jlpservicesinc Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 Wow thats awesome. I'm not sure what those 2 extra holes are for either.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDW84 Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 I need some lead to punch the holes on. I’ll let you know how it turns out when I start putting it together. Don’t care a bit to make up a set for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 Well that is very generous.. Thank you.. Something to keep in mind.. These forges were put together without the fine tolerances we think of today.. Basically some parts were drilled while held in place or in jigs that were lack luster.. So just be careful when putting it back together. The person who fixed the forge before I got it put the firepot in backwards.. Why?? Not sure.. I watched how things aligned and did the round and round as I tightened fastners checking for binding. In the way back they used a lead putty that would stick together with pressure from the flanges.. When I did my trial run there was smoke pouring out from every hole I missed.. Do you have a recommended RTV for flat seams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDW84 Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 No worries, I work on a plethora of things, some pretty old! What are you wanting to RTV? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 The lead based putty is a no go. That stuff was amazing. Use it to stuff all the long flat joints. The system uses vacuum and then all the gases are pressurized. Any gap spews smoke. Looking to seal up every crack, seam or hole possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDW84 Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 The faces of my flanges are pretty smooth, I’ll have to see how these gaskets do. Like you said put it all together and then start tightening things down. Humm, I wouldn’t be opposed to leading leaky joints. They do make a non lead alloy for people who like to use metal body filler like they used to do. A high temp Rtv, I do have some loctite sealants too. Just got some hot blueing a few of the bigger original nuts and bolts. I just looked, loctite makes a high temperature putty, but I’d say a good high temperature Rtv would work fine. I know the recirculation line will get hot but shouldn’t exceed what a good sealant can withstand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 The Loctite high temperature putty works very well. I used it to patch a crack in our propane furnace heat exchanger. It lasted about 5 years when the exchanger developed another crack in a different location and we had the furnace replaced. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus 17 hours ago, JDW84 said: I need some lead to punch the holes on. I usually use the end grain of a piece of 4X4 or 6X6 wood to use as a backing for all my punching like leather work and automotive gaskets. It helps in keeping the punches sharp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDW84 Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 Yeah these gaskets where they have the stainless in them, does better on something a little harder. The wood gives too much and the gasket kinda starts to delaminate. The lead is soft enough that it won’t damage the punch if you go easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryFahnoe Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 JDW, curious about how the blade in that Allpax gasket cutter does with the stainless in the gasket material? Looks like a pretty robust gasket cutter! --Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDW84 Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 The stainless is so thin the razor cuts through it no problem. There’s some similar material that has a little thicker metal in it and it’s a little tougher to handle with the hand cutter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDW84 Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 Well got almost everything together, the only thing holding me out that I don’t like is blower outlet flange is about a half inch offset to lining up. Also the blower to the gearbox needs some spacers between it to keep things from being in a bind. If I’m not mistaken when I took it apart about 2 years ago it had washers stacked in between the blower and the gearbox on the bolts. I’m thinking I’ll make a 3/8 spacer and another gasket to get the 1/2 at the flange going to the tuyere. This should move the flange at the blower over 1/2 into alignment. When I originally took it apart the flange that bolts to the fire pot was broken, and looking at this now it was probably in a pretty bad bind originally. I may use the 2 pieces of the gasket material or make a brass spacer to go in between the blower and gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 great job. the alignment issues you speak of are normal and the reason why I mentioned slowly tightening the bolts.. If the upright venturi or stack blower is centered in the hole you might be able to angle it some towards the blower with a spacer at the tuyere elbow on the firepot. this would give you the needed 1/2" or close. And yes on the spacers behind the blower.. Firms up the connection between the blower and housing. I"m not really sure how they got away with such misalignments at the factory.. I guess that is why these downdraft units had to be special ordered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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