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I Forge Iron

Anvil identification please.

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I came across this ad for an Anvil with misc tools for $200. I have not seen and Anvil like it.

things to note in identification, with this only photo,

no numbers, size or brand. Looks to be about 100# or less

note narrow base or foot.

single oversized Pritchett hole in place of hardie hole.

looks to be cast with horizontal casting part line and hard face top forge welded on or in casting?

anyone seen something like it?



Darn. Just sold out from under me. Still, a strange make and model.

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Darn. Just sold out from under me. Still, a strange make and model. 

Thanks Thomas,

i only had the one picture and was unfamiliar with the shape of the foot and the solo Pritchett hole centered in place of the hardy hole. At this point, since the Anvil has been purchased by another party, now I’m just curious about the brand.

I’ve used the rebound test on my working anvils. I’m getting close to 100% rebound on first bounce, then 95%, 90% etc. hard to measure a moving object. Now imagine holding a camera set on slo motion capture, a tape measure and dropping a large ball bearing onto slightly uneven surface, then catch the ball bearing before it  shoots off the side and rolls under the drill press.

Rebound test should be performed by a circus juggler.

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There is actually a tool made to measure hardness using rebound , the Scleroscope, it does the bounce inside a graduated tube to avoid the "shoots off the side and rolls under the drill press" effect.  It's only the first bounce we are interested in and unless you have a reactive anvil face, it has to be below 100%.

Anyway if you are interested in a USING anvil then the bounce and ring test should give you enough to go on.  Even a top of a line brand anvil can have been softened in a fire and paying top dollar for the name is like paying new price for a totaled car!

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Funny looking thing, isn't it?  Definitely looks like a "real" anvil, but maybe one that was heavily modified.  Honestly, looks like somebody took a Trenton, chopped the bottom inch or so off, welded a couple of feet on either side at the bottom, and drilled the hardy out, stopping only to flap disc the heck out of the horn.  I'd take it, but I'm a sucker for abused and mangled anvils.

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