Lee Wehr Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 Hello and good day, ladies and gentlemen! I am an all-around, backyard mechanic, fabricator, tinker'er, etc. I rebuilt a '96 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4x4 conversion, 4.7L stroker, 4" lift, trussed high-pinion Dana 30, 3-link up front, and future plans for a bullet-proof D44HD, 4-link rear and 4.56 gears. I also built several over-powered electric ATVs for my kids; the current project is a Razor MX650 with a 2000w brushless system powered by 60v pb (during testing; then 75v lipo). If there is a "garage project" to wrap my hands (and head) around, I am excited for the challenge. Suscribed to YouTube channels like Alex Steele's and been lingering around IFI and https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/ for a while now. To note, haha - I am not a "product" of Forged in Fire. I watched a couple episodes when it first aired, that's it. Blacksmithing is always something I've been intersted in, just never had the means to get into it until now. I had an old propane tank sitting around so I decided to turn it into a forge. Very simple setup with a welded frame with rollers. I still have to cut a hole for the torch, weld in the support shaft and paint it high-temp I picked up at Lowe's. Thus far, quite pleased with the progress. Couple questions for the vets as I go forward: - Should I cut another hole (access) in the back of the tank or simply keep the single access? Obviously I am not making a sword anytime soon, so I can't see the need for pass through beyond the length of the tank. My question is for heat dissipation - don't need the heat building up so much it blows the access open. - In preparation for the tank itself, I bought some kaowool (1"x 12"x 24" Ceramic Fiber Insulation Blanket 2400F) and 'MEECO'S RED DEVIL 1352 Furnace Cement and Fireplace Mortar' from Amazon. After reading https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/51493-blown-propane-forge-question/?tab=comments#comment-546241 and https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/47439-forges-101/?page=27, I learned I need some fumed silica rigidizer for the kaowool before the refactory cement. Will the Meeco's product work? After reading many posts and reviewed blueprints for home torches, I settled for a design I liked the best. Understand Frosty is the T-burner God, so this design may not be up your alley; however, any input/comments is appreciated. All of the brass plumbing is 1/4" leading to black steel reducers up to 1". The SS flair is 1.25" to 1.5". Currently using a .035 MIG tip as I had a bunch of those laying around. Frosty and Mike recommended a .045 tip in another member's post (for a 1" pipe). Will there be a noticeable difference between the two sizes? Also using a standard Blue Rhino 15-lb tank and 20psi regulator. Pay no mind to the flames coming out of the breather holes in the photo. That was before I made the choke collar; the video is after. I still need an anvil, hammers, tongs, etc. There are rather large antique/junk houses in Bird-in-Hand, PA, about a three hour drive for me. Thinking of stopping in to see what they have. Appreciate your time and help. Looking forward to hearing from you! 20190211_210431.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 Welcome to IFI! If you haven't yet, please READ THIS FIRST!!! 17 minutes ago, Lee Wehr said: Will the Meeco's product work? No. That product is designed for sticking refractory bricks together, not for providing a flame-resistant face. Take a look at the castable refractories: Kast-O-Lite, Mizzou, etc. Lots of good discussion in the gas forges section. 20 minutes ago, Lee Wehr said: I still need an anvil, hammers, tongs, etc. There are rather large antique/junk houses in Bird-in-Hand, PA, about a three hour drive for me. Thinking of stopping in to see what they have. Antique shops tend to charge premium prices; true junk shops can sometimes offer better bargains. Check out your local flea markets, garage sales, etc. Don't wed yourself to the incorrect notion that you HAVE to have a London pattern anvil; check out the improvised anvils thread for some ideas on lower-cost alternatives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Wehr Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share Posted February 12, 2019 First couple questions already answered! Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Wehr Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share Posted February 12, 2019 19 minutes ago, Lee Wehr said: After lining the tank with 2" of kaowool, how much Kast-O-Lite 30 do you think I'll need? Most bags I found online are 55 pounds; can't see needing that much at all. Will something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-12-5-lbs-Castable-Cement/dp/B000H5T5EA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Kast-O-Lite+30&qid=1549989331&s=gateway&sr=8-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 Find a local smith or 2 and split a bag! Look through the improvised anvil thread for inexpensive ways of getting forging without paying the ridiculous prices for anvils nowadays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 2 hours ago, Lee Wehr said: No, that's still not a good match for a forge. First, it's only rated to 2200 degrees F, and you could easily exceed that inside your forge. Secondly, it's a cement. Even though it says "castable" it's still a cement, which means it's good for sticking things together, but not for extended direct flame contact. The suggestions above are what you want in a forge. Wayne Coe is a member here who sells smaller quantities of good forge building materials at reasonable prices. Check out his website or shoot him a PM for more info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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