Glenn

I need to amend my post to indicate that the appartment dwellers (no disrespect intended) have many hobbies that do not require heavy duty tools. Folks sometimes work out of extremely small spaces but still do wonderful things. One older gentleman comes to mind that had general tinkering abilities and worled out of an couple of metal kitchen cabnets in his basement. He was able to sharpen knives and sissors better than anyone. He would not want and could not use a 200 pound anvil, but did have about 9 inches of rail road track he used as an anvil. Next time your in the Big Box store, look at the vises on display. On the top of the vise body is a flat area that just invites you to pound on it. The vise in the photo has 4-1/2 inch jaws and a nice little 2x2 inch flat are that can be used for - dare we say it - an anvil face? They are not blacksmithing tools but like the anvil / vise combo tool, they can serve a purpose. To often they are abused by doing work that is too large for the design.

The vise / anvil combo comes apart into the vise and rail section and the anvil section as shown. On the anvil section there is a hole just up from the bottom and close to the left "foot" in the photo. This is for a 1/2" rod to be inserted through the anvil section, through the vise rail section and out the other side of the anvil section. This is the adjustment for the opening of the jaws of the vise to handle different size objects. The hardie hole is about 1/2" square. The anvil section is maybe 1/2" thick but hollow inside. The assembled combo and a close view of the screw mechanism of the vise. This was only a fine spacing adjustment for the jaws and the clamping action of the vise. The adjustment scrrew actually pushes against the back of the vise jaw causing it to slide on the rail and close. Is not a bad tool for an apartment dweller with a work bench hobby (not blacksmithing). The vise / anvil combo is a vise, an anvil, a horn, and a hardie hole all in one tool. It is definately not a heavy duty blacksmithing tool and is not designed to serve that purpose.

Circumference of a 5" dia circle is 15.7" or 19.6 sq inches, area inside the circle. Double the circumference is 31.4 which is 78.5 sq inches or 4x the area. (Machinery's Handbook) And I do not recall the rule where it says you have to assemble two stove pipes of the exact same size. Why not a 5" and a 8", a 6" and a 8", or a 4 "and a 6", or any other combination you can think of to get your desired end result? There is a issue with how the air flows inside the square vs round chimney, and air flow inside a too large or too small chimney, but that is beyond the scope of the original question.

Another hammer rack. It could be easily adapted to handle tongs.

Think about building to code. IF something should happen, the insurance company may look for an excuse not to pay up. Pipe either standard sch 40, or corrigated drain pipe will work. The inside of a hot water tank can be 14" 16" or 18" and is maybe 11 ga.

Your comment reminded me of #41 on the Advice to New Blacksmiths by Richard Hanson. 41.Besides the above, when is the last time you changed that water, and what is in there that killed all the algae and mosquitoes. 42. While you got your hand in the slack tub, you might as well clean it out. Only a couple inches of goo in the bottom this time, but that crunchy thing, dripping with slime that you just pulled out, looks a lot like a dead rat. That's ok, he didn't die from putting a burned hand or foot in mucky water, he drowned.

* Add a little household bleach to sanatize their gene pool. * Use the slack tub more often. After a good day at the forge, the heat from the metal will bring the water temp up to jacuzi level and skidders are no more. There is the rumor that a good blacksmith, while quenching metal, could would boil off half the water in his full whiskey barrel slack tub by lunch. Me thinks he startes earlier in the morning than I do. :)

From the email: What is the purpose of flux during forge welding, I mean what does it do exactly? Can other things be used instead of borax?

Alan DuBoff, getting some one to ask about the numbers was why they were posted in the signature. Glad you ask.

This is information from the book, not a religious discussion. Adam, Cain, Enoch, Irad, Mehujael, Methushael, Lamech, and Tubal-Cain, an instructor of every craftsman in bronze and iron. Adam's 5th great grandson was the first blacksmith. Ge 4:22 And as for Zillah, she also bore Tubal-Cain, an instructor of every craftsman in bronze and iron. And the sister of Tubal-Cain was Naamah.

My Peter Wright has been heard at 4 blocks on a hot summers day !! A 4" carrage bolt in the prichel hole will kill a lot of the ring as will two wraps of light weight chain placed loosely around the waist of the anvil. Setting the anvil in an inch of sand works. BP0255 Stop the Anvil Ring - Gerald Franklin

Sorry but the visual image on this one is just too great to let slip past. I figure that you put it around you neck and as you sweat, the cooler expands your eyes begin to bug out. :)

Time to bring this thread to the top again. With temperatures over 90*F (or 33*C) it is time to take on fluids and time shift to early morning or late evening forging. Any addirional suggestions?

I have been told to polish them up and find them a new home. For heat use a small propane torch for $15 or so at Wal-mart, Lowes, Home Depot etc. The ones with the auto start are about $30. The people that used the old blow torches have moved on to better equiptment for a reason.

You said steer head Try IForgeIron BP0125 Wolfe Head - Jr Strasil

70# anvil?? Does it have a name (and I don't mean Linda). Go to IForgeIron > Forum > Blacksmithing > What size anvil do you use and see what others use - after they searched for a while. 37% of those responding use an anvil of 100-150# and your close to that weight now. A lot of learning and then a lot of work can be done on a 70# anvil. Don't sell it short. Besides you can move and carry a 70# anvil. Try tucking a 400# anvil under your arm, or lifting it up and into the truck bed at the end of a weekend demo when your dog tired. Remember we are always hunting for the Ray Davis anvil of 5280 pounds.

The 55 Forge

Frank, The heads are not on the Blueprints yet (hint-hint to those making animal heads). Look at the iForge-Anvilfire demos #116 by BIll Epps or I think Bill also demonstrates a longhorn steer head in his teaching tapes.

Jim, Join us for the Tuesday Nights for the live presentation of Blueprints - those how-to projects that make life easier. We can not tell you what is being presented, but we can tell you it will be fun. Doors open 8 pm EST US, Show starts 10 pm and lasts an hour. Just another way to expand your knowledge in blacksmithing. :)

Please send me the information so it can be worked up into a blueprint.

Look for a flywheel from a standard transmission to weld to the brake drum for additional ballast. Weld a piece of steel plate to the drum so it extends out in front for you to stand on. Both are great help in preventing tip overs.

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved BP0264 Measuring Things by Glenn Conner When measuring a piece of stock you need to know what length to cut. Put the end of your "ruler" at the starting point. At the other end of the distance read the marks on the ruler. Take the ruler to work table and place it on the stock, transferring the information, then cut the stock. Now take the stock back to your project and make note of how short the cut stock has been cut. Now back to the work table and cut another piece to fit. You can measure in Biblical cubits, survey rods (16 feet 6 inches or 1/4 of a chain), survey chains (66 feet) or any other standard of measurement you desire. In school, I was taught to measure by using a ruler with imperial units, feet and inches. They expected you to figure out what all those little lines meant and work in fractions. For those of you using the metric system be thankful, your system of measurement makes sense. These are a few of my favorite tools. Sewing tape, 6 inch vernier, 4 inch vernier, 16 foot steel tape measure, 6 inch steel ruler, 12 inch steel ruler and welding rods. For longer lengths gas welding (oxygen/acetylene) rods are also used. The sewing tape is a fiberglass or plastic flexible ruler. It comes in real handy when measuring curved surfaces. This example is how much stock do we need to make a handle. One word of warning, the tape measures the OUTSIDE and INSIDE of the curve. To get things more accurate you need to measure the middle of the stock to get a length that is closer to what is actually needed. The vernier is a neat tool that will measure in 1/16th of a inch or 1/32 nd of a inch and some even more accuracy. In this example a AA battery is 9/16 inches diameter, or 18/32ths - which is 9/16ths. That is also a good thing to remember when in the field and there is no ruler handy. The vernier measures the AA battery at 2 inches long. Another good number to remember when a ruler is not available. The vernier measures the outside diameter of this plastic pipe fitting at 1-5/8 inches diameter. The vernier measures the inside diameter of the pipe fitting at 1-1/8 inches. CHECK MEASUREMENT The 16 foot steel tape measure is reasonably straight forward, put the hook over the end of the object to be measured and extend the tape. Then read the distance, in this example 10 and 15/16 inches. Look at the two photos real close and you will see that the hook of the tape is riveted onto the steel tape and the rivets are LOOSE, allowing the silver hook to move. This photo shows the length of the movement a little better. The reason for this is when you do an outside measurement the hook moves longer to the "zero" position on the tape. When you do an inside measurement, the hook moves shorter to the "zero" position on the tape. The difference takes into account the thickness of the hook. The 6 inch steel rule can measure in 16ths of an inch or in 32nds of an inch and has a sliding depth gauge that also doubles as a pocket clip. When you use the depth gauge, be sure and get the proper alignment at the start. The depth gauge is to the left of the 1 inch mark here. Properly aligned to the 1 inch mark, you can then read the rod as being 1/8 inches diameter. The ruler is quick for reading the depth of the socket in this fitting. The depth is 1 inches. The 12 inch steel rule is divided so you can read 32nds of an inch and the end is cut flush to the zero mark. The area between 3 inches and 4 inches is divided into 64ths of an inch in case you want to get just a little closer to right. Notice that 1 to 3 inches is in 32nds of an inch, 3 to 4 inches is in 64ths of an inch, and 4 to 12 inches is in 16ths of an inch. A lot of times we have welding rods laying about. They just happen to be 14 inches long. A good number to remember. Line one end of the rod up with the end and mark the rod at the measurement needed. It doesn't hurt the rod and the rod can be used for welding later. It is real easy to tell the length required when you get to the work table, but oops, which side of the line is the correct length ? I fix this by putting an extra mark or dot on one side of the line. In this case, the dot calls for the left side of the line to be left when the cut is made. The X calls for the line to be split with the cut. If you have an inside measurement longer than your ruler, I tape two welding rods or oxygen/acetylene welding rods together and mark them across both rods in case the tape slips. This over lap is unimportant as it is the end to end dimension that is the inside dimension of our project. What is that distance? Who cares, it is whatever the length of the measurement is equal to and does not require dimensions. I have learned that I carry a tape measure of sorts with me most of the time - my hands. Across the knuckles is 4 inches. Hand and thumb is 7 inches. Hand span is 9 inches. These are good numbers to remember, 4,7,9 and any combination of two give you a wide variety of numbers to work with: 4, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16 and 18. The thumb at the first joint is 1 inch wide. The depth of the first two fingers is 3" You also need to be careful because 1 inch wide masking tape is 1 inch wide, but 2 inch duct tape is only 1-15/16 inches wide. Sometimes you just need a ruler to tell the difference. Did you know that a penny is 3/4" in diameter. I have found, more than once, that rulers are not accurate when compared to each other. If anything is critical always use the same ruler you measure with to measure the cut. Let me suggest another (better?) way to use that ruler. Measure as before by putting the end of the ruler at the begriming of the measurement. Read as before but this time do not combine the fractions. For instance 7-15/16" is 7 + 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/8 + 1/16" and a bit long to remember. By adding all those fractions together and arriving (hopefully) at 7-15/16" there is a good chance of making a mistake. Now to transfer the measurement of 7-15/16" to a piece of stock you have to break the measurement back down into the fractions again to arrive at 7 + 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/8 + 1/16" and then make your mark. Breaking the measurement down adds another chance for mistakes. Why not just leave the measurement as you first read on the ruler 7 + 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/8 + 1/16". Although it is a bit long, there are two less chances of getting it wrong. Many things are divided into half. So divide the original measurement in half 7 + 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/8 + 1/16" = 3-1/2 + 1/4 + 1/8 + 1/16 + 1/32 and make your mark. But why go through all than when you can read the ruler the "other" way. 7-15/16 is also 8" - 1/16". It is real easy to mark 8 - 1/16" on the stock. An easy way to find the center of a piece of stock is to balance it on the hot cut. A whack with a hammer will mark it just enough to keep the measurement. How many of you had problems figuring out that the rod was 1/8 inch in diameter. To figure that out you had to read the ruler in reverse and you did it without thinking. Why not use that trick to your advantage? Measure twice cut once . Measure with a micrometer Mark with a crayon Cut with an axe The width, length and thickness of the pack of cigarettes can be used as a ruler. It is a "standard" size and handy when needed. Just be sure to use the same brand and type cigarettes if you give these measurements to someone else. Leah Fuller Use your anvil as a ruler, The face has width and length, the horn a length, heel to near side of the hardie hole, heel to far side of the hardie hole, etc. I looked at my anvil and got 20 different measurements from 1/2 inch to 21 inches. Get to know your anvil. Measure the face from heel to front edge. Then to edge of cutting table ( these are length measures ). Also, from working side to near edge of hardie hole, far edge, and to both sides of pritchel. Numerical measurement not as important as finished goods ( IE how far to draw the end of a piece for a loop ). Then you can repeat as necessary. Easier for me to write down in the book that I need to draw to far side of pritchel than to a measurement on a ruler. Length measurements handy for hot cutting long hooks at a demo. Just hold the measurement with the thumbnail, transfer to the hardie, nick the stock, and you've got a place to hot cut. You can use 1/2 anvil face length too, and on and on and on. This ain't machine work, and no need for the micrometer. Same can be said for using the vise ( small hacksaw mark for a specific length, or maybe use both sides of the jaw mount screws, I use both ) as a ruler. Throat of a pair of tongs works too. Hammers can be used as rulers. Length of handle, length or width of the head, and so on. Looked at my hammer and got 7 different measurements from 1/2 inch to 13 - 1/4 inches. Whatever works for you. Write it down, or you'll forget it in 6 months when you want to duplicate something you built today. This ain't rocket science, but may actually be used in repetition for duplication of things needed in large numbers. And faster than using a measuring stick with a marker. Ten Hammers View full article

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved BP0257 Bending Fork by Bob Elliot and Glenn Conner Thanks to Bob Elliot for this great idea. He was always out of position with the bender and this was HIS solution to the problem. Ok, you need a bending folk. Grab any round piece of stock, fire up the forge, and bend a "U" shape While your at it make 2 "U" shapes. Thing of it like a big "S" hook. Now instead of the usual weld the "U" on the end of a bar, weld one "U" perpendicular to the other. This way you can bend or tweak easily as usual. Or flip the tool over and now bend or week the "other" way. The round bottom has a tendency to make flat iron deform and twist so be careful to stay at the ends of the feet. Or make one with a sq bottom. Thanks to Bob Elliot for this great idea. He was always out of position with the bender and this was HIS solution to the problem. Works for me too. View full article

A 3# red hot hammer head in a small amount of oil is an invitation for a flash fire. Use a metal container that has a lid that closes and that can put out a fire. A fire extingusher needs to be handy, as well as a cell phone with the speed dial set to 911 (the emergency response). You may not need any of the above but just in case ....... Play safe.

BP1004 Woop Tongs by Uri Hofi Cut the steel to length (in this case 5/8 x14" to hold 2"square bar). Steel for the tongs is 1045. Woop tongs holding a 2x2" piece of steel. Thanks to Uri Hofi for BP1004 Woop Tongs.