Astro_Al Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Hi folks, I've been lurking for a while but this is my first post. Great forum. I have acquired an old Aldays cast iron forge but it needs a new tuyere/tue iron and bosh (I'll make the bosh, but the tuyere is a little harder!). Glendale forge are out of them for a while, nd the only other source I know of is Vaughans. Does anyone know another source before I have to pay their prices? Also, for the seals am I being stupid in thinking 50 quid for 2 simple circular paper(?) seals is a bit steep? What do you all use to seal the bosh to the tue iron? Thanks for your help, Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Welcome Al. You can build the tue from scratch too, see here: http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f11/english-water-cooled-forge-3643/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 Hi Matt, thanks thats excellent news - should save me about 400 quid. Any idea about seals though? Just use some gasket paper, or hylomar sealant or something? Many thanks again, that link is an interesting read. Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Hi All, follow the link given by Matt, and if you are going to make and weld up the bosh, do the tue too, weld direct to bosh and no sealing problems. We have been using these at Westpoint for many years now, at a fraction of the cost of the bought in ones, just use a piece of 1/2" thick plus plate for the front face of the tue, and it will last years, hole should be approx 3/4" to 7/8" diameter for general work, if you require to heat heavier bars go for 1" to 1&1/8" diameter. Fit a slide valve direct to bosh to control air blast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I have been making side blast forges for the California market. The Tue and bosh assembly is a welded unit with no sea;ls - for ease of manufacture. The tue is made from a length of 6 inch Schedule 40 pipe which is pie sliced for 6 inches and welded closed. The internal pipe is made from 2 1/2 inch ID pipe (for use with hand blowers - less friction) It is also pie sliced to bring it down to 1 1/4 ID at the nozzle. A Donut (cur from the bosh plate) of 3 1/2 inches diameter is welded onto the end of the internal pipe. This is welded to the water carrying pipe. I find that anything bigger than 3 1/2 inches at the nozzle chills the fire. If you care to E-mail me at i'll let you have a PDF that describes the process a little better. The document is too big for posting on the thread (454KB) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce wilcock Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 i have a new cast iron tue iron liying under a bench the only use it has had is as a mandrill to tydiy up some mooring rings .you can have it ,for the cost of carrage ,i will not use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 Guys thanks a lot, again... That is great news that I can fabricate one. I will try to take bruce up on his offer as I have a million things to make anyway, and if that fails or seems uneconomic I'll get to making one. Mark, I will send you an email, thanks. I'll have a whole lot more questions about setting this thing up soon... Cheers, Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce wilcock Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 this is a photo of the tweer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 Thanks Bruce, message sent. Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Farrer82 Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Hi guys, Just to tag onto this thread-I've just picked up a Glendale forge off ebay with a dry tue iron. The tew will need replacing in the next 6-8 months depending upon usage, are the ideas (above) interchangeable with dry tuyeres? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 ive just had 10 cast.... exactly the same as Vaughns largest size. My price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 heres the dimensions, drawing might be useful if your making your own aswell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Hi guys, Just to tag onto this thread-I've just picked up a Glendale forge off ebay with a dry tue iron. The tew will need replacing in the next 6-8 months depending upon usage, are the ideas (above) interchangeable with dry tuyeres? Whereabout in the UK are you? and what shape/size is the fitting? Alldays and Onions had flat backs and radiused backs. With a dry tue iron, if you are going to convert it to water cooled you will need a water tank as well as the above casting. See earlier threads in this posting for designs, make sure your tank is large enough to cope with your needs We have a part used dry Tue Iron wih combined breastplate in our workshop for sale, Blacksmiths Guild Home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Farrer82 Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 (edited) Hi John, I'm located in Mickleover, Derbyshire. I have a Glendale-made forge (Item No 1410) and the dry tue has a radiused backplate which is flat without a breast plate. I think the Glendale item number is 1426. I'm intrigued by the water cooled tue concept, but I think it's a case of try/wait/see. Thanks for your answer! Update!! I phoned Derek at Glendale, who's competitively priced at Edited September 9, 2009 by Farrer82 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 this would be a heck of a deal if you wanted to build a forge to last a lifetime (no connection to the sale!) ebay UK number 300345628597 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen Furley Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Hi folks, I've been lurking for a while but this is my first post. Great forum. I have acquired an old Aldays cast iron forge but it needs a new tuyere/tue iron and bosh (I'll make the bosh, but the tuyere is a little harder!). Glendale forge are out of them for a while, nd the only other source I know of is Vaughans. Does anyone know another source before I have to pay their prices? Also, for the seals am I being stupid in thinking 50 quid for 2 simple circular paper(?) seals is a bit steep? What do you all use to seal the bosh to the tue iron? Thanks for your help, Al. I was looking at Vaughans site this afternoon, ant it struck me that most things there seemed rather expensive; the tuyere gaskets in particular. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irnsrgn Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 For those wanting to make a dry tue iron using stainless steel, the 310 series if I remember correctly is what is used in the large natural gas fired forges at the hammer factory here, For those of you who use Coke and have a hard time keeping it lit when idling, I have used Coke and coal in my shop forge and I had no problem keeping the Coke burning for up to a half to 45 minutes without air, as my electric blower is on the floor under my forge pot and natural convection of air up thru the fire kept it going, if you are using a hand blower that is above the fire, just open the ash gate at the bottom for natural convection to keep your fire from going out when idling. for those with a power blower and a side blown forge using a blast gate to contol air, just drill a 1/4 or 3/8 hole in the center of the blast gate and enough air will get thru to keep coke going for quite awhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackSmithBear Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Keep looking on Ebay, there's a guy selling tuyere's, and under the fire grates. Pretty reasonable prices too. Bear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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