instead of doing the above. If the chisel is slightly wider than the stock say by one third then I should get the same thickness in the walls that would be half of the stock used - ie: 16mm stock would end up 8mm wall. What I am trying to do is thread the 16mm bar through a square eye. Thanks Tim

Love it! Hope you don't mind if I give it a try. How do you cut the bottle?

Like that

Those are nice, perfect for using.

Thanks Thomas, thought that would be the case. Thanks Geoff - what you have there is what I have in mind but with a tire at the bottom driving a pully system. Tried the pully drive on its own and found a tire driven system far more responsive. Thanks macbruce, what I originally had in mind for the hammer was a truck coil spring in a cylinder with a 50mm centering shaft - would work like a shock without losing any energy. Might just give it a go just to see if it would work.

LOL - just one of those days. Today it's raining and cold, perfect for forging and the grandmother is on duty. Compressor is fixed so if all goes well a new candlebra will be the result.