PBARNHART

Glenn, Generally one would make their own pattern. send me your idea and I will help you with it... Another idea is to buy a pack of beer, some glue, a scissors, and two large pizzas. Cook the pizza, drink the beer and cut a pattern out of the pizza box, glue/tape on extra paper to make the shape of the lantern you want. Then cut the pattern on a "seam" and ta da...you have your pattern. Really, just take some stiff paper and work up your design. From there you can actually see where to join the "tin" to make the lamp you want. P

Hollow ware was the term for sheet goods made into containers. Yes these are for that side of the business. The large mandrel is cast iron, and the others are generally cast steel. you might take the temper out of em, but they are most likely better steel than that which you are forging. some are worth more than others, if ya sell em for what they are for, you might buy some better tools for what you are doing....Whatever. Paul

June 21 to June 24, 2007 Tinsmith/Coppersmith Convergence Archibald Ohio @ Sauder Village Historical tinwork and copperwork $20 participation fee/family. Meals are on your own. Hot dip tin, machine reconstruction Historical techniques, Pattern-layout, Soldering FUN, BAD JOKES AND MORE !!! Pre-register $20 Walk-ons about $35+ Rain or shine For more info...PAUL@BARNHART-STUDIOS.COM OR Mike Runyon 1-800-590-9755 x 2018

Roof coatings included lead, 60/40 all the way up to pure tin. You need an agressive flux and you then have to "kill" it too. You could take a large iron and coat your own copper with solder. Although it won't have the same patina. Consider having the customer sign some sort of document that they are aware of the lead on their roof, that you are fixing it not putting the lead on the roof. The plater that I just visited mentioned that Lead is more like the black plaque. Keep yourself out of the law suits. Just a thought. Paul

Consider attenting the 2007 Tinsmith/coppersmith convergence, there are some old fashioned techniques that may be applied here..don't know for sure.. June 21 - 24 in north west OHIO...

Bruce, this is interesting.. THe spinning I see here is the other way around. ON spinning it doesn't really matter. thanks for the idea though...with my spin on chuck I think I will stay with the ccw so it stays in place. It sounds like your dad was a real artist...

Counter clock wise for the cutting tool on the left side of the work. This is considered climb cutting in milling machines. CLock wise for the cutting tool on the right side of the work. because you have the tool stationary the material is pulled over the tool. Ok now if you put the tool in upside down all this changes. If you look at the rake angle of the tool, you will find that almost always a lathe tool is ment to have the material pulled from the top... A Normal drill in the tail stock, should have a ccw material in the chuck. Just to make a point there are left handed drills on the market. know your tools and how to use em...that is the ART of the craft.

Does anyone have experience using a copper backing plate in this situation? Would this not help absorb some of the heat..?

A dryer blower works well, and it has the potential of a shower of sparks at night...! Lots of CFM if you want to melt brass or ? Anyway, in a pinch an air hose will work well. hard on the compressor but nice to control the air..Till you get the blower you want. Oh Don't forget the 1974 Cadallic blowers...tough and runs on 12v. multispeed too. There is a lot to be said for hand cranks...there is a lot to control..and you don't use fuel when you are at the anvil. Just a few thoughts...

Food grade tin is generally considered pure tin ( 99%) lead free solder that would be close is a tin/silver alloy...but...Ace or other hardware used to carry bars of 100% tin. To tin the iron...use powdered sal amoniac which is also sold at Ace. #1 put the sal ammoniac in a bag and or can or jar with plastic lid. #2 The sal ammoniac will rust any steel tool in your tool box...even a little piece of it. there goes all your micrometers. #3 The smoke from the sal amoniac when it is at the right temperature to work is kinda bluish white...IT IS NASTY...don't breath that . #4 You may have to put the tin and the sal amoniac on at the same time and or wire brush the steel while you apply the tin and sal amoniac