Glenn

If you can not locate one 8" then combine 2 pieces of 6" into one piece of a larger diameter. Your a blacksmith, you can do these things

Ron cross post that under your thread on books also.

You may want to reference Blueprint BP0011 on Rail Road Steels

Reduce the air pipe from 2-1/2" (that is HUGE) to 1-1/4" in diameter (use another pipe). As Ron suggests, place the pipe maybe 1-1/2 to 2" from the bottom of the forge then add fuel to a depth of 6-8" above the top of the pipe.

You do not need all the air that the blower can produce. Disconnect the air pipe from the blower and then just aim the blowers air blast toward the air pipe. You can adjust the air stream to miss the pipe and there by reduce the amount of air going to the fire. Just be careful that the excess air does not blow onto the forge as the air currents can cause additional problems.

Blueprint BP0238 is of a side blast forge. I now lay the brick flat rather than on edge as the depth was not needed. Also look at Blueprint BP0232.

You have what appears to be 4" aluminum dryer vent for a chimney. See if you can find some 6" or even better 8" diameter stove pipe and about 6 feet long. This may mean cutting the opening in the top of the hood larger to accept the larger diameter.

If this forge smokes (all the smoke does not want to go up the chimney) cover both left and right sides between the hood and the forge.

With a deeper fire you will need less air to get the heat you need from the fire. The first image will give you an idea of how hot things can get in the middle of the fireball, and the amount of flame that is seen on the top of the fire. Remember that this has been burning a while and is at working temperature.

Keep us updated on your progress.

That same type thing is caused by grinding sparks so you may want to aim the grinder another direction if that is the reason.

If you have an open forge, try a chimney. If you use a chimney already try adding another section to the chimney to make it taller, and a wire screen at the top.

An air blast that does not blow the coke out of the fire pot will go a long way in reducing hot sparks up the chimney. This may mean building a deeper or even larger fire than you have now.

Photos of your set up will go a long way in explaining the problem. After we see what we are dealing with, we can be more specific with our suggestions.

Karen Lewis, wife of Wayne (Coalforge) Lewis passed away in her sleep Saturday morning, after a long fight with cancer. They had been married 37 years this past July, and have 2 kids and 7 grandchildren.

Funeral arrangements are incomplete at this time.

2 barrels are all that are needed. Build a fire from sticks and get it going real well, then add a little coal at a time, keeping the fire exposed and present to burn the smoke. Usually this is nothing more than keeping a hole open much like a volcano. The fire burns the smoke.

For the cost of a couple of 55 gallon drums and a bag of coal, try the Supercharged 55 Forge. They may be able to smell the smoke but most likely can not see smoke if your careful with fire maintenance.

I have used both single bit and double bit axes. The double bit is for me easier to use as it seems better balanced. As to the wedges, I have use the hardware store variety, and a few home made ones, both metal and wood. As Strine suggested, start with a metal wedge and then use the wood wedges to follow the natural split.

Straight grain wood splits easy. Short sections of wood split easier than long sections. Cut the wood so the forks and knots are cut out as drops. Split the easy stuff first and the forks and knots when you get time.

Don't try to get every piece of wood to split. Some pieces will refuse to split and just laugh at you. This is why you have a chain saw.

Ed has just returned from 5 days in ICU with a severe lung infection. He is back in his room now. Prayers would be appreciated.

A left handed diagonal pein tuned left handed to the point it is difficult to use right handed. Then followed by a 2 pound cross pein that is tuned left handed but not as much, so it can be used right handed.

That is what I know as a single bit axe (top) and a double bit axe (bottom). A pole axe is a weapon much like the single bit axe but on a long pole, often with a spike opposite the cutting blade. But I am sure different names can be used for the same tool in different geographic locations.

Harold's wife called to inform me that Harold Brewer passed away on 13 December. They appreciated our prayers for he did not suffer long like most cancer patients do. Fred Moye

Strip mines remove the top of the mountain to get to the coal and it is left exposed to the elements while being mined. Where coal is mined, and at power plants in this area, the coal is stored outside. Rail Road cars are usually not covered during shipment.

When you see trucks hauling coal they are covered but this is to keep material from falling out and to keep the coal dust from being blown along the route.

When the coal is sent for analysis the BTU rates are higher when the coal is dry (of course).

This is an observation in this local area, and may or may not be the answer to your question.


FYI
A ton of coal is about the side of a pallet and 4 feet in depth (height, tall or whatever).

Bill Gichner's Memorial Hammer-in January 13-14, 2007.

The event is sponsored by MASA at Dave Hutchinson's farm (11006 Lewiston Rd, Cordova, MD). It's on the Eastern Shore in MD about 40-50 miles east of DC. Featured demonstrators this year are Andy Dohner and Zach Noble (Tooling up to make Tools is their theme).

BGOP web site for additional information

Jim my condolences to you and your family. Your on the prayer list.

In researching my earlier comment for the forum, I was told Bouton does not make the 5907 in a shade #5. They do have two styles of a more contemporary design with a shade #5 glass though.

Valentin
I see no reason for you not being able to access the chat, and will have to look into the problem. Thanks for alerting me. Glenn

Blueprint BP0394 Side Draft Forge

Search the site and enter BP0394

Look at Blueprint BP0129 and BP0368

I like the idea. Can you take photos so we can see it?

The take two and make one is a much overlooked solution. And they don't have to be the same size, you can mix and match to make what you need.

I know of blacksmiths that have used the "pipe" from inside hot or cold water tanks that no longer work as water tanks. As Bruce says, it doesn't have to be round, just safe to use.

I just spoke with a safety glasses mfg and they suggested a #3 IR lens for light cutting and torch brazing, and a #5 lens for heavy cutting and gas welding. This is from the ANSI standard.

Those lenses marked IR should provide full infrared protection. The shade of the lens is chosen for the lighting conditions at the work location, or for the work involved. As blacksmiths, we need to see to move about and may require a lighter shade than someone that is at a cutting table all day.

They suggested the safety glasses AND full face protection (shield, hood, etc) if the job was such that the protection was needed. Safety glasses alone do not provide face protection.

There are many different styles of IR safety glasses available, from the old round type goggle, to the wrap-a-round "sunglasses style" popular today, and many more styles to choose form. Each style may be made in several different shades. Usually a welding supply store will have several different choices in stock, or at least the 3 welding supply stores I visited had them. You can usually try them on for fit and see through them in order to choose the shade you need for your application.

The safety glasses and full face shields are both inexpensive items to purchase. There are many folks that can relate stories as to why they should be worn. Bottom line is to use the glasses to protect your eyes. They don't work if they are in your pocket waiting for the "right" time to put them on.

Archie, I am certainly glad things worked out as they did. Take this as a lesson of life and take time to remember it well.

To insure that there are no fires you leave the shop, shovel all the ash and coke into a 5 gallon metal bucket full of water. Don't forget the ash dump and put that material into the water also. When you leave you will know there is 2 inches of water covering the material, and very little chance of fire.

It is then easy to later pour it onto a screen and wash the ash out, leaving just the "good stuff" and clinker. Pick out the clinker and put the rest off to the side to dry and be reused.