KTB

Tractor Supply doesn't carry the gauge in my neck of the woods. I went to my local welding supply. But TSC are the only folks I could find locally that had an adjustable LP regulator which has a port for a gauge.

Who would want to drive to Michigan in the winter ? He needs to bring it down south here to Georgia.

I picked up a 1 HP 1750 RPM motor from AutomationDirect.com which is local to me but they do ship of course. As I recall is was just over 100.00 While it is a chinese motor, what I like about it is the foot. It is not tack welded on like most, but oversize and attached with 6 machine screws. It seemed to get a bit too hot hooked up to 120 but when wired 220 seems to do fine.

I received your message Thomas and I tried to reply back but received a message that you were not receiving messages. At any rate I am going to use your suggestion and I want you to know I really appreciate it. Keith

Great suggestion Thomas. I'll try to find one.

My one and only anvil weights 100 lbs. so I guess I need to hitch up my pink panties and go home.

I saw a tool once and I am attempting to locate one. It could be made quite easily on a lathe but I don't have one. It somewhat resembles the shape of a solid valve train lifter although just a bit larger. It was perhaps an inch or so in diameter and about 3 inches long. One end was just a bit larger than the other and both ends are slightly rounded. It was held in the center with tongs and used to dish out flats. Any idea where I might locate one ?

I have a couple pcs of 1 1/2 in. high X 2 in. wide X 3 1/2 in. long 4140 ( recommended tire hammer size ) and I would like to get them machined with a radius top for drawing dies. Can anyone recommend a specific radius for all around use ? Thanks, - K -

I can't necessarily back this up with data and I know myself included often fabricate against what is specifically recommended and I have done this myself, but I have been told by more than one knowledgeable party that sweat soldered copper fittings should NOT be used for LP.

I didn't keep strict tabs but I estimate between 750.00 and 800.00 I purchased some of the steel, the hub and spindle, the motor, the tire and wheel, the upper arm spring, 4140 for two sets of dies, the electrical switch and wiring, and quite a few bolts for assembly. I also paid John Wayne Taylor ( a close associate of Clay Spencer ) to fabricate the upper arms, the aluminum drive wheel, and pour the lead for both the ram and the counterweight. He has a jig for the arms and I quite frankly didn't want to mess around with pouring lead in my garage at home. I was able to obtain a base plate and anvil for zero cost. Total fabricate took approximately 9 weeks of my spare time. I am certain it could be accomplished for less with more time invested on scrounging parts.

I made the treadle spring adjustable and the treadle removable because I prefer component parts of most any fabrication I perform removable in case they need to be altered, adjusted, or replaced. I added the wood base because the solid round I located for an anvil ( for free ) wasn't quite high enough to provide a comfortable working height. I also had to have a way to manueuver the machine around my shop during fabrication and also for final placement so I added the tilt back wheels that you see. I fabricated a bracket that bolts temporarily to the front of the base. My floor jack goes under the bracket and the unit will tilt back on to the rear wheels which are normally an 1/8 inch or so off the ground at rest.

Pictures as requested.

I just completed a tire hammer build a few months ago utilizing Clays plans and was pleased with the outcome. A couple of revisions I incorporated was an adjustable treadle spring mount and a removal treadle. Not sure if you have a motor yet but I purchased a chinese 1 HP motor from a supplier in Cumming GA at a very attractive price. It seemed to get hotter than it should connected up to 120 VAC but does fine at 220 VAC. Give me a shout if I can lend assistance in some way.

I recently completed a tire hammer using Clay Spencers plans. It took me about 2 months to find an anvil for a reasonable price and it took me almost that long to find the tire and wheel that was spec'd. Rollers from old carpet mills, well drilling equipment, scrap yards are all good possibilities. Keep looking, there is a pc out there somewhere with your name on it.

I just googled burning man photos and came up with a ton. Great pc Carrek.

Photos are up and are both outrageous and awsome. It would appear there are 13,575 photos on 905 pages. I for one couldn't look at them all but it is well worth checking out at least a portion.

Wow, glad to see my hammer provoked some great discussion. I learn quite a bit from these topics. As far as my hammer goes it rocks but I know the wooden base isn't very flat either. I have a 3/4 in thick metal base plate through bolted to pine 4x4's that are in turn tied together with threaded rod. I would have preferred to use hardwood but I used materials I already had laying around. I am fairly confident that after I anchor it down with 5/8" or 3/4 in. wedge anchors it will hold up for a good period of time.

I live in a cottage home and it is all poured on the same slab. The whole house other than the garage is hardwood glued directly to the slab. I don't want to take the chance on compromising or cracking any of the slab faster than it would otherwise. And since I have a friend with a concrete saw and a concrete mixer, well why not ? One of my concrete contractors has advised me to go down at least 2 ft. or until I hit relatively solid material. Then I plan to pour an isolated section about 3 ft. x 3 ft. and I won't have to worry about it. Plans are for a 5/8 in. X 5 in. wedge anchor in each corner. That should keep it from dancing.

I got the idea for the ratchet holder and oil can from John Wayne Taylor, one of Clay's associates. Shortly after I started my hammer I drove over to Alabama and visited John Wayne so I could look at one of his hammers. Mr. Taylor also built the ram and counterweight for me as I didn't want to get involved in pouring lead in my garage. I purchased the machined aluminum drive wheel from Clay.

I haven't have a chance to use it extensively yet, but it hammers like crazy so my expectations are high. I just need to complete my slab prior to anchoring it down. Since this if my first power hammer, thats when the learning curve will present itself.

Nice hammer Mike, great job. And Dodge, I can't image doing it without plans. Way to go. I tack welded mine together, took it apart, finished welded, put it back together to make sure it worked properly and the welds would hold, took it apart, painted it, and then performed final assembly. I knew if I didn't paint it right away it probably never would get painted. I did learn to disassemble and reassemble without too much trouble. lol

Pictures Mike, we need pictures. B)

I agree with you on the dies. I have a friend who is currently machining a combo set for me and I'll do a bit more rounding on them prior to heat treat.

I spent approx 9 weeks of spare time building a hammer according to Clay Spencers plans. I did make a few revisions such as a removable treadle assy and removable shim retainers. The treadle spring is adjustable and I mounted the 3/4 inch thick base plate on 4 x 4's. Next is cutting out my garage floor and pouring a thicker 36 x 36 inch slab. Excuse the clutter. I don't have a lot of room in a one bay garage. Keith

I would strongly recommend a CO detector for anyone using a gas forge indoors. I first used my small forge in a garage with the overhead door wide open and was feeling a bit funny afterward. A few days later I purchased and used a meter and it was screaming at me in no time. Now I roll it outside before firing it up. More recently it alerted me to an acetylene hose leak.