olfart Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Finally got the fittings to connect my burner to the gas bottle, so here are a couple of pics. First is after it warmed up a couple of minutes at 5psi. Second is at 2psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Way, not even close, too rich. How about a pic of the rest of the burner? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olfart Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 First image is the rest of the burner I was using yesterday. The bell reducer was an attempt to streamline the flow into the mixing tube, but it just didn't work. Even after changing to a smaller mig tip, it was running way too rich. The second image shows the new forge with the burner from my brick pile forge driving the multiport burner head. It made a world of difference when I got rid of that bell reducer. I used it to fire the first layer of Kaowool, and the flame swirl in the forge looks amazing. Sorry you have to hold your computer sideways to view the images. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 I can't see the flames, especially with the bright light behind the forge like that. However it looks HOT in there and I don't see billowing yellow dragon's breath. It looks to be working pretty darned well. How does it work heating steel? Does it hit welding temp? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olfart Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 No steel yet, this burn was just for curing the rigidizer on the first layer of Kaowool. There was no visible dragon's breath in daylight at 5psi. It also maintained a steady flame at about 1 psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olfart Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 Here are a couple of pics after installing the NAMPB and plastering the inside of the forge with Kastolite 3000. First is running at 1.5 psi, second is at 10 psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 Ooooh PRETTY! Looking good. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olfart Posted March 29, 2019 Author Share Posted March 29, 2019 Thanks for your help, Frosty! Couldn't have done it without you and Mikey and all the research and experimentation you did. Today's project was getting the Matrikote applied. I took the burner out so I could paint the face of the burner with it and not plug the holes. Unfortunately my brush looked more like a mop halfway through the project, so it became more a matter of smearing the Matrikote on than painting it on. All's well that ends well, and now the whole interior is coated with Matrikote... and my hands, and my arms up to the elbows. I hope it doesn't have to be artistically beautiful to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kerryd Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 Is there a link to plans for this burner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 Two thoughts for kiln washing the burner block without plugging outlets. First, mix the matrikote a little thin, I like latex paint consistency but. . . Don't worry about plugging outlets, slap it on FAST then blow it clear with an air hose. No, don't use it on the face of the burner block, wrap a rag around the air chuck and tape it to the inlet to the plenum and blow it out. Idea 2, Lay some matrikote powder in a tray, wet the burner block and press it into the powder. Clean the orifices with a tooth pick or swab. Idea 2 is just an idea, I've done #1 and it works. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olfart Posted March 31, 2019 Author Share Posted March 31, 2019 3 hours ago, kerryd said: Is there a link to plans for this burner? 2 hours ago, Frosty said: Two thoughts for kiln washing the burner block without plugging outlets. First, mix the matrikote a little thin, I like latex paint consistency but. . . Don't worry about plugging outlets, slap it on FAST then blow it clear with an air hose. No, don't use it on the face of the burner block, wrap a rag around the air chuck and tape it to the inlet to the plenum and blow it out. Idea 2, Lay some matrikote powder in a tray, wet the burner block and press it into the powder. Clean the orifices with a tooth pick or swab. Idea 2 is just an idea, I've done #1 and it works. Frosty The Lucky. NOW you tell me! No problem, I just used my 1" brush very carefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olfart Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 As Doug Marcaida might say, "It will weld!" My first damascus billet is 11 layers, alternating mild steel and bandsaw blade. Had a couple of small delaminations at the outer end of the billet, probably where it was cooled by the anvil before I got to that point with the hammer. After working it down in thickness by about 1/3, I cut a slab off to make this cross. Next project will be to beat the remainder of the billet round so I can twist it without having the corners make cold shuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 When you open the arms up, forge them octagonal and twist them and then forge them out flat to get more pattern showing. (I'd do the top piece too). Takes a bit more time and skill... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 Ayup I concur Olfart, Eet Weel Weld! Now you get to start playing with pattern development. I textured a yard sale ball pein hammer to make wood grain texture for spread crosses, ala the "Rugged cross". Beautiful cross, I'm looking forward to seeing what else you come up with. I'm thinking I'll give Thomas's suggestion a try myself. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olfart Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 I'm thinking that forging the arms octagonal and twisting may mess up the hole in the cross. It's pretty easy to get the arms out of alignment and distort the hole even without twisting. Thanks for the comments! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 Uh huh. Don't spread it before you twist the arms. You split the bar, then open one half one way the other half 90* for the arms, right? So, decide which end will be the cross member, twist and square it back up THEN saw and spread it. Post has one pattern, crossbeam has another. Hmmmm? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 Or twist the starter billet before you cut it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olfart Posted June 20, 2019 Author Share Posted June 20, 2019 I'm planning to twist the next one before cutting, which will produce more of a random pattern in vertical and horizontal components. It would be interesting to see if I could isolate a twist to just the part that will be the arms, leaving the original straight lines in the vertical and twist in the horizontal. Thanks for the ideas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 I originally suggested twisting the arms as I liked the effect that the vertical lines gave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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