rcs7 Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 After several attempts here's the first one I'm reasonably happy with. I still have some clean up to do and handle to make. I'm pretty sure I got the eye shape backwards but not really sure. I don't have a drift to speak of, but I have a large cone shaped chunk of metal that got me close and rest has been file work. I also need to run it thru some kind quench, any suggestions? Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fire4ged Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 I quench my spike hawks in something called "super quench". I found the recipe online. It goes something like this: 1- 28 oz bottle regular dawn dishwashing liquid 1- 8 oz bottle jet dry rinse agent 4- 1lb boxes table salt 5 gallons water mix all ingredients thoroughly it will be a bluish color . As it loses its effectiveness, the color will change to green. I've used this stuff for 2yrs off and on( about 50 spike knives and 10-15 spike hawks) and its still usable. Hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steeltoe762 Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 (edited) this is my first spike hawk, made the eye rectangular and used a modified hammer handle. BTW thats a nice lookin axe, nice curves, real clean lookin. Edited January 19, 2009 by Steeltoe762 failed pic link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcs7 Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 That's a nice looking hawk and a good idea for the handle. I have few pieces of mesquite that I been letting dry, but they aren't quite there yet. I may have to settle for something else. The mix for the quench sounds interesting. What do you store it in? I have a few plastic 5 gallon buckets laying around would that work? Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Hughes Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Here is an article from SOFA Quad Stae Round Up Robb Gunter demoed there in 2007 and made a hammer head and gave the forula for his SUPER QUENCH. I have not used it but some are convinced it works beter than anything else. R O B B G U N T E R Tijeras, New Mexico Robb Gunter began blacksmithing in 1980, under the instruction of Rolando DeLeon in Santa Fe, New Mexico. As he learned more about blacksmithing from Francis Whitaker and others he began to introduce the idea of forging metals as a viable method of producing parts at Sandia Labs. Over numerous concerns he proved to management that forging parts produced, in some cases, superior quality parts and was in fact a cost effective way of doing it. From 1986 to 1993 Robb was the Resident Blacksmith for Sandia Laboratories. During his tenure there he developed the Super Quench for mild and low carbon steels. He taught at numerous regional conferences, recuperative forge building workshops and at threeABANA conferences. In 1986 Robb founded the Forgery School of Blacksmithing and taught classes for beginning and intermediate smiths. In 1993 he left Sandia Labs to devote more time to teaching and pursuing architectural commissions. The school can accommodate 12 students at a time. Robb, and his sons Chad and Brad, now conduct regular basic, intermediate and specialty classes. They also forge and sell many specialty tools and supplies for the blacksmith under the "G3 Tool" name. Robb Gunter Architectural Metals now forges commissioned work such as tools, chandeliers, gates, door hardware, furniture, and railings. Robb demonstrated metallurgy for the blacksmith with identification and forging of junkyard steel. Here is his and his two sons blacksmith school web G3 Blacksmithing Here is the formula for the super quench I am sure you can keep it in those five gallon buckets (got the lids?) Robb Gunter's "Super Quench" 5 gal water 5 lb Salt 32 oz Dawn (blue) dishwashing liquid (28 oz if it says "concentrated" on the label) 8oz Shaklee Basic I* or 7oz UNSCENTED Jet-Dry or other surfactant (like Simple Green) of appropriate quantity for 5 gal mix (wetting agents) The Jet-Dry (or whatever you use for a rinse agent) does something chemically to the surface of the steel. It allows the salt in the mix to start attacking it as soon as it hits the air - make sure you have a LOT of clear water to rinse in ready at hand. These surfacants are wetting agents. They break down the surface tension of water allowing it to make contact with a material. We've all dipped a cold piece of metal in water and seen a bubble-like "skin" form with dry metal under it. This is surface tension trapping a layer of air, it makes a fair heat shield. In a quench, steam will form a similar surface "skin" and prevent full contact with the water, insulating the steel from a proper chill. Wetting agents prevent the "skin" from forming. Detergents do a somewhat similar job, they're emulsifiers allowing oils and water to mix. This prevents any oily residues from the fire from forming a "heat shield" surface layer. The salt in the water raises the specific heat of the water and draws the heat from the steel faster. Stir it up to get it moving before you quench. Don't quench anything with more than 45- 50 points of carbon. Will harden mild steel to Rockwell 42-45 (in spite of common wisdom that says you can't harden mild steel). It's color coded - when you've exhausted the usefulness of the quench, it'll shift color from blue to green. ____________________________________Shaklee.com - Official Site - Creating Healthier Lives Great job the ax lookin good. Good luck with it. Chuck HughesC&C Ironworks - Home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Hughes Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Rcs7 Suggestion: Try next photos with a colored back ground (other than white) for your iron work pictures. I just got the tip lately and it helped out to improve the look of my work. ChuckC&C Ironworks - Home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcs7 Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 Thanks Chuck, I will change the background. Sounds like I need to try out the super quench too. Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerkid Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Looks like a real nice Hawk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcs7 Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 Thanks Hammerkid, The hardest part of the whole process for me was upsetting the end to get enough material to drift the eye. I still don't have a good way to do it. Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerkid Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Been thinking of making a spike hawk my self. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 very cool hawk did you forge weld the spike end or bump up for the eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsilver4 Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 After several attempts here's the first one I'm reasonably happy with. I still have some clean up to do and handle to make. I'm pretty sure I got the eye shape backwards but not really sure. I don't have a drift to speak of, but I have a large cone shaped chunk of metal that got me close and rest has been file work. I also need to run it thru some kind quench, any suggestions? Russell I like the blade shape,but yes the eye is upside down,a teardrop shape the point goes down,but you did good,be proud--Regards Butch:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcs7 Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 Thanks guys. I bumped/upset the end to get the material needed for the eye. I'm not very experienced at it. Needless to say it was interesting. I started another one this past weekend and couldn't get it to budge as far as the upsetting goes. All I could do was get it to do is bend. Probably not hot enough. I'll keep trying. Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcs7 Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Thanks apprenticeman. I notice you make some nice looking knives. I'm hoping to get there one of these days. I have a question for you guys about securing the handle. I see some hawks with handles that pass thru the top and some pass thru bottom. It seems like the handles that pass thru top have quite a bit of material above the top of the hawk. Are the wedges oversized and sanded to match the portion above the hawk. Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dablacksmith Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 most tommahawks have a adz or pick type handle so as you throw it it actually is tightning the handle .. there are no wedges used or needed as the head cant come off thru use . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsilver4 Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 The haft has a taper to match the taper of the hawk drift,so it's a friction fit that is very secure-Regards Butch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.Willis Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Very nice looking hawk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcs7 Posted January 21, 2009 Author Share Posted January 21, 2009 Thanks Butch, I will keep that in mind when i make the handle. S Willis, thanks for the compliment, I really like the hawks you make. They surely give me something to aspire to. Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.