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I Forge Iron

hdwarner

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Everything posted by hdwarner

  1. my 144 pound trenton farriers anvil on a three legged anvil stand i made. table a little narrow i think
  2. hdwarner

    russian anvil

    my russian anvil, modified by heat treating i actually like this anvil after heat treating . it rings and clangs like crazy and it is probally in the 45 rockwell c range now i made the tree legged anvil stand also fro another anvil but it works for this one
  3. hdwarner

    shop

    my shop, a converted run in shed , coal and gas forge both made by me , hood over forge i made
  4. i am looking to buy a hay buddenanvil and on the side it has {074} anyone know what this means is it as simple as weight i am going to look at it tonight thanks chuck
  5. they have a cast iron one also, not russian chinese, when you go into harbour frieght walk by the hammers pick one up walk to the anvils hit tit lightly it will ring a little also the new generation russian anvils have the hardy hole on a 45 degree angle chuck
  6. that is a good idea, chuck
  7. hello thomas, the cost was 89 dollars at harbour frieght{also you can always get a coupon} to pay less , since the new anvils are are already mave a mill finish on top you could probally just sand the top lightly, i would use a 4 inch grinder for the horn and it takes some time to get a shape that is suitable . drill a bigger pritchel hole if you prefer the one that is in there is only 3/8 my anvil was beat up thats why i had to mill it. take it to the heat treater , THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT ASK THEM TO ANNEAL IT FIRST THEN HEAT TREAT IT AS IF IT WAS 4140 UP TO 55 ROCKWELL .you will probally net 48 rockwell like i did . i was forging today with this anvil and i am very happy with results if you can't find a heat treater , mail it to IMT in delaware international metal treaters . as far as me doing for someone , glad to do it but the cost is probally prohibitive 90 for anvil 90 for heat treating and 80 for grinding and machining equals 260 plus whatever shipping would be from 19703 for 110 pounds i reccomend do it yourself you won't be dissapointed. ONE MORE IMPORTANT ITEM WHEN YOU GET IT FRO HEAT TREATERS DRESS THE ANVIL CORRECTLY , THIS IS HARD STEEL NOW AND ALSO REMEMBER THIS ISN'T JUST A TOP PLATE THATS HARDENED THIS IS THE WHOLE ANVIL SO BE CAREFULL WITH HEAVY BLOWS ON THE HORN AND THE REAR SIDE CHUCK
  8. i made my stands from steel tubing 3inch by 1.5 inch wall thickness .06 with an angle iron frame to capture the anvils base the legs were cut at a 15 degree compound angle the legs were the tubing and i only used three to prevent rocking this works real well and is light if you have to move it NAAMANS FORGE
  9. hello, when i first became interested in blacksmithing i bough one of those russian anvils from harbour frieght, since then i got a trenton . anyway i still wanted to use the russian 110 pounder and it was mared and scared pretty good , so i surfaced the top with a milling machine, ground the heck out of the horn to make it more usable . took it to the heat treaters that we use at my work the heat treaters annealed it first then treated the material like 4140 and heated it then quenched it in oil , now my anvil is 48 rockwell c rather than the 30 it came in i am happy this things rings well and has good rebound , all for eighty bucks thought i would share
  10. lathes turn both ways but think of the cutting action on a metal lathe clockwise or ccwise you want the cutting action to be pushing on the saddle of the lathe , to avoid chatter and instability the same goes for a wood lathe you want the chisel resting on the guide with the work pushing the chisel downward on to the saddle
  11. take a look at your large drill from the point end and take a small drill and look at the point end, notice how big the chisel is on the big drill compared to small drill, you can thin these chisel edges on the large drill by thinning the web and grinding more heal clearance behind the cutting edge, i have drilled 1/2 inch holes in steel with a cordless drill by properly addressing the cutting tool , i thin all the webs on my drills , stay away from split point drills however they cut great at first but are delicate and chip out real fast expesially in handoperated tools thanks chuck
  12. greetings blacksmiths, i am new to blacksmithing, only about a year , i went to three beginning balcksmith classes, touchstone, petersvalley and carrol county. i just recently bought a run in shed for my shop , no floor i filled with crush and run , i have a trenton anvil 150 pounds , an indian chief vise , misc tools and tongs . i bored a hole in my roof of my shed put triple wall flue pipe i aquired at a farmers market , because i am a cheap blacksmith you know. just fired the forge today and did some hammering , it was great the overhead hood i made from an industrial light fixture worked perfectly pyramid shaped and about 2ft by 2 ft square. no smoke in shop at all . right now i just make some imperfect hooks and such, mostly i make a lot of clinkers from the coal . chuck
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