I was looking around and realized that Kast-O-lite is not an easy flowing type of cement and needs to be packed in order to have good stability and integrity. I need to line the interior of my forge 7"W 6"H and 14in long with a half inch layer of something to make my measurements line up. I had planned on pouring the material in between the Inswool and a inner form. Does anyone have any ideas to accomplish this or should I coat the wool with Satinite then make forms for the Kast-o-lite, fit them in and then pack the gaps? The roof would be too hard to do or at least poses a serious challenge, but the sides and floor would be simple to do.

Thoughts?

Andrew

All depends on your build.  I'm a fan of a removable "face plate" that allows both initial forge insulation and inevitable relining.

My process is to put in full circumference of 2" thick 6 or 8 # density refractory blanket on the shell.  If you want more insulation thickness for added efficiency you can pleat this and get even thicker insulation.  Then I spray the surface of the insulation with a solution of fumed silica to stabilize it and keep it from crushing during the casting step.  Set vertically with the front opening up and prepare removable forms for the inner cavity (sonotube or rolled vinyl) and burner opening (pool noodle, plastic cup...).  Then I mix up the castable refractory insulation and cast the back wall.  While that is starting to set I place the inner form and pack in the walls.  I think 1/2" thickness is a little hard to achieve, but 3/4" works well enough.  Use the rest of your mix to cast a face plate with a door opening, front and rear doors (you prepared frames for those, right?), and if any is left over cast some 1" thick tiles that can be placed in the forge as removable floors for when you forge weld with flux (cardboard forms are fine for this).  Wrap castable sections in plastic so they dry slowly.  Follow manufacturer's directions for drying and slowly heating the new liner.

About three years back I read an account of how someone with the handle ForgeBoy used vibration to help him get smooth solid results with thinner refractory castings; just a thought.

A variable speed sawzall makes a great vibrator.

You can make a vibrator by putting an oversized washer on a bolt, locking it in place with a couple nuts. Chuck it into a drill motor and it will shake the nerves in your arm numb. I drilled a hole in the wood form's base so I could insert the shaker. This conducts all the action directly to the form and only vibrates your hand and drill motor.

Work yourself up if you try this, a 3/8" washer on a 1/4" bolt was a hard shaker. A 1/2" washer on a 1/4" bolt will shake the drill motor right out of your hand as soon as you pull the trigger. More is NOT better!

Frosty The Lucky.