Crunch Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 Hello, all, I did a search and didn't find my answer. I'm always scrounging for steel for my welding/blacksmithing/woodworking projects, and in a pile of refuse from (apparently) a barn that burned down, I found a carbide-tipped 10" circular saw blade. The plate of the blade was warped from the heat, so I'm assuming that any heat treating that the plate had is no longer there – but the carbide teeth were all still on the blade, so apparently it didn't get hot enough to melt the bronze used to attach the teeth – so I'm assuming it didn't get hot enough to ruin the steel. I'm considering using the steel plate to make a scraper for woodworking and/or possibly a plane iron blade – if the steel would be suitable for this, and if I can successfully reharden and temper the steel. (For a cabinet scraper, generally, you file a 45° bevel on the edge, then hone it on 1500 grit until you get a burr, then roll over the burr with a HSS burnisher, and this creates the "hook" that does the cutting when scraping. For a plane iron, typically you might grind it on waterstones up to 4000 grit on a 30° or 35° bevel.) For whatever it's worth, a Google search turned up this page: http://www.harrissawing.com/circular-saw-manufacturing-process/ Which said that (at least for their own blades): "For tungsten carbide tipped saws a high chrome, high carbon steel is used (1075 Cr1). " Anyway, does anyone have any idea what type of steel I might have, and/or how I might quench and temper it for my purposes? Thanks in advance for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 Do a basic mystery steel test. I usually heat a corner to red an quench in water to see how hard it gets. Carbide tipped blade bodies don't need to get hard, but they do need to be tough. Saw blades that do not have carbide teeth do need to get hard. The carbides are silver soldered on, so take a torch and heat one up until you can knock it off, then heat the main tooth to red and quench. Probably work as a scraper, but not as a plane blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 Every maker has their own "special" steel for bi-metal saw blades and it change. Anymore it's purchased to a performance spec, not analysis spec. As Biggundoc says it's mystery steel you gotta test it. You have to test the new stuff. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crunch Posted April 7, 2019 Author Share Posted April 7, 2019 Thank you for the replies, fellas. I'll try heating and quenching to see what I get. If it's "1075 Cr1" as mentioned in the link above, would that be useable for a plane iron? It's a little thick for a scraper... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 I highly doubt it is 1075, and would guess it is more like concrete saw blade bodies that are 4140. I contacted several concrete saw blade companies, and that is what they told me. You won't know until you try it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crunch Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 Thanks again, Biggundoctor. I'll post back up when I know more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 Wouldn't that also depend on how YOU like your plane blades? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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