johnrgarland Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I'm new to forging. Yesterday I saw a video of about this forge and I built one! I went to a brake shop and got a decent size one from their discard pile. The yahoo at the salvage yard wanted to sell me one for $15 bucks! Parts List is as follows: (hope this isn't posted somewhere further down the list) I credit this guy for all of this - The Brake Drum Forge - YouTube. Blow dryer 2 - 2" x 4" threaded nipples (all black iron as galvanized releases bad gas when heated) 1 - 2" x 1' or 2' threaded pipe 1 - 2" end cap 1 - 2" T 1 - 2" Flange I used concrete blocks as a stand but that is for later. Attach the flange to one of the short nipples to the cross of the T. Attach the other short nipple and to the other cross of the T. Attach the cap to this nipple. It is the catch-all for the ash or clinkers that fall into the T. Only empty it when it is cool or use necessary protection and a lot of caution. Attach the long nipple (pipe) to the leg of the T Attach the flange to the brake from with nuts, bolts and washers. I used 5/16". The holes on the flange may not match many of the holes on the drum. If you can match more than two holes good for you. I couldn't but it still fired up well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I remember when I made one . what I found was you need to oil the nipple and end cap threads so they don't rust together so you can get it off easy to clean it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanR Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Some people have negative comments about brake drum forges but mine works just fine. I used a large brake drum from a truck which is nice and deep and after experimenting with many air sources a friend gave me a centrifugal fan from a disused promotional balloon. The piping is made from 50mm square tubing and feeds the forge trough a 50mm grid of holes drilled in a 10mm thick plate which is screwed to the base of the drum. This gives a good blast enough to easily turn 20mm square bar to a sparkler.The only drawback is there is no work area to rake out clinker and introduce new coke from the side. I will be addressing this issue soon by building a steel frame bench with a top made from 20mm cement fibre sheeting covered with a layer of fire bricks. The drum will be positioned to sit level with the top of the fire bricks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipto Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 I have just posted to the introduction section that I would like a forge and I already have been given the idea from this thread. I even have a brake disc, I have access to steel box section for the frame and air flow. who would have thought that I already had the bits needed for a workable forge. I was thinking i would need fire bricks and all sorts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 I have just posted to the introduction section that I would like a forge and I already have been given the idea from this thread. I even have a brake disc, I have access to steel box section for the frame and air flow. who would have thought that I already had the bits needed for a workable forge. I was thinking i would need fire bricks and all sorts. Well, isn't that why you joined the bunch? It was to learn all the secret's of the craft like building a forge. Yes? Heck, you don't even have to get brake drum or rotor fancy. To the left in the pic is a yellow thing between me and the pickup truck. It's a 12v Coleman inflatall blower for inflating air matresses, rafts, etc. It's feeding air through a pipe to a hole in the ground with a wood fire burning. I'm using the bed of coals to heat the log tongs I'm repairing using a log for an anvil. This is your first bit of "secret" blacksmith lore. A forge is a fire place. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quenchcrack Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 Frosty, be careful! What ever ya got going in the photo, it looks too much like work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 Frosty, be careful! What ever ya got going in the photo, it looks too much like work! Well, it isn't quite as much work as it looks. If you'll note how I'm holding my tongue you'll know I've found the sweet spot so everything is going smooth as gravy. The leg on the log tong got straightened when a log got hung, then snapped free and gave the tong a big jerk. I had the tong chained to the bucket of a backhoe when it happened. Getting the tong re arched and properly set so we could go back to using the backhoe was a WHOLE LOT less work than moving logs by hand. Besides, I got to build a HOT fire and hit the thing with a hammer. It doesn't get better than that. Oh yeah, I had a proper anvil, tongs and some other basic kit on site the next day. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Frosty is that the same tongue position required to execute a forge weld? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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