TrailblazerForgeCo Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 (edited) Ladies and gentlemen, Love this forum. I’ve recently received a cast iron forge but it was taken apart and I was unable to see how it was put together. Can somebody explain how the grate interacts with the tuyere and clinker breaker on this version of forge? The ring is broken as you can see and I don’t know if or where I could find something. If I put the grate on top of the ring then it sits higher than the table. It doesn’t seem to go below the table because the tuyere attaches to the table in a specific way that doesn’t permit it to attach. There are two bolt that’s supposedly go through the top of the run through the table and attach the tuyere. Any thoughts on how to proceed? Edited October 16, 2020 by Blacksmithium Added photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 The grate is not used when you have a clinker breaker (triangular piece on the rod. The round cast iron pieces with the bolt holes were used though. Your layout is 2 piece rounds on top with the assembly below. Looks like orignally it was filled with plaster of paris or a good yellow clay. which these forges are supposed to be filled with to use them properly. the split 2 piece round was orginally 1 piece and has since cracked. this was sandwiched between the clay and cast iron forge pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailblazerForgeCo Posted October 17, 2020 Author Share Posted October 17, 2020 Thank you. Very helpful. Can’t wait to get out to the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 Welcome aboard, if you are near me, I could stop by and offer some help with the forge. As Jennifer said, it needs to be clayed to prevent the cast iron pan from cracking due to thermal expansion and contraction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welshj Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 From my research, the lining with clay to a decent level will cause the bottom of the forge to be higher than the grate. I have yet to line my rivet forge... as I have to repair it first. Line the pan with clay... trust me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 Mine has a crack like that and I use it anyway. Yes, claying the forge will put the grate below the level of the clay. Slope it down in a shallow bowl, these forges do NOT have fire pots. I use a few hard firebricks to shape the fire to the size and shape I need for what I'm doing. It's my preferred type of coal forge. I'm not really a fan of firepots but I'm kind of odd. DRATS, I can't think of the name of the forge type. <sigh> Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailblazerForgeCo Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 Thanks for the replies. What type of clay do you recommend? I got some stuff from Home Depot but don’t know the name off the top of my head. It requires heating it up slowly and I am also at a loss for how to heat it up slowly without it cracking and it’s soft enough that I can’t build a fire on it without the fuel smooshing into the clay. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 You thinking of the "ducks nest" fire pot Frosty? On 10/17/2020 at 3:46 AM, Blacksmithium said: Can’t wait to get out to the shop I see you are from East Lyme CT. I spent 3 years on the Lynde Point Light Station in Old Saybrook and made many trips to East Lyme a lovely place at the time. As far as clay if you let it dry for a while then just build a couple of small fires it should be OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailblazerForgeCo Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 We LOVE it here. US Navy brought us here and we most likely will stay here. Taxes are really my only complaint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 I was editing my post when you replied. To help the clay you can mix in some builders or play sand as grog which will make it like adobe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 Ducks nest firepot was the first thing I thought of as well. A slotted grate can be used with a clinker breaker if it's one of the ones designed to fit into the slots when twisted. A ball/"wankel" shaped clinker breaker is used without a a grate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailblazerForgeCo Posted October 20, 2020 Author Share Posted October 20, 2020 So I tried it with the clinker breaker and no grate and then switched to no clinker breaker and the grate which is what I think I’ll like better. I then put refractory cement around the hole (pardon the sloppy work). Problem is getting it to set up slowly while controlling the heating without cracking the cast iron. Can I build a fire underneath and get it to set up that way or should I build a fire around it in the pan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 The main thing is to not rush the drying process. Drying the refractory too fast will cause cracking. I would not build a fire underneath the pan. The refractory should be very stiff (not wet). Cheap non-scented kitty litter is made from bentonite clay and can be used. Also the entire pan should have a layer of clay to prevent the cast iron from cracking. This thread should help with the process and a picture of a pan that has the clay lining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 Duck's nest, yes. I blanked completely on the name. I was replying to another cast forge plan thread and had it written down before I thought about it. Do not make mud, almost any clayey dirt will work just fine. If you have clay 3 parts sand to 1 part clay is just right. The sand allows steam to escape and the clay a little room to move as it expands and contracts with thermal cycles. I just shovel it in, smooth it around and hammer it hard with a wooden mallet. I have an old dog food dish that's just right as a core over the air grate and makes a nice duck's nest. These things were portable and the smith would just shovel dirt in, dampen it and ram it hard. The special stuff is actually worse than plain ditch dirt and sand or whatever you have for grog, crushed bricks work a treat, they don't melt into glassy clinker. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailblazerForgeCo Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 Thank you to all who responded. I am going to play with it today. I'll post an updated pic when I get it to harden and first use! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.