Glenn

Look where they would not wear off and remain visible when needed.

The metal for lawn mower blades has been discussed several times as well as what can be done to recondition or reuse them (as lawn mower blades). Think of this from the manufactures point of view, you want a metal that will deform rather than shatter or chip when it hits rocks or other things in the yard. It should hold only somewhat of an edge as you want the public to buy replacement blades if they get dull or deformed.

What type numbers are you going to stamp on the product? I doubt that it would be the number for the steel used. It most likely would be a part number so the proper blade could be provided as a replacement.

Mike try Blueprint BP0320 for ideas on stopping the ringing of the anvil.

Feb 17th, 2007
Prairie Blacksmiths Hammer-in
Jim Pierce Shop
1522 W. E st.
Hastings, Ne.
402-463-0166 for details

September 22-23 - Steele City, Ne
Celebration and Demonstrations at the Historic Blacksmith Shop.
Also the Annual Flea Mkt covering the whole town.
contact Les Ward 402-729-3987 for info.


September 29, 15920 S. 120th st. Bennet,Ne 68317
Jim Vidlack Hammerin, Dave Sloan demonstrating Knife Making.
Starts 9AM Sharp
(402) 782-2074


October 20-21, 2007 Fall Conference
Randy Dacks shop
North East of Grand Island, Ne.
John Crouchet, Marble Falls, Tex is the Demonstrator
Use of the Fly Press in Forgings will be covered.

November Hammer In TBA
Hammer In at the Stuhr Museum
Grand Island, Ne,
hosted by Randy Dack, resident smith

Try Blueprint BP0336 Adjustable anvil stand. Quick and easy till you get one built.

I just heard from Ed (Hotforge) and he said the Doctors are concern about the healing process on his foot. It does not seem to be healing as well as they would like. Prayers would be appreciated.

The only thing he is achieving is to block some arc flash to the face, and maybe a sputterball.

The one that upsets me is to go into a garage or muffler shop and see someone hold only the 2x4 inch welding glass in one hand and welding with the other.

This is followed by closing your eyes and welding, or trying to shield the arc by holding your hand up as if to say "Stop".

You can get a hood with a one shade hood for under $20, or an auto-darkening lens for under $50. The cab fair to the doctors would cost more than that.

DO NOT weld on a 55 gallon drum without removing one of the heads in a safe manner.

If your not sure how to safely remove one of the heads, have someone else do it while you go buy them a burger. Do not stand beside them and watch, because if something goes wrong, BOOM is not a nice noise.

Several folks from your side of the island are members of IForgeIron. There is a group in Perth or there abouts. Come Aussies, give me a hand here.

The IForgeIron Groups Forum hosts the Blacksmiths Association of Western Australia forum. You could post your question there if your that side of the island.

IForgeIron is a world wide site and if you post your questions on the site, your answer can come from anywhere in the world. Learning from a blacksmith face-to-face is the best way to learn. Learning by asking questions is next best.

A quick search located blacksmiths in Cheyenne, Powell, Lingle, Buffalo and other areas. We need to have a little more information so we can get a little closer than just a state address.

Wyoming has a rich history and I am sure many of the state parks have blacksmithing connections. You may want to try the state division of tourism, or parks and rec.

Careful John, she swings a 165 pound hammer (head weight) manually (pun intended). She like other lady blacksmiths have a different vision, and can do things with metal we never considered.

Steve, IForgeIron will provide blacksmithing or metal working organizations a forum on this site if it is requested by your organization. It is a great way to stay in touch with the membership, and promote the group world wide. If the Upper Midwest would like a forum, please contact me.

Welcome to the site.

I curved some copper flashing over a round fuller to create an Omega shape to act as a wind screen on a colonial candle lantern. Great accent piece. Everyone wanted to "touch" it cause it looked pretty. They quickly found that copper gets REALLY HOT when heated by the exhaust port of the lantern.

Split open a copper pipe. 3" diameter pipe will give you just over 9" of width. A couple of grooves down the center of the parent stock may be enough to hold the inlay.

I have made headers from mild steel that have produced a BUNCH of nails with no apparent wear. My nails are started at yellow and by the time the header sucks out the heat, I finish the same nail at low red to black heat.

Practice to get "the dance" down first. This may take several heats so don't worry about it. Form the taper. Play with the amount of material you need to form the head of the nail. Usually 1-1/2 to 2 times the diameter of the stock is a good place to start. Hot cut the stock leaving only a small portion of material left, just enough to hold it on while taking another heat before forming the head.

Set the hammer on the anvil in the proper position to grab it fast. Pull the stock from the fire, put it in the header, give the stock a twist breaking the small connection from the nail to the parent stock. PLACE the parent stock somewhere where it will not get into trouble. Put the header over the hardie hole and with a forceful and direct power blow from the hammer SMASH the nail into the header. A couple of additional blows to drive it home then finish with one angled blow to the N, S, E, and W, and one to the top of the nail to make a 5 flat head.

From there it goes into the slack tub to harden the nail a bit (quenched) and to also cool the nail and shrink it so it just falls out of the header. This cools the header so it never gets much more than uncomfortable warm at the working end.

Nails are fun to make and great practice for blacksmithing. Make 50 nails, each better than the one before, then go back and see where you can improve your technique and timing. After that make 10 hails first thing when you fire up the forge. Those 10 nails are a GREAT warm up exercise to start things off at the forge. By the time you finish, you and the fire both are up to operating temperature and ready to go to work.

Blueprint BP0322 shows you how to make the header.

Look at Blueprint BP0189 and the attached video linked there.

This is not my anvil but I am still going to ask.

The 130 pound Peter Wright that has some damage to the face. The horn, step and face have been cleaned up with an angle grinder, but there is still some damage.

What do you suggest at this point?

What was the purpose of the decorative tin panels in the pie safe?

Was it the lack of available glass during that period of time, or ventilation, or what?

A fellow ask me to replace the weldings leads on an old working buzz box.

What is your suggestion to making the plug in lead longer and how long? Can you gain anything by making this cord longer to save the cost of the welding leads?

What is your suggestions for a good working length for the ground and stinger leads?

Anyone have patterns to make a tin lanterns?