Pigsticker Posted October 23, 2022 Share Posted October 23, 2022 . I was taught to build a forge here. Now I'm stuck with 5" of 1.5" cable and part of a newer burner melted into a hard puddle at the bottom of my forge. Is there anyway to remove the metal. It was literal burn in for new matrikote. If I can just rematrikote over the steel that easy and cool with me. Does burned steel in a forge hurt anything. Does it make toxic air? My last question is about cracks in my mortar layer around the forge opening. I'm worried about the bottom layer of the lining that's kaowool does it escape from cracks. I've got a little one who is great company. Thanks for any info. I hope this is a real place to post. I'm heeding mod42 advisement Tx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Your forge must be running pretty hot to melt steel. I would try and chip the burnt steel off then patch the Kast-o-lite and the Matrikote should patch the cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 Thank you very much for your advice. If I just cover up the metal and cracks w matrikote, will there be any poison smoke from burnt steel? It's seems firmly stuck to the floor. I have no kastolite left or matrikote. I could definitely live with just buying 1 more baggy of matrikote. I've been concerned about how much trouble spews out from those cracks, it seems as if they'd break ofter Thanks I now know my forge gets hot "enough" Didn't realize i melted the burner until I saw it in the picture Tx again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 My forge and a friend's forge have both melted steel accidentally. His because it was insulated so well; mine, well the lining was do to be replaced; but students tended to be very very hard on the kaowool. So I was putting the reline off and just cranking up the propane regulator to keep the interior hot enough to forge. Well I finally broke down and did a total reline; but forgot to turn the gas regulator back to it's "normal" position...I put a billet in and got to talking with someone and lost track of time and when I went back to check on the billet it was a nice puddle of molten steel. You fitting may have been cast iron which melts way lower than steel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 It's funny you bring this regulator thing up. My forge appears to have one too. It runs fine at 2-3 psi but this was at 13.5-15psi. Do you use that regulator thing to adjust heat? I was barely opening the tank for red flames and the cutoff to. Never considered regulator. What's a good psi or size flame out of the forge when rolling. I looked for the steel I was burning around my basement sure I'd not taken it out and left it to the side. Checked everywhere Thank you I even lost 3 brand new k26 bricks to breakage? They weren't falling over and they weren't broken when I set them down but they were when I picked them up Tx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 And thank you tp, you told me to hit it. it ran through my head the other night made and sense. when I was hot enough to weld it finally so I hit it. I'd spent months working on the light tap but this was like molten metal and it take some blows just fine. I wasn't coming up with anything and then I remembered " hit" it successfully. There's a huge difference in hot and cold metal Tx Autocorrect is a murder. I'm unclear enough Tx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 Anybody know what size burner I need to replace this one? It the smallest size ( I assume) for a 5x7x9. Many thanks yal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Did you have the burner nozzle IN the forge? I thought we went over keeping is pulled back as far from the chamber as possible. That's why your burner melted, they're cast iron and have a melting temp a few hundred degrees lower than steel. Remember also you can turn it down as Thomas points out above. Cable is made up of individual strands and so conducts more slowly than a solid bar, when you hit the outer strands with a super forge temp they will melt before the strands below are hot and the center might even still be relatively cool. The remains of the last piece of cable is the same so if you decide to warm it all up again to try picking it out of a softer HOT liner you'll need to heat it slowly, et it soak at red for a while before turning the burner up and bringing it to orange and letting it soak before turning it up and going for yellow. By a while I'm thinking 15 mins+ per soak. Welcome to the club, I think most everybody here running a propane forge has cemented something to the forge floor. Next time the cable starts to crumble get it all out while it's HOT. I have no idea what covering the debris with Matrikote will do but the debris will still have a much lower melting temp than the Matrikote and could cause issues, say an old piece of cable welds itself to the next billet. Hmmm? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 Now that I've built the forge thicker, I've only got about 4" of burner room. I still have to weld my stuff. In all honesty it was probably as much duration as heat. It was never on my radar. Sorry so slow in posts today Many thanks for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 I just remembered several broken firebricks I found yesterday. I could definitely one lay one over the steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 ,This is the one really chipped side where blanket is exposed and the other is to show burner in relation to hole. I can't go any higher because I built up around the chimney like it said to. is this forge ok to use with a plan for fixing it in sight or has the young lad been hurt Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Yes you can patch it. Was the burner really that far into the forge? Or do you have to shove the burner into the forge to remove the bell reducer you're using for a flare? Almost the entire "flare" should be outside the forge shell with just the tip penetrating just a tiny bit into the liner. Remember that for the next forge build, it makes a big difference. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Wasn't one of your questions about burner size for that forge" I would say that a 1/2" "T" burner would be plenty large enough, and the 1/2" size isn't hard to find parts for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 Thanks guys. will this 1/2" Burner go on exactly or will do I need adapters. I was also gonna have to cut the existing venturi tube out. Just get the same size of any material? The old burner is stick to it and won't unscrew. I don't know the names of the venturi parts, but the fuel tube goes through the forge walls and then I screwed on a burner, and then used set screws to hold the tube in place vertically . I packed refractory on the top of this burner cause everything said it pack it too to save. If I cut all that out of place, will the forge be ok to burn again without kaowool attention. Many thanks for helping guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 24, 2022 Author Share Posted October 24, 2022 I just figured out the burner is everything between fuel line and actual fire. Ok and any burner will fit too. Right? thanks Mikey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 25, 2022 Author Share Posted October 25, 2022 nevermind, I broke down and bought more kastolite and matrikote, ( I found small quantities at least.) The whole kaowool thing has me watching out for my little one. I think I know what the answers are. thanks thanks for size help on venturi too. I'm going with stainless because it melts slower and I'm gonna reread 101 for a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 You're welcome, PS. Changing out to a bigger burner size is always qyute a hassle, but going to a smaller burner size is no sweat. Qyyte? What is that? I meant "quite." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 Isn't qyute the Seattle name for a Scandinavian coyote? You can take a breath pigsticker, the solution is as simple as a 1/2" burner and you have experience making those. It gets easier as you go. Honest. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 25, 2022 Author Share Posted October 25, 2022 The one I ordered is 130k btu burner. The burner I'm replacing is 100k and it melted a little puddle of steel on my new forge floor. Matrikote was expensive but if I steelkote something it's for free apparently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 I find BTU ratings are misleading and confusing like everybody comparing psi. Too many people selling burners just throw the numbers out there as marketing. Without context they don't do much good even if they're correct. However did you think this through? The 100k burner melted your work, itself and damaged the forge and the one you ordered to replace it has 30% higher output. You might want to put the new one on the shelf until you build a larger forge and buy / build a smaller burner. Say, 75k BTUs? Sorry for the sidetrack. Do you have access to a drill press? If so It'll be my honor and privilege to talk you through building a T burner, once you've made one it'll only get easier making more. Honest they are as easy to make as I could make them. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 25, 2022 Author Share Posted October 25, 2022 No to drill press. just an impact driver. I was hoping the whole mislabeling of btu might work "for" me. Can't I use the regulator on my hose already and just run it at 3 psi? As usual, many thanks Unless you think 135psi is a bad idea. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 26, 2022 Share Posted October 26, 2022 135psi! Yes, YES I DO! Bad idea BAD BAD!! Heh, heh, heh, good one. Isn't your regulator adjustable? Being able to turn the burner up or down is important, especially making cable damascus. You need the lower temp soak time to get the center hot without burning the outer strands. Do you go to garage, yard, etc. sales? I've picked up regulators and hoses for under $5 at them and passed them on. Tanks too 20lb. propane tanks are almost give aways at yard sales. Maybe a 1/2" sidearm burner will work for you. Hmmmm. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 26, 2022 Author Share Posted October 26, 2022 I have cancelled the 135psi, found a new stainless reducer and got a new pipe on the way. I have an adjustable regulator. Do you open gas 100% and then control temp with regulator alone? Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pigsticker Posted October 26, 2022 Author Share Posted October 26, 2022 Then why wouldn't a 135btu work with regulator on 3 psi. The orders cancelled but building knowledge here and thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 29, 2022 Share Posted October 29, 2022 Yes I control the burner totally with a regulator. Note that unless regularly tested a regulator gauge can be off quite a bit! Comparing PSI between set ups is a loser's game. I tune by eye and by ear and so never worry if the regulator got dinged last rod trip. I think my cheapest HP propane regulator was US$3 at a fleamarket and most expensive was US$35 brand new at the propane supply place in town. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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