How do you make Rivets??

[Ron Hicks]

Ive been trying to make Tongs & want to know how to make Rivets.

I made what I thought was a Header not use If this is right?
1/4 in. thick steel with a 3/8 hole.

I stuck a 2 in. long X 3/8 round in it & left 1 in. sticking above & only heated this end with torch.
It made a nice head but the under side I held on the anvil upset enough not to remove.
Can some one help me
Thanks Ron

[mammooth]

For nail and rivet headers, the hole underneath should be larger than the hole on top. So, if this makes sense, you should start with a 3/8" hole through the 1/4" piece of steel, and them drift the hole from the bottom side with a tapered punch, making the bottom hole 1/8" or so larger than the top hole. That way, you can pund on the top of the rivet without it getting jammed.

Just in case... be sure to hold the rivet header over a pritchel or hardy hole. That will keep the rivet shaft from being upset. (maybe you already knew this). Good luck.

[Glenn]

Blueprint BP0322 shows how to make a nail header. See attached photo for the details of the taper mammooth spoke about.
Blueprint BP1016 shows a tool that could be used to make rivet headers.
Blueprint BP1004 shows how to rivet a pair of tongs.

Anyone want to submit a blueprint specifically addressing now to form a rivet?

[Shane Stegmeier]

You can just cut your rivet stock to the thickness of both of your bosses on the tongs + 3x the thickness of the rivet stock (normal rule of thumb for making a head is 1.5x the diameter of the stock, if you like a larger head you can go to x2 or up to x3, a lot of guys like a smaller head and can pare the length needed to make a head down to just x1 the thickness of the rivet stock.) Then you can make a bolster from 1' of 1"stock that is 1.5 x the thickness of rivet stock, and form the head on the top, then support the tongs, then twist and tap the bolster off the bottom side of the rivet, then you can form the head for that side of the rivet...

[Dutchmancreek]

or...you could just buy assorted sizes of round headed rivets, and save a lot of time. I have made most of the rivits I've used but I was given a handful of the commercial variety and will probably buy more in the future. I like 'em.

Steve

[Ron Hicks]

Thanks Guys
I wasnt for sure about length and was going 2 X thickness of rivet
I forgot about the Hofi jig & thats what I will make
I would like to buy some rivets and will look for them.

If I were to make a rivet header is there a rule of thumb to go by to make the head size?
Thanks
Ron

[evfreek]

Hi Ron. Making your first set of tongs is a pretty abrupt introduction to making and setting rivets. When I made my first set of tongs, it was under the watchful eye of an instructor. He told me that I did not need a nail header, rivet header, bolster, or upset head. All I needed to do was stick a heated mild steel pin through the two tong halves and set both ends on the anvil simultaneously. Of course, it did not work. First you have to push the pin through so that an equal length is protruding on both sides. You do this with the pritchel hole under the tongs so that the pin will go through, else it will upset against the solid face of the anvil. Sounds pretty obvious? Not when you have a hot rivet in the pickup tongs, and you are in a rush :-0. Once I got past this snag, things went well. Refrain from hitting the rivet straight on more than once or twice, since it will only upset in the hole and make the tongs too tight. Instead, spread the head with off center blows delivered with a ball pein hammer.

The rivet lesson was eventually successful, but many failures followed when I did this by myself. Obviously, many details were left out which proved to be essential. The failures all were the same general category: the control of the rivet shank was lost when trying to simultaneously put the heads on both sides. In fact, despite my best efforts, I was never able to duplicate the success of the lesson. I have attempted to rivet many tongs and other things from that time until now, and although I have failed on almost every one using this initial method, I have always been successful some other way.

Here is why the "double header" method has been so unreliable. First, it is really easy to get the rivet off center. The fit in the hole must be precise. As I think back to the lesson, more time was spent drifting the hole than setting the rivet. The fit had to be perfect, and it had to be perfect when the pin was hot and the tongs were cold. A piece of stock was not adequate. It had to be slightly upset to produce the correct fit. Second, the amount that the pin stuck out on each side was critical. It had to be aligned so that the correct amount protruded on each side. If a little more poked out of one side than another, the method was prone to failure. Third, the length of the pin was critical. I suspect that the old 3X rule did not apply here. 3X or 1.5X the diameter sticking out on both sides was too much and prone to bending over. Once the pin bent over, it was extremely difficult to correct. I suspect that 1X is better. Fourth, any gaps between the tong half's was harmful. Often the pin would choose to bend in this area. If this happened, the job was very difficult, or even responsible to correct. In retrospect, the pair of tongs made using this method, even though initially considered successful, had an inordinate amount of slop between the half's after rivetting.

Try this method if you'ld like. It is advisable to start with scrap. It has the advantage that no tools are required. It has the disadvantage that it is prone to failure if you are not really careful/skilled.

Here is another method that has worked well for me. Use a pre-made rivet. Do not forget to cut it to the right size with either a hacksaw or the Hofi jig. This is an excellent blueprint. Use a bolster block in the vise with the correct shape for the head. Place a hot rivet with the tongs in the hole. Invert the tongs and nestle the pre-made head in the bolster which will have a matching depression. Quickly seat the appropriately sized monkey tool over the unheaded end of the rivet and give it a smack. This greatly improves the fit of the joint. In fact, when showing off, I compare the tongs done using the first method with a pair done using the second. The quality of the joint fit is unmistakeable. Then, head the rivet as above. One or two hits straight on to upset slightly in the hole, then several off center with a ball pein hammer. This method does a nice job. The bolster is made with a junk malleable iron pipe fitting, plug filled in with an arc welder. A bar is welded onto the back to fit in the vise jaws.

There is another way to do this job with a completly different kind of bolster, which I can write up if there is interest. It also has a good track record, but it has two disadvantages. First, a different bolster will be required for each diameter of rivet, and second, the monkey tool does not work as well without modification. But, a commercially made rivet is not required.

A third method is to use the split header as shown above in the photo.

Good luck.

[Ron Hicks]

Maybe I did it worng but it worked & I think the fit is pretty good- it works opens and closes easy and not sloppy.
I made the Hofi tool for the leg vise (BP1016) - and use 3/8 round for the rivet 1 1/2 X thickness each side. I clamped the 3/8 in the vise jig leaving 9/16 sticking above heated with torch and made a head on one end.
I split & drifted the hole to 3/8 then drilled just to make sure.
I went over the insides of the bosses with a file to make good & smooth.
I put the rivet in the tongs and line up every thing and fit the bit to the stock.
I placed heavy paper between & heated the very top of the rivet and made the other head.
I heated with the torch right on the rivet heads to free it up.
It worked slick maybe I just got lucky.

[evfreek]

Hi Ron. This looks like the second method I listed. Great, glad things worked out. Looks like you are on your way :)