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I Forge Iron

Do you need a tray?


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A tray is a place for extra coal, to lay tongs, to place for "extra things", to keep fire from falling out/off.... I would think a tray would be a asset....  But then I do have a tray and use it for whatever I may need it for, can not imagine not having one....

 

Dale

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The "tray", will hold the mound of coal you need to continue feeding the fire. Everything inside the brake drum will be burning as you slowly push your green coal toward the fire it will coke itself. We used to call this "breeze" but seem to have settled on coke. Anyway this coke will be added to the fire pot (break drum) as needed. Coke will provide a cleaner fire with more heat, and less smoke. The mound of coal can also be used as insulation of a sort around your fire if you keep it damp. With practice you can actually build a complete enclosure over your fire for very intense heat. This is sometimes called a "bee hive" used in welding. Also the extra space allows you to rest longer pieces in the fire without having to hold them all the time. Of course if they are too long you need a blacksmith's helper of some kind.

The mower deck will work ok, a little thin but will last for a while as long as you clean out the forge after each use and keep it dry.
Good luck to you Mr Jimmy

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Thank you sirs and or mams, tray it is . I'd like something thicker and have access to to all kind of metal tools but a 1.5 foot square of 1/2 inch at the scrap yard would probably set me back 50-100 $around here

 

Piece of 1/8 (11 gauge) would be sufficient for tray.... No need to be thick... Fire pot is only place where mass counts,,,, I use a piece of 1/8 for forge top with brake drum set into it and it seems plenty strong ...

 

Dale

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It doesn't need to be heavy stock at all. It's not like you're going to be setting anything very heavy in one spot are you? Seriously, unless you're going to be forging things weighing more than 100lbs or so a washing machine lid is plenty. Build a wooden box say 4" deep by however wide and long you like, say 24"x36" to pick a size out of the air. Make a hole to hold your brake drum or better yet just large enough to pass your tuyere iron. ram a layer of clay into the box, especially under the fire pot. make it a couple inches thick because that's plenty and set the brake drum into it to the rim.

 

Let it dry and you're ready to go. Plywood and some 1x4 and you're stylin, all old timey and everything. Oh yeah, some 4x4 for legs, don't forget legs!

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Wow thanks for all the ideas guys wood would have been my last thought. Got a few ideas layn around . My buddy has a ton of thick scrap but I don't want to be that kind of friend . To be honest I have a radio flyer in the scrap pile that would be perfect and fits the angle iron table I have but sadly it'll be a 2 stroke go kart one of these days. Bought some 20 mule borax today too!

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Wow thanks for all the ideas guys wood would have been my last thought. Got a few ideas layn around . My buddy has a ton of thick scrap but I don't want to be that kind of friend . To be honest I have a radio flyer in the scrap pile that would be perfect and fits the angle iron table I have but sadly it'll be a 2 stroke go kart one of these days. Bought some 20 mule borax today too!

 

If its a good steel "radio flyer", I would restore it not demolish it.....

 

Dale

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A lawnmower works just fine with a little refractory and a brake drum. I like a disc a little better though for a firepot. This is mine. Made it a couple of years ago, and I might need to patch the refractory a little in a few months.

 

 

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When I posted earlier I was thinking tray meaning a work table. A 55 gallon drum on end or a washer or dryer caucus works well as a forge work table. The only heat is that from the metal as it cools on the table.

 

If you are wanting a extended forging area, then use caution with the materials you choose. Nothing flammable and try to avoid galvanized or plated metal. This is a general caution for bare metal. Usually 1/8 inch plate with a substantial frame to support and hold it should be enough depending on the type forge and weight of the stock you are using. You can, as others have mentioned, use clay, ash, fire brick or other material to insulate the extended forging area from heat.

 

Just remember to always be safe and build it a little heavy. Look around and you can see many things built to the minimum specifications, that have bent, warped, or failed. Minimums are just that, just enough to get by. Think of it as only buying enough gas for the car to only get to work and back for one day. Or did you buy enough gas to get to work and back for a week and maybe a little extra to make a trip to the grocery store?   

 

The information we provide is based on our forges or our experience. Your forge design and the heat it will produce should guide you as to how to proceed at your location.   

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