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I'm not familiar with that particular propane regulator, but suspect if the max pressure it will put out is 37 mbar (0.5 psi) you will never get the velocity at the mixer orifice to entrain any air.   A 0-30 psi adjustable regulator is typically what is needed. Your air choke is closed as well, and that won't help, but the first step is likely to get a proper regulator.

Other problems: ceramic wool insulation doesn't appear to be sealed, no top (lid), questionable material for forge body and burner (is it galvanized?).  Clearly you purchased a budget piece of equipment.  Does the manufacturer provide any support at all?

BTW, you have this in the wrong section of the forum, and may not be seen by folks who are looking at melting furnaces.

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Welcome aboard Marian. If you put your general location in the header we'll be better able to help you, many issues are location specific. 

Only a couple of those pictures are of any use. The fuel tank doesn't help, lots of pics of things we don't recognize is pretty un-helpful. A gauge that say hi low is of limited use.

First, as already noted your melter is bare ceramic fiber and poses a breathing hazard, the lose fibers especially after being heated WILL be blown out of the melter and WILL float around in the air you breath. They can cause lung problems like mesothelioma and similar diseases. 

Open the choke on the burner, the one really useful pic also shows a flame that is NOT getting enough combustion air. Combustion air is entrained by being drawn into the burner through those holes in the side the choke is blocking. Open the choke and turn up the pressure.

Lastly your crucible can NOT just be plopped in the melter. There IS a plinth on the melter floor isn't there? It should be centered in the chamber to hold the crucible off the floor so flame can circulate under the crucible. The crucible needs to be centered in the chamber so flame can circulate AROUND it.

Sitting against one wall of the chamber as shown means the flame will be directed straight up and out of the melter. Even a good HOT flame will not stay  IN the melter long enough to heat the crucible except where the flame exits the burner port and hits the crucible directly. figure MAYBE 20% of one side and none of the bottom.

The issues with your melter may be a matter of adjustment and knowing how to use a melter but it has other safety issues you REALLY should address first.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Presumably in the UK?

"PatioGas" is a proprietary Propane cylinder that uses a clip-on, non-adjustable low-pressure regulator. With its lower boiling point, Propane will work at lower ambient temperatures and higher take-off rates than Butane, so is quite popular for things like patio heaters. However, there are no high-pressure regulators available for patio gas. It is not just a case of upgrading the regulator: you'll need to change the cylinder too.

Forges need the female-threaded cylinder connection found on 47 kg, 19 kg and 13 kg cylinders, so you'll need one of these.

You can usually exchange any cylinder for any other cylinder within the same group, on the basis that the cylinder deposit was paid on the first cylinder. I'm pretty sure that the Patio Gas used to be in the same "group" as these, but has since been put into a group on its own (I think it's just so the money-grubbing slimeballs can make more money). If you have the original paperwork for the Patio Gas, they'll refund the deposit and take a deposit on a fresh cylinder. If you've not got the paperwork, they'll want a fresh deposit on a Propane cylinder with a threaded connection. 

If it looks like you'll be getting charged for a new gas agreement, it is worth looking at Flogas, who are the other big UK bottled gas supplier, for comparative prices. 

My preferred cylinder size is 19 kg: lasts longer than the 13 kg but is still easy enough to move. 13 kg is stocked in more places though.

For your new regulator, search for a "plugged propane regulator" on ebay or at a local welding supplier. 0-2 bar (0-30 PSI) range is probably best. The plugged regs have a plug instead of a (fragile) Gauge. They are designed for use by welders, so are pretty rugged, have big adjusting knobs that can be finely adjusted by hairy-arsed individuals wearing gloves, and have the pressure-setting markings on the body. While the markings are not as accurate as a good gauge, they are about as good as most of the cheap gauges fitted to regulators as standard and are plenty good enough for our purposes. Expect to pay around 25-30 quid. There are cheaper regs about, but I feel the plugged welding regs are about the sweet-spot on the price vs performance/quality curve.

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