LDW

Ernie Dorrill was our demonstrator and did a great job discussing the tools then using them to form a couple different styles of leaves. When Ernie goes to learn something he carries the necessary tools to do just that. He stressed that pencil and paper are a necessity to keep the steps in order in case you want to duplicate something but he also had some plasticene 3 ( I am sure thats not spelled right) There is a photo of it with tool impressions made into it. That way you can duplicate a tool since they are so hard to draw. We had a great time. Max discussed the Knife making class coming up and it was decided we would use propane forges to eliminate the smoke till we get the new side draft forge hoods installed. The following is a link to the pictures I took while at the meeting. Picasa Web Albums - Lyle - July 08 Meeti... Lyle

Thanks, Ernie made the center one. The lower ones are in order. The first one on the left was my first one I made.

Ernie Dorrill will be the demonstrator this Saturday. July 12. He is going to be showing how to make some decorative leaves. Similar leaves will have to be made for our upcoming MFC group project. He was kind enough to let me baby sit a sample he brought with him last thursday, and this is a picture of the leaves I have been attempting. Its pretty easy to tell which one he made.These are my first 4 attempts.

I did a search for acetylene and there is a thread on transporting oxy/acetylene. Post #10 answers your question. I tried to link to it but it did not work. Find the thread you wish to link to, and copy the URL from the top of the page. When writing the text, highlight the words you wish to have hot linked, then click on the world globe with the infinity mark at the top of the text box. Paste the URL into the pop-up box and click ok. Click here is an example that refers to this thread.

I have a local cable supplier I use. I found them in the yellow pages a few years back. They end up with a lot of pieces about 3 feet long. It is fun to look at all the different wire patterns on the ends, but I have found that the larger strands in about 1 inch cable makes the best patterns. I have given them several knives so they allow me to pick and choose what I want.

Use a piece of nylon string and route it around the pulleys, or is that how you originally got the first estimated length.

If its a 14 inch I am assuming the diameter of each wheel is 14 inches seems to me if you multiply 14 x 3.1416 then measure how far the center shafts are apart from each other and multiply that by 2 then add these two totals together you get the blade length. In other words, 14 x 3.1416 equals half the diameter of both wheels added together. then add the distance between the shafts twice. Put your blade adjustment in the center first. You may could do it with the adjustment all the way down and get a range of what blades would fit.

Click on search at the top of the screen and type in zinc chloride, this will bring up three threads where the stripping of zinc or galvanize, is discussed. It is normal for muriatic to turn green when it gets loaded with zinc, I think the whitish yellow film you are talking about is a residue of the aluminum. What are you going to make with the wire rope?

Here is a picture of one I etched with muriatic acid. The lines are where the forge welds between the individual cables take place. There is less carbon where this takes place and it does not etch as easy. I am assuming this, if it is wrong I hope someone will let us know. The steel is the same throughout, therefore cable requires a deeper etch to make the pattern stand out. These lines are actually raised enough to feel them. Hope this was some help.

I work in the manufacturing industy and we have punch presses. I was watching one operate the other day and came up with a wild idea. If you have a 12 ton press and you took a die shoe and put say 11 tons worth of springs under it, I was wondering if you could use the top of the die shoe as the bottom die of an 11 ton hammer. You would have to lower the die shoe enough that when the press is in the down stroke it would be at the top of the die shoe when the die shoe is in the up stroke position. Your material thickness would be limited to the travel of the die shoe. you could bolt a fullering die to the top of the die shoe to increase the tonnage. Like I said its just a thought. You definitely would not want to try it unless you are familiar with setting dies up in punch presses.

I had something similar happen not to long ago and posted a thread. I ended up blaming it on not tempering, and forging at too low a temperature to try and get the hammer marks out. Here is the thread.http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f14/should-have-tempered-5211/

This is a friction folder I made. They can be made as long or short as the handle material will allow. Like Finnr said do a search for friction folder.

I do not think you are being a wise guy at all, That makes good sense. I do not do a lot of cutting, but I still hate to have to get the bottles filled. Everything I learned about a torch was doing plant maintenance years ago with oxygen I did not have to purchase. I was just being honest. Thanks Artfist, thats another reason I enjoy this site.

Yes, I have always set the oxygen regulator at about 40 psi

Here is a chart I found. I usually set the Oxygen on 40 psi and the Acetylene on about 10 psi. I am not sure what your question is. Open the bottom valve(for the oxygen) when cutting all the way. This lets the oxygen flow full force while cutting.