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I Forge Iron

My new(old) workshop


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Yes. A chimney will be installet at some point. I just don't feel like drilling through the wall or roof until I know how I want the workshop layed out. Currently I'll be running a flex tube out the window.

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I made my forge out of an old fireplace and the "chimney" on it is 180mm(about 7 inches). I think it's overall easier to go out through the wall than the roof. I will most likely make a gas forge in a smaller dimension to have outside. A bit more portable than the forge I have right now hehe.

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Beautiful workmanship on the shop, I think it is perfect for you are interested in doing.  Good job on reusing material, we help mother earth every time we find a way to avoid waste.  And, your shop comes complete with some history attached.

Just noticed the comment on coal smoke.  Because you are using steel siding, you might want to consider putting your forge against one wall and having the box pass through the wall and the chimney sit on top of it on the outside, that way you don't have a hole in your roof for snow to dam up and possible leaks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Cheers! Will def take a look at that.

I've got some work done in the shop. I got a part of the electric done today. Installed some lights, a fan and an outlet for the bench. Gonna buy some more cable either tomorrow or some day in the week.

I'm not to thorough with the alignment on the cable though so if it's not completely straight it's fine.

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A 7" chimney isn't going to draw very well. 10-12" is a common consensus for producing good draw.  The side draft hood and stack are very efficient, a wall penetration is MUCH less likely to leak than a roof penetration. There are roof jacks and flashing designed to make roof penetrations water tight but it's still a chance.

If you use a side draft hood there is an issue with warming the stack before it draws well. There is a simple solution that's been standard for furnaces in cold country for I don't know how long. The chimney pipe leaves through the wall horizontally with a SLIGHT slope towards the outside. When it is beyond the eaves you install a T fitting one leg straight up the other straight down. Then you extend the stove pipe upwards with proper mounting brackets and wires to protect it from winds. The top of the smock stack needs to be at least a meter above the highest point of the roof within a given distance. These two dimensions will be determined by building codes where you live. 

The leg of the T pointing downwards allows cold air in the stack to fall down and out as soon as your fire starts generating warm air. If the stack just sticks straight up from your forge the cold air in the stack when you light it has no place to go down so the fire has to produce enough warm air to force it up and out. This often causes the hood to smoke and is why so many folks have to light a bundle of paper to get the air drawing before lighting the coal.

This trick works a treat, it wasn't until you started seeing forced air and heat exchanging furnace vents that the T stopped being THE way it was done. At least in cold country it's not that much colder where I live than you.

 Frosty The Lucky.

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