Hook rack (key rack, coat rack, etc)

[Shainarue]

So, I have an idea sketched out for a hook rack that (hopefully) resembles a tree branch.

I can give more details/images of sketch if needed by my first question I think is pretty basic in regards to how things function.

I want the 'back plate' (the part that attaches to the wall) to be flat against the wall but round facing the person. If I start with a round bar and place it into a round swage and hammer the top flat - would that effectively give me what I'm after? It seems logical in my head but I won't have a lot of time to play around with what works and what doesn't by the time I get back from vaca and start working on this. 

The other consideration I had was cutting a pipe in half lengthwise, then tack welding a hanging bracket to the open backside (the kind with the large hole that slides into an oval so you just slide the piece onto the screw rather than screwing into a hole on the piece). I'd prefer the solid bar though, because I'm going to use tenoned joins for the hooks and I can't quite imagine trying to hammer a tenon into place from the backside of an openfaced pipe, lol

[BillyBones]

Yes. 

I make door handles and bales for chest handles like that. Round bar in a swage, back is flat while the round part faces you. Smaller scale though.

However the weight factor of using solid bar. I think i would use a piece of flat bar texture and taper it some, then put in a round swage to get that "pipe half" kind of thing. As far as setting tenons it is not to difficult if you use like a top rivet header i would think. Or maybe a split tenon where a slot is cut and spread with a chisel. You would not be able to see the tenon from the back so splitting is the way i would go.  As far as mounting, i would taper one end so that is is narrowed down till the curve is small enough to fit just about flush, drill a hole and screw it in. The other end where the curve is more pronounced and stands proud of the wall maybe a small "Y" shaped piece of solid bar that would look like the branch is growing off of it. Flattened on the back side, does not have to be the whole thing. Drill a hole or 2 where it sits flush and mount it. 

That is the best i can explain what i see in my head. 

Cool idea , now you got my brain juices flowing. 

[Shainarue]

I hadn't even thought of split tenons, thanks! 

I like all of your ideas. I think I'll try the flat bar approach. 

[BillyBones]

Glad i could help. Hope to see the results. 

Be quick though, i have a couple projects i am working on and after those are done i may steal your idea. . JK, but you do have me thinking. 

[Shainarue]

You can totally "steal" the idea, lol

If I get it done, it will be before the 26th cause it's for a trade item at the August meeting. 

[anvil]

I've used flat stock and rounded it quite a bit on a number of things. It creates a nice detail on long strap hinges as well as more strength. Also on switch plates for raising the center and leaving the edges proud and in plane.  Its not hard to round flat stock between the step and the face of the anvil, then put it across the face hump up and lightly forge the edges into plane. 

For your rivets, a long heading tool works. Coil spring with an upset end for the header works well. For hard to get places I have a few that are offset and they work fine.

[Shainarue]

Thanks for the input. I'm hoping to get started on this on Wednesday evening. 

[Shainarue]

Scratch that, lol 

I didn't start on Wednesday because I had another project that needed done first (the paper towel holders in another thread). So I figured I'd work on it this week, since the meeting for this trade item is this coming Saturday. But we're in 105+ temps all week so maybe this trade item wasn't meant to be, lol

I love forging not I'm not trying to compromise my health for it. 

I'll be doing some inside work this week. But when I do start working on this, I'll update!