hntr11 Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 Just recently finished construction on my new propane forge, I have it lined with k23 soft bricks on the sides and roof, and hard fire brick for the floor. I decided to line the forge with satanite with plans for a final coat of ITC coating, striving for forge welding temps. I did my best to follow the mixing/curing instructions that came with the satanite but just ended up chasing cracks with every new coat, and actually ended up with an entire section on one side bulging out. Not sure if I had the moisture content incorrect or if I tried to cure it to quick. I tried to play it safe by doing thin coats and made the mix consistency thicker than recommended and took extra care and time when curing and bringing the forge up to temp. Any help would be great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 we have a large section devoted to forge refractory, I will move this there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 I see a couple problems Hntr: First, K-23 IFB are only rated to 2,300 f. max temp and start to degrade at higher temps. We've been seeing K-26 IFBs used successfully in some very hot forges. Am I correct in reading your description that you are using Satanite directly on the IFB and then covering with Kasolite? I haven't seen that sequence used. I see Satanite used as a stand alone hard refractory or as a kiln wash as the final layer in flame contact. How thick are you applying the Satanite? Are you buttering (spraying with water) the existing surface before application it? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hntr11 Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 thank you for the response Yes I am using k23’s on the sides and roof and then hard brick on the floor which I believe is rated to 3k. I saw the same process of covering ifb with Satanite and then itc on YouTube( I’ll post the link if I can find it again). I figured the satanite would offer enough protection for the k23’s, but I could be wrong this is my first attempt at making a forge capable of welding. Yes I made sure to spritz the brick with water on the first coat and made sure to apply thin layers roughly 1/16 inch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hntr11 Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 Would you recommend going with kaowool instead of the soft brick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 (edited) I'm not familiar with satanite but kast-o-lite 30 I believe you should spritz between each layer application and it likes to cure in a humid environment by putting the forge in an airtight container or a sealed garbage bag with a damp rag for at least 24 hrs. If satanite is different someone with experience using it I hope will correct me. As far as fiber blanket goes it needs rigidized prior to applying the castable refractory. A square forge like you've built with IFB lends itself to lining with a layer of ceramic ffiberboard and a coat of plistix on the walls and ceiling at least. I think that would be the simplest way to do it. Pnut Edited November 21, 2019 by pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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