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I Forge Iron


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Posts posted by Glenn

  1. Harris Super Missileweld stick welding electrode 

    Description: Steel Welding Electrode

    The ultimate electrode for welding steels with highest strength and maximum ductility (AC/DC) Assures non-cracking welds on “problem” steels such as high carbon steels; tool steels; stainless steels; spring steels; manganese steels; and dissimilar steels. Super Missileweld is particularly advantageous when the alloy content of the steel to be welded is known. This unique electrode is so versatile that its applications are virtually too multiple in number to specify. For years, it has been a maintenance and repair “stand-by” in every industry throughout the world

    • Use either AC or DC reverse polarity
    • Clean weld area
    • Bevel heavy sections
    • For high carbon steels, a preheat of 400 F is recommended
    • Hold a short arc
    • Run stringer beads
    • Peening will help relieve stresses
    • Let each pass cool and slag will peel off easily
    • Tensile strength - 108,000 psi
    • Yield strength - 76,000 psi
    • Reduction of area - 30%
    • Charpy V notch - 75 ft/# @ room temperature
    • Rockwell B hardness - 93 - 102 HRB
    • Brinell hardness - 200 - 300 HB
    • Elongation - 24%
    • Frictional resistance - Excellent
    • Abrasive resistance - Mild
    • Will not respond to heat treatment


  2. I saw a 55 gallon steel drum to the side of a building and ask if I could have it.  Sure.  Looking closer the barrel was marked motor oil, but the top was hooved up a bit.  Released the bung just enough to release some of the pressure and there was a definite odor of something that could be flammable.  Went back in and ask what was in it and the fellow said oh that motor oil barrel, that is what we used for the racing fuel last weekend.  Don't worry it is empty.

    I no longer trust labels on steel drums as they may have been reused before you got there.  

    Purchasing brand new steel is a lot less expensive that a hospital visit.  The down time, lost time, pain, and should be factored in also.

  3. Or cutting a tank with anything that generates sparks.

    An old water tank that you would think would be safe turned out to be rested on the inside and was full of rust and dust particles in the air. This was just waiting for an ignition source.  I told the fellow to add plenty of water to reduce the  rust and dust particles in the air while I left. 

  4. No one ever said that is the blower has a large output you had to match that size and pipe it directly to the forge.  Use an expandable clothes dryer vent and aim the blower toward the vent opening.  Aim closer for more air and not so close for less air.  You can also split the air stream with a T as suggested and one vent toward the forge, directly or not so directly, and the other vent toward the blacksmith.  A nice breeze on a hot day feels very nice when working at the forge.  

    Be sure the blacksmith vent does not blow on the anvil.  Have it blow so you can comfortably take a step back and step into the air stream.  No use wasting good air. (grin)

  5. If the vise it tight, there most likely is a reason.  Look for any signs of wear or debris being wiped off the parts.  Measure the tightness zones and try to relate that to the problem.  See if you can find any misalignments or bent parts.  Keep everything lubricated, to avoid damage, until you can find the cause.

  6. Maybe related:  When ever you weld, always attach the negative as close to the work as is practicable.   If you attach the negative to a metal work table the arc will jump from the negative lead to the table, from the table to the vise, from the base of the vise to the screw, from the screw to the jaw, and from the jaw to the work being clamped.  That is an electric arc at each point, which may cause pitting.  

    Weld on a project resting on the metal table.  When your finished, the project is stuck to the table by the electrical arc jumping from the table to the project. 

    Ask a mechanic why they disconnect the battery before welding on a vehicle.  

  7. When time to quit, I rake the fire out and let it die while I clean up for the end of the day.  Then I scoop everything that WAS hot up and put it into a 5 gallon bucket of water.  Remember to empty the ash dump.   I sleep well at night knowing that everything that was hot is now covered by 2 inches of water. 

    Next day, give the contents of the bucket a swirl with your hand and the coal and coke will rise to the top so you and pick it up and out. The ash, clinker, etc will sink to the bottom.  Pour the water into another bucket for reuse, and dispose of the ash, clinker, etc.  Lay the coal and coke out to dry and use later.

  8. Nothing is perfect the first time.  It is good as a learning tool in order to make the next one better, and so on and so on, until you have enough practice and knowledge to make one that you like.  Use that one for a while and then make improvements. 

    I followed the instruction on how to make a guillotine fuller exactly.  Two weeks of light use and it was unusable, as in destroyed.  Knowing where the weak points were in the design, and knowing how the things was used, version #2 was built and 3 days later it was on to version #3.  Much stronger (read overkill strong) and with modifications that would allow interchangeable dies (working surfaces) and ways to use the frame for other things.  It is still in use today.

    Do not be afraid to build another one and build it better.  No every modification or improvement will be an improvement, some will make things worse.  It is just part of learning and making the next one better.

  9. We need more information.  Are you going to make horse shoes, do ornamental ironwork, industrial blacksmithing, farm blacksmithing, general blacksmithing, make knives, etc.

    What is your budget?  

    If you are just starting A collection of improvised anvils,  Anvils: A beginner buyers guideThe new price standard for anvilsList of makers currently producing anvils, and other topics should give you some answers.

  10.  In 2019 the Kentucky General Assembly dedicated the Kentucky Spring Seat Saddle as the official saddle of the commonwealth of Kentucky.  Eugene Minihan is credited with coming up with what we call a spring seat saddle,” says saddle maker John Goble. “He learned that he could take a tree—the frame that a saddle is built on—cut a piece of the branch out, and replace it with a leather hinge, and the saddle would be flexible. Today they’re called flex trees. But he was the first guy, as far as we know, that came up with this idea.”

    A quilted seat is particular to a Kentucky stich seat saddle or some plantation-type saddles. There’s some cushion, and you really appreciate that on a long ride. These little raised places will let some air under there, which causes it to ride cool. It also gives some texture that you can ride against. It’ll keep you secure in that saddle; it’s not just a slick seat.

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